Attaching brake calipers to hubs?

[wagonist]

I'm guessing that's theory?
Because on the last Dina, it made stuff all difference.
And it went from having single piston fronts on 256mm rotors
to twin pistons on the same rotors
to ST184 rear discs instead of drums
to ST205 front calipers on 300mm rotors
to ST204 front (single piston) calipers and ST204 rotors (274mm)

Didn't touch anything else in the braking system (15/16" master)

[wagonist]

I'd drill and tap for 14x1.25, if you ever want to convert back in the future then you can helicoil.

Nice thought, except the original brakes require the knuckle to be smooth.

[oldcorollas]

why not just use a thread insert, like the nissan brakes? seems a whoooole lot less farking around?

[wagonist]

You mean like the rear calipers do?
And the thread insert is in the caliper if I remember correctly, which sits the other side of the knuckle (ie the outside).
Not sure if there's enough meat in the knuckle (about 10mm) to drill out a hole large enough for that.

[big_zop]

...then bolt the ST205 caliper onto the ST215 backing plate.

I hope youre not actually going to do it that way and meant to say that the ST205 caliper will bolt to the stock ST215 location?

[wagonist]

I hope youre not actually going to do it that way and meant to say that the ST205 caliper will bolt to the stock ST215 location?

Unfixed

[wagonist]

I hope youre not actually going to do it that way and meant to say that the ST205 caliper will bolt to the stock ST215 location?

edit 2:
actually that is how the caliper mounts anyway.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199...WMZZ_4707.html
The backing plate bolts onto the rear knuckle/upright & part fo that is a thck piece of metal which the caliper bolts through.

[big_zop]

So it does, seems a bit strange to do it that way. Though looking at the rear carrier, there appears to be two holes which look to be in the right spot for the caliper, does this mean the bolt goes through both but actually secures to the carrier?

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199...WMZZ_4804.html - 42304/42305

[wagonist]

No, that pic is a little misleading

The backing plate bolts on in 4 locations with 10mm bolts into the tapped knuckle (don't know what you call the rear one, OC?), then the caliper sits on the rotor side of the backing plate & has a threaded insert (the original steel calipers are just tapped)

This pic is from my previous FWD Dina, but the brakes attach exactly the same, just the hubs, etc are different.


BTW, the caliper mounts are 4mm thick & then with the bends they are strong.

[wagonist]

why not just use a thread insert, like the nissan brakes? seems a whoooole lot less farking around?

You reckon?

Link to LHD converted Dina with EVO V brembos & STi rotors

Requires 18" wheels & a 25mm spacer (maybe fixed with a different wheel option)
With the car's use, I don't find either of these an acceptable option.

[ed]

his brake calipers are on upside down....

helicoil

[wagonist]

his brake calipers are on upside down....

helicoil

haha yes, ooopss

Why, you worried that if I do the plate like Brett suggested, I may need some milling done, & then you'll be contacted

I'm going to further investigate Brett's idea (got access to a large cutoff metal saw & a drill press at work) first as it's non-destructive to my current setup, & then I'll see what's doing if it doesn't work.

[YLD-16L]

Just had a quick flick though this and I am seeing ideas of screwing M12 bolts into 10mm and 8mm plates etc.

I'd have a read and run the calcs to determine the thread depth if you do decide contemplate some of the other methods of fastening being thrown about:

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl...ead_Calcs.html

http://www.engineersedge.com/thread_...engagement.htm



Just tap and run helicoils - best option by far.

Why run a sub-standard method of fastening now just because you may change them in the future, especially when you have spares anyway?

If recent history tells us anything this thing will be written off long before you'll ever contemplate changing them back to stock anyway



EDIT: FWIW I just recently did option 1 from your first post on my new struts and brake setup.

[wagonist]

Interesting. Getting a bit technical.
It's not just a matter of may change back later, that's actually the least important point. And I daresay with the Dina halfcuts now starting to come in, getting spares wouldn't be overly difficult.

My main concerns are the firstly the issues for trying to redrill & tap the knuckles accurately (ie securing them flat) & also the same issue for redrilling the calipers if the bolt size is increased.

The second concerns is a similar issue with the helicoils for what is an extremely critical area of the car. I've retapped gearbox & chassis mounts before knowing that there are multiple attachment points to share the load along with less overall movement & load.

Can someone enlighten me about:
1. is cast steel stronger than a plate machined?
2. is the fixed part of a floating caliper a cast part, or machined (I think it's the first)?

The original calipers are secured by having a tapped hole which the bolts pull on. These are not more than 10mm thick.

Thanks for the input.

[YLD-16L]

My main concerns are the firstly the issues for trying to redrill & tap the knuckles accurately (ie securing them flat) & also the same issue for redrilling the calipers if the bolt size is increased.

To drill square just take your time set it up correctly on the drill press/mill. To tap square just leave it on the press, remove drill bit and fit tap, wind down the head to apply pressure and turn by hand, once started then remove and finish tapping by hand as you normally would.

The second concerns is a similar issue with the helicoils for what is an extremely critical area of the car. I've retapped gearbox & chassis mounts before knowing that there are multiple attachment points to share the load along with less overall movement & load.

A correctly applied helicoil is as strong or stronger than a tapped thread of the same final size. So no issues there. If you are still concerned then just tap to M14 x X.XX and don't run a helicoil. Depending on the % thread cut depth you may not even have to drill the holes out to enlarge them. Just measure and see for the thread cut % depth what size hole is required.

Can someone enlighten me about:
1. is cast steel stronger than a plate machined?

Plate machined out of what?

2. is the fixed part of a floating caliper a cast part, or machined (I think it's the first)?

Cast steel on most OEM Toyota stuff

The original calipers are secured by having a tapped hole which the bolts pull on. These are not more than 10mm thick.

Read those links I posted.

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