Attaching brake calipers to hubs?

[oldcorollas]

Why are you resisting the welding idea? I know nothing about welding

hahahhahahah

welding on steering components is.. well.. not a good idea
plus unless you get it properly tested, is rather illegal.. because it is not a good idea...

edit: what they said

[wagonist]

hahahhahahah

welding on steering components is.. well.. not a good idea
plus unless you get it properly tested, is rather illegal.. because it is not a good idea...

edit: what they said

Hence the reason the question was asked. I should also clarify that the welding considered was some tack spot welds to hold the nut in place, not a full-on structural deal.

And I also know that cast objects are difficult to work with because of the way they are formed.

I did want clarification because others may also be reading this thread & hence the knowledge is shared

Got any ideas about how the casting thickness issues could be dealt with so that helicoils could become an option?

[PeteH]

I should also clarify that the welding considered was some tack spot welds to hold the nut in place, not a full-on structural deal.

I assumed that, but welding is welding...........arguing the difference between tack weld and full run around the circumference will be moot if something was to happen.

[wagonist]

I assumed that, but welding is welding...........arguing the difference between tack weld and full run around the circumference will be moot if something was to happen.

Fairs enough. Thanks for the input. It has definitely been considered.

The biggest issue with upgrading the brakes on these cars is the caliper clearance. The car isn't big, so the wheel diameter isn't either.

Bolt shop wasn't open early enough for when I came past & isn't open weekends.
Anyone know of any that I could try?

[PeteH]

Got any ideas about how the casting thickness issues could be dealt with so that helicoils could become an option?

So how thick are the locating ears on the 205?

If they are the same as the Dina, 10mm, problem solved.......Helicoil........if they are 15mm have a rethink......caliper relocation bracket time.......or through bolt and nut.

[oldcorollas]

that link to PDF also seems to show the caliper bolts don't go all the way through the ST215 calipers either....

i think (and this is not my profession opinion ) that if a 12mm helicoil will be ok in the knuckle, then a 14 will be good also

but 12mm bolt and nut will be easiest.. assuming there is enough space for the nut to have clearance for the disc...
hmm.. you could always machine out a couple of mm of the disc, since the pads are probably not going to go right to the edge anyway.. then you might be able to run full height nut?

[wagonist]

You can get torque prevailing nuts which are all metal.

Been searching for these.
Any suggestions about suppliers?

[RA35GT]

Try searching for cone lok (or cone lock or thereabouts) Blackwoods have them in Class 10. (What class bolt will you be using?)

[oldcorollas]

(What class bolt will you be using?)

whatever his engineer recommends (or should)

who is signing off on the brake upgrade?

[wagonist]

that link to PDF also seems to show the caliper bolts don't go all the way through the ST215 calipers either....

i think (and this is not my profession opinion ) that if a 12mm helicoil will be ok in the knuckle, then a 14 will be good also

but 12mm bolt and nut will be easiest.. assuming there is enough space for the nut to have clearance for the disc...
hmm.. you could always machine out a couple of mm of the disc, since the pads are probably not going to go right to the edge anyway.. then you might be able to run full height nut?

I didn't check for bolt penetration into the the thread. Makes sense because otherwise the bolt could be rubbing on the rotor. I will check that when I get home.

Nut clearance to disc isn't a problem, nut height isn't a problem either. wouldn't even need to self clear

With the caliper mounted closer to the axle centreline than the ST205, the pads actually run over the edge of the rotor & need about 3mm filed off

[wagonist]

Bought some "conelok" nuts & bolts this morning.

Problem is for the 12mm thread (coarse thread 1.75), the nuts use a 19mm spanner, whereas the automotive 12x1.25 use a 17mm.

The 17mm will clear without any point touching the rotor, but this is not the case for the 19mm

Not good, but it was only $2.70 used.

I do have some used nuts here with a built in flange. One looks like it may have been a locking nut (at some point in the past).
The other is off a Subaru rear diff.

I did just discover that the 2 nuts on the back of the Subaru diff are metal locking (or just rusty), with a 12x1.25 & need a 17mm spanner. They would require washers as they don't have a built in flange, but that's no biggie.

Access to hold the nut steady is pretty good with the right modified spanner, and then the bolts can actually be done up with a rattle gun.

Now just to see if you can still buy nuts from a Subaru that's 20 years old (though I think the rear of the current diffs are still supported the same).

[wagonist]

Update:
ST205 has 15mm thickness where the front calipers bolt onto, the same as my current calipers.

I've gone to the steps of ordering the nuts from Subaru (they're still used on the current models for securing the rear of the diff), plus some 10.9 grade bolts, flat washers for both the bolt head & nuts, plus some spring washers.

Not an ideal solution, but should work.

I'm curious though as to whether the spring washers would be necessary as the factory setup doesn't use them.
Could they prevent the whole setup from becoming properly tight & seated correctly?

[TERRA Operative]

Spring washers flatten down to become like a normal washer when compressed so they will allow you to torque it all up properly. Up to you if you use them. The bean counters probably decided they weren't necessary, but I'm sure they won't hurt.
A low grade of loctite will do the same job if you don't want to use the spring washer.

[petergoudie]

In areas of high vibration spring washers can crack and fall out. They are specifically prohibited in the Australian Standard for turntables & couplings on trucks.

[wagonist]

Just a little more loading on a truck turntable (like 40t...), but I do get the point.
I think I was more concerned that sometimes the spring washer doesn't get fully flattened, and therefore, with the vibration, the bolt could move around.

Any idea about the "heatproofness" of loctite? These nuts are just inside (like 3mm) the rotor face.