For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[GT1978]

Tappa tappa tappa. Sending me insane. Is there a way to quieten down lumpy cams on buckets? Would a different grade of oil help. I'm pretty sure the clearances are reasonably close. Would a thicker oil dull the hammering of the buckets or would a thinner oil free them up and keep the clearances tight?

Glen

[JadeEstevez]

My dad ran thicker oil in his landcruiser when it got around 300,000km's, That dulled the ticking but it was still faintly there. I was running 20W50 in my 18RC, Couldn't here any ticking at all

['ol_skool_'75]

Think I may have tracked down the thinner piston rings Just got to do a few measurements to confirm this

[iTz InSaNiTy]

Thanks for the quick replies Justin and everyone else!

That's some serious power... Is the engine still going?

These are the specs on my reground cams... Will these do the job?



Also see attached full head rebuild receipt (only 25000kms ago, wanted to just chuck this head on as is if I could...) which includes heavier than stock valve springs and oversized exhaust valves... Would have been handy if they included the actual specs on how much heavier and how much oversized on the recipt as I can remember




[/QUOTE] TE=JustenGT8;1512154]With that spec engine you will piss it in. My old n/a made 112rwkw@5000rpm on a milder bottom end, with just decent cams and head port.

92mm bore is fine n/a and will actually make the engine revs a smidge more freely.

pretty much any gasket will be fine for n/a but a MLS can't hurt given your high comp ratio and the rish of a little bit of det.

Endorse light flywheel and as far as i have seen they are all good. Back in the day i had to have my own custom made and it was around 6kg for a very noticeable improvement.

You need cams, get cams !! 272 total duration and 11ish mm lift will do the job nicely. Mine also had TRD oversized valves, which i would suggest. Keep the porting to jst a tidy up and it will still be very streetable but with an orgasmic induction roar?[/QUOTE]

[iTz InSaNiTy]

Okay, shall give them a call, thanks.

Stephen,

Not sure about that being the best value, it was the easiest though. Direct Clutch were awesome to deal with.
Not sure what weight the standard DCS steel flywheel is, I might need to measure mine sometime! (DCS can do custom weights as well though!)

Using a 22R flywheel may open up options for clutch kits?? Not sure on that.
One con would be needing to redrill/tapping your crank for M11 bolts instead of using the factory M10, which isn't major but is still extra work.

[iTz InSaNiTy]

Thanks for the advice Timbo!

You guys all suck, no one wanted a GB when I got mine!

I went through ToySport, as they were the best value. There were some issues which meant it took quite a long time to arrive, but there's nothing to say that would happen to you. He may even have them in stock.

I'm no expert, so I simply took Joels advice as he's been involved in toyota motors for many years!. He suggested 91.5mm, because the extra 0.5mm does fuck all for performance, but 92mm really pushes the boundaries on the block - a life sentence so to speak. Comp is 11:1, but only you can decide on the comp to suit your modifications (cams/headwork/ignition/fuelling), what fuel you want to run, what you plan to do with the motor and what you expect out of it (it's not just about a power figure).

I also got a graphite HG through him at the same time. It's what he uses on his engines and he reckon it handles the heat a lot better.

[JustenGT8]

Engine was sold long ago mate...early 90's. the buyer was playing with cam timing, god knows why, and forgot to put the lock pins in.....spun cams and bent every TRD valve

Your cams are pretty damn big duration wise and 10mm lift will be fine.

No detail on head mod work if any?, but the rebuild can't have hurt.

Build and enjoy

[Omegaman]

My question for the day. If I was to play with my 18geu,s Afm and exhaust cam adjustment, which scenario would be better?
I'm thinking of advancing the exhaust cam to give me low end torque, but also changing the Afm adjustment wheel by 1 to 2 teeth, to give me a little richer fuel and there fore a better response. Is this scenario ok, or should it be one or the other?
Or should i retard the exhaust cam to give me a better top end, then adjust my AFM to give me the better low down responce?
i'm not sure if any other factors come into it. eg injectors CC's, or fuel pressure and stuff.
maybe not so much..

[Zammo]

O__o

whats your offer ?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/moont...spd/1013844616

[jabbatron]

..........

[JustenGT8]

O__o

whats your offer ?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/moont...spd/1013844616

99% of South Australians are wrong in the head

[JadeEstevez]

He probably wants around 3-4k.

[timbosaurus]

He also knows how to use a rattle can.

Seems they teach you that before spelling in SA

[Omegaman]

O__o

whats your offer ?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/moont...spd/1013844616

I asked about this, whether their was an Air Flow metre. Because i can"t see how an ecu would work without the signal from an AFM.
I looked at the youtube vid, sounds good, but still baffling with no AFM. ECU not genuine? No offers yet from me, need a price guide.

[Zammo]

if a car has no AFM then chances are its running MAP sensor instead