Attaching brake calipers to hubs?

**petergoudie** · 18-03-2010, 10:50 AM

It isn't 40t on the turntable because the rear triaxle is there and because it is not at the end it takes more than half. It's the impact load in shear that's the issue. Also, I've removed plenty of bolts on engines with broken spring washers. If you want, put a split pin in or wire them up.

**Duk** · 18-03-2010, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by wagonist

Any idea about the "heatproofness" of loctite? These nuts are just inside (like 3mm) the rotor face.

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...IkJLVjgeZMK0Lw
High temperature Locitie 271. It starts to degrade to below 50% strength at 150*C

**wagonist** · 18-03-2010, 12:12 PM

Peter: not sure of the maths, but the turntable needs to pull all of the trailers, so there's still plenty of mass there.

Duk: thanks for that. I wonder if there's a higher temp one? Because brake rotors under severe conditions (this car is destined for track work) will get into the several hundred degrees mark, and is the reason I'm using metal conelok nuts & not nylock versions.
They should really hold by themselves, that's what they're designed to do.

**Duk** · 18-03-2010, 12:47 PM

I'm in a similar situation and threw out the idea of loctite awhile ago.
Cheers for mentioning the name Conelock, I never knew what they were called. They get used where I work on drive coupling bush pins quite often and I figured they'd be ideal.
But they really are a use once solution. IE you screw it on a bolt/stud and undo it, you throw it in the bin because the cone is now no longer as effective at preventing the nut from coming undone.
It's the same for Nylock nuts.

**petergoudie** · 18-03-2010, 01:31 PM

Wagonist, its the friction between the mountings caused by the clamping action of the bolts that does the holding.

Between messages I'm replacing the head gasket on my 7MGE and one of the spring washers holding the inlet manifold was broken. (This is the second time I've done this and I now know why the cressida was so expensive new. They must have been on the production line for weeks trying to fit everything.)

In regard to nuts or loctitie; check with the glue manufacturer but I doubt if it will do what you want. A standard nut with a split pin or locking wire should do. I've had a few cars like this that were standard. When they use wire they wind it through both bolts. I just used to replace it with a bit of brass or steel oxy welding rod.

**wagonist** · 18-03-2010, 01:51 PM

That's a brand name.
I got some from Blackwoods, but the outer size of their ones were too large.
Discovered the Subaru ones were same thread, but smaller, so therefore they clear the rotor no matter what position the nut is facing.

The rusty 20 year old ones hold on pretty good

(one pulled the stud out of the diff rather than undoing...

), at least good enough til the new ones arrive.

My front rotors are new, so there's a good number of machining in them before the caliper needs to come off again.

Not real fussed on the split pin idea, I'm too close to the rotor to ensure that they'll clear always, and access is a PITA.

**oldcorollas** · 18-03-2010, 01:56 PM

you could just do the brake upgrade properly, especially if you are worried about putting the car into a wall while on track..

what are the benefits of the ST205 caliper vs something decent?

apart from having same bolt spacing and needing dodgied up bolts?

**wagonist** · 18-03-2010, 02:11 PM

What's properly...
Nothing different here to bolting up a spacer plate which others have done with nylock nuts & passed engineering, so explain to me how this is dodgy.

Got anything constructive to offer?
How about you do something "decent" to YOUR car, then get back to me with the results...

**oldcorollas** · 18-03-2010, 05:52 PM

i'm just about to do something constructive...

ahh the serenity

**WDE_BDY** · 18-03-2010, 07:49 PM

Not very good on the name, but you could make up a tabbed section of metal. The ones where they bolt under the two bolts made up of thin metal, tabs are then folded up that stop the nuts turning. In conjuction with the conelok nuts will give you a bit more peice of mind.

Callum

**thechuckster** · 18-03-2010, 09:42 PM

don't use loctite on brake caliper bolts - is a FPITA when you have to remove them in a hurry and some idiot has used thread-locker on them.

The heat transfer from the disk won't be a big issue: you've got an air gap and the bolts are firmly seated in a much larger mass/lump of metal. Radiant heat transfer would only be a factor if you regularly stopped with the disks stupendously hot.