For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Sagluren]

Owen - defiantly engine excessive breathing... father is a engine builder and im a mechanic... and it has been there for a few thousand kays... just a mixture of to little tolerances and possible slight ovaling in the bores but such is life.. its not like i spent lots of money or that i dont have three spare engines that need building..


cheers sam

[o_man_ra23]

Just need the kiddies to understand the difference between normal run in losses and a fooked bore...

PITA that you have such an issue still...

[Sagluren]

im having more trouble trying to disconnect the immobilizer then anything else...\


cheers sam

[The Witzl]

Sagluren - on startup of a fresh hone and set of rings, it isn't uncommon to be breathing a bit through the vent. About 100km of spirited driving followed by an oil change should sort this out.

Fixed for you.
Nothing beats bedding in rings than a good solid load-up of the engine.... a few 3rd gear wind outs on a long uphill are excellent for this (where speed limits allow of course).

Being soft on rings during the bedding in process just leads to rings that have a soft seal on the bore.

[thdevilshands]

cheers oman - saglauren - witzl

I've read plenty on hard run ins and am def gona drive it like its gonna be driven during the bed in phase.

I'm thinking most of the crap compression readings we got were from the cam timing, here's the pic again



but the assholes who did the compression test didn't do wet and dry so we're not sure. (still charged like they did both (over $100)

The other thing I've heard from reputable sources is that bucket and shim type heads can have a problem with old crappy oil where they freeze up and u've always got a valve slightly open.

Nothing that dropping the oil and running a lighter weight for a while and then switching back wont fix tho....

Any thoughts???

[S. Lowlux]

Hello all. I have never run a n 18 rg before but am currently building one for my green lux.
This thread is so good, & I am only up to page 72 but learnin.
When I got home from work this arvo I was straight into it. Opened up 4 oil pumps from rc engines & selected two pined gear types suitable for my purpose. Turned a spigot & champhered shoulder onto a bit of Fiat front strut rod & drove the oil pump shaft onto it, over to the vice & migged it on. After cooling & having another tinny, wacked it back in the lathe & turned it to correct diam & length. Length is + 12 mm. Now have 1 x 12mm longer pump shaft. bewdy.
Now chuck up the other shaft with gear pinned to it & spin the gear down to 17 mm, knock the pin out press out shaft. Now have one 17 mm gear
Next is set up the outer rotor to 0 run out in the lathe & spin it down to 12mm. This is as far as I got, too many tinnies you see & dont use lathes when you are too pizzled kiddies.
My next steps are to turn the other gear to 20mm & make a 12mm spacer block like the 5mm one Toyota has in the rg pump & pin the gears to the longer shaft = 37mm gears, 12mm rotor + standard 25mm = 37mm rotor + 12mm spacer & we have 1 high volume 18 rg oil pump.
Owen

[o_man_ra23]

Owen, could you draw a diagram of what you just wrote, scan it and post it, as your over indulgence of tinnies is causing your writing to become confusing... and that's my job Oh, and beer tastes better from stubbies...
Cheers, Owen

Witzl, I deliberately wrote moderate driving, as that is usually translated into good use of low and mid torque, whereas spirited driving is often translated into caneing the crap out of it till the rings sit in the sump... You want to push the rings into the bores, not push the pistons into the sump after all

Devilshands, The dirty oil issue you are referring to is an issue in motors which run hydraulic shims, such as the RB25 series of engine. 18R-G engines have the fortune of using the ultimate in high revving goodness, which are solid shims underneath the buckets. These don't get oil on them in any great quantity, and are not affected more than a few points of a thou by degradation in the oil. However, a number of factors including stretching of valves, wear of the spring collets, degredation of the springs etc can all have a dramatic effect on the valve clearances, so this would need to be checked anyway.

[river]

Hi,

Owen, could you draw a diagram of what you just wrote, scan it and post it, as your over indulgence of tinnies is causing your writing to become confusing... and that's my job Oh, and beer tastes better from stubbies...

Basically, the shaft has been extended and the gearing changed so the pump is deeper in the sump and the higher gearing means it will pump more oil. Well, that's the theory.

seeyuzz
river

[S. Lowlux]

Hi,



Basically, the shaft has been extended and the gearing changed so the pump is deeper in the sump and the higher gearing means it will pump more oil. Well, that's the theory.

seeyuzz
river

Yeah that is correct, river.
For a drawing look in the green book. Section 6, pages 4 & 5.
See what is different on pump on page 5 to pump on page 4.
# 6 Oil Pump Body Spacer.
The pump drawing on page 4 has oilpump drive rotor & driven rotor hieght of 25mm.
The pump on page 5 is 30mm rotors in the same housing + the spacer of 5mm.
This is Toyotas fix to hop up pump output. I have gone to 37mm high rotors with a 12mm spacer to try to gain more. Really I would like to piggy back two pumps & start boring out the oil galleries in the block See page 3.
Owen.

[o_man_ra23]

The general gist of things is simple... it is more the measurements which get confusing after a long day.

[S. Lowlux]

Every manufacturer makes a weak link booboo now & then and from the million miles I have done with the 18 rc luxes I know the oil pump & those damn 14 & a 1/2 kilometre long chains rattling around in the front are two of them with the r engines, I have learned from this forum that sump baffling is another & that will be my next project. I have not yet found the definitive solution for the sump yet, has any one got more to offer than wings ? or is that it ?
Centre the pickup, increase the capacity & try to keep oil down under a tray baffle is my intention.
While I am at all of this is there any other 18 rg weak links that I could tackle now while its in bits.
Mine is a 88253 early single valve springs which I am changing to double.
Owen.

[o_man_ra23]

Owen, click the RA28 link in my sig. Somewhere in there is what I did with my sump. Simple yet seems to be an effective solution.

[roadkill]

Hi,

i do believe what Owen is doing is exactly what i suggested some 18months ago. Using an old rc pump, he has created an extra 12mm of the gears used in the pump and they are being pinned to the existing pump gears. Really is quite simple and if i had the tools to do it with i'd have done it ages ago. Just gotta make sure everything lines up or it'll probably go bang.

bEn

[S. Lowlux]

Maatey, she all lines up I am doing this not some dipstick hole .
Owen, my good man, I see the sump on page 6, the old trap & flap. Gonna do major sump change, rt corona sumps need lotsa cut,n,shut to fit rn 41, so with that I am doing more capacity trap,n,flap, & put the sump plug at the Very Bottom, I mean Very. That egg cup of old oil left in the sump at oil change allways bothers me. If it has any real effect or not does not matter, I don't like it, I just don't like it. Oh by the way magnetic bung too.
Owen.

[river]

Hi,

The chains themselves aren't too bad. It's the guides/slippers that can wear out and cause issues. The "start up rattle" of the chains when you first start the engine and the oil hasn't got to them is something that annoys me. The best oil filter to use is the Toyota one. It costs a couple of dollars more than the generic ones you can buy, but the original Toyota filter seems to get the oil pressue up quicker, and therefore to the chains more rapidly on start up. I think you'll find most of us 18R-G owners have discovered, over the years, to use the Toyota oil filter and none other.

seeyuzz
river