For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[S. Lowlux]

So far this is what we have.
Complete pump.


Exploded view showing standard shaft & rotors at top.
Standard shaft
Lengthened shaft
Two drive rotors on shaft + two driven rotors. Assembly is in the order shown so that joints between all rotors & housings overlap, to help with alignment.


Oil pump body spacer that I cobbled + 30mm bolts.


Standard rotors on shaft & mods.


Enjoy

Owen.

[S. Lowlux]

Only been reading this forum & a member for a week now & only now did I get to page 140 of this thread # 2797 which led me to the18 R GTE thread whereupon I find that I have just reinvented the wheel. I have only ever seen pictures of the rg factory pump with 30mm gears & spacer, my rg had a 18 rc pump. Did'nt even see the pump at # 2797 just followed on from Toyotas upgrade & my nose using what i had.
Did that pump ever get tested in an engine on the road or track ? If so could someone please fill me in with the results ? Where are they now ?
No further info on the 18 R GTE thread than from 6 months ago, looking for a tester.
Owen.

[o_man_ra23]

They had clearance issues, the person doing the design work is back at the drawing board to fix the clearance problems.

[machschnell]

quick question gods of tech , will a 18 r and 18rg exhaust manifold line up as i can buy a set of extractors for an 18r cheap at the moment and will they fit into my celica with the 18rg

cheers

[roadkill]

Hi,

quick answer - no

different port spacings on the twin cam as it is a flow through head. The rc has inlet and exhaust on the same side of the head

bEn

[damian]

nope, 18RC and 18RG different heads with different exhaust outlet patterns. I've got 2 or 3 RC extractors kicking around, none for RG

[roadkill]

So far this is what we have.
Complete pump.


Exploded view showing standard shaft & rotors at top.
Standard shaft
Lengthened shaft
Two drive rotors on shaft + two driven rotors. Assembly is in the order shown so that joints between all rotors & housings overlap, to help with alignment.


Oil pump body spacer that I cobbled + 30mm bolts.


Standard rotors on shaft & mods.


Enjoy

Owen.

Hi,

I'm glad that someone could put my vision to test! Keen to see how well this all works. There's no reason why it won't just gotta watch the tolerances on everything and should be sweet!

bEn

[S. Lowlux]

If someone could please give me a little more info on the specific tolerance that was the issue then I will know for sure if I am likely to suffer the same.
My drive rotor to driven rotor tolerance is Mr Toyota's standard & we know that works.
The only one that I can see that may be an issue is the rotors to the pump cover.
Too tight + heat = rotors eating aluminium cover.
Too loose = either suction or pressure loss.
Mine has the same as standard.
Driven rotor to spacer clearance is the same as the driven rotor to pump body.
Thinking to assemble with light pematex film on spacer to body & spacer to cover initially, to just add that tad more end clearance.
To my way of thinking the spacer & body materials are the same as each other, aluminium, & the rotors are all of a type of fine grey cast iron, so expansions at operating temp should be the same as normal pumps. I forsee no prob's.
Does anyone know how the Japanese fellows pump turned out ?
Owen.

[roadkill]

Hi,

the guy in the states that was doing it ran too tight of a clearance if i remember correctly. This from memory was in the gears themselves as he made them from scratch. Ie the 4point gear didn't quite mesh properly in the 5 star "loose" gear. I'd say it was only a few thou out. As for yours, the only two potential issues are keeping the 4 point gear perfectly lined up (a fekallth of a degree out and it could end badly) and obviously the gap inbetween the 5 point gear and the ally casing you made. If the part you made is to the same size as the casing you should be pretty sweet. I can't remember what expands more, ally or steel though. Either way as long as there is enough room for it to spin freely you'll be safe.

Just my 2c

bEn

[S. Lowlux]

Yeah thanks ben, just exactly what I was looking for.
My drive rotor, or 4 point gears, line up beaut & the pump spins freely with a little backlash. That backlash translates to clearance in the gears.
Now, I am using second hand pumps with some degree of wear, must buy new pump to check an unworn sample.

Anyhoow, this is all conjecture & the proof will be in the pudding.

I am using the pump with milled off pickup to get the super modified Pajero diesel pickup & screen fitting into my new super 5.5 litre sump that I have just made. It was a Corona sump in its previous life, with a 3.8 litre capacity.
After I get the olio gauge this week, then its going into the RC in Mr drinky drinky, with his standard sump & pickup.
Owen.

[o_man_ra23]

Aluminium alloy will expand more than steel every time. It will also gall and cause friction issues if the tolerances aren't right, however using standard gear will negate this issue.

[bholmberg]

lovely oil pump.
i've been looking to build a cogged replacement for the big 18rg slipper.
can someone who has an engine handy and apart provide me with these measurements please (a and b) - and I also need to know how many links in the top chain.
thanks.


[o_man_ra23]

What is the bottom gear?? Is it the crank gear, or the auxilliary shaft gear??

[river]

Hi,

Wasn't there something like this done for the 2T-G?

You'd want to make sure plenty of oil got to the gears and I wonder if you'd hear them whining when the engine is running.

seeyuzz
river

[Steve M]

I think some M series engines had a sprocket on its tensioner arm.
They may be still available through Precision International.