Attaching brake calipers to hubs?

[wagonist]

machined out of steel.

Nice links, I hate it though when you read 2 links that show the same formulas, yet don't properly show which units of measure is being used (as an engineer this really gets my goat). There is some reference to mm on one link, and inches on another, yet the formulas are the same

It's securing the items that are a problem.

About the only flat places on either the knuckle or the caliper are the mounting points, which I actually need exposed so that they can be worked on.

[YLD-16L]

It's securing the items that are a problem.

A lot of clamps and spacers and shims and you can have it held in place as square as you need.

I had 4 or 5 clamps, metal off cuts and cardboard shims to do mine.

[wagonist]

I did some measuring when I got home tonight.

The original calipers are 15mm thick at the tapped section, giving 12 threads at 1.25 pitch

The knuckles are only 10mm thick at the same point.

On my last car, this may have been ok because it couldn't achieve the speeds that this one can (max at Wakefield was about 140km/h), plus it had huge compression braking (24:1 will do that).

So either I've got to find some 15mm plate, or weld nuts on, as I don't feel comfortable reducing the mounting thickness by 50%.

[PeteH]

or weld nuts on.

Welding to the knuckle is not the best idea you have put foward.

Why are you resisting the helicoil idea?

[wagonist]

Because its 50% less than the thread section that Toyota used.
10mm may be ok if you're sandwiching the between the bolt head & the threaded section, but in my opinion (don't forget I'm a pedantic Engineer), that's not enough.

Actually, my first option is to use the metal locking nuts & modify a spanner to fit into the space where it goes (needs to be bent) as it only needs to hold the nut still whilst the bolt gets tightened.

Besides, I also know how I drive, and I think bigger is better

[PeteH]

Actually, my first option is to use the metal locking nuts & modify a spanner to fit into the space where it goes (needs to be bent) as it only needs to hold the nut still whilst the bolt gets tightened.

Sounds like the easiest idea...........so quit yabbering and do it.......

don't forget I'm a pedantic Engineer

Yeah no worries Mr. hub/knuckle/stub axle........

[wagonist]

Yeah, yeah

Been kind of busy making the car go again, so that's all good now.

Will be going passed the bolt shop on the way to work tomorrow, and Bunnings on the way home.
I also need to check whether my brake lines are long enough, wait for a replacement piston to arrive at Toyota (only had 3 in stock in Sydney), get new pads, and get the calipers painted (well don't need to do this one, but I want to)

[oldcorollas]

Will be going passed the bolt shop on the way to work tomorrow, and Bunnings on the way home.

surely there is nothing available at bunnings, that should go anywhere near a braking system? (maybe a breaking system )

[wagonist]

Ed's first post mentioned the SST (supercheap sacrificial tool).
Bunnings also has a similar thing where spanners & sockets are sold for about $1 ea.
Sure, you have to go sifting through a bin to find what you want, but the $1 14mm single hex socket was invaluable in removing any heat treated exhaust bolts recently.

Means I can buy one, find out how long it needs to be, then stick it in a vice & bash the crap out of it to bend it. Very therapeutic too

[Hen]

Move along, move along... nothing to see here

[wagonist]

Welding to the knuckle is not the best idea you have put foward.

Why are you resisting the helicoil idea?

Why are you resisting the welding idea? I know nothing about how to weld & the associated problems so if there's a good reason why not to do it, I'm happy to listen.

Debating without a reason is just arguing to me

[wagonist]

Move along, move along... nothing to see here

Yes, but we saw what was on the email notification

[CrUZida]

Successfully welding structural things to cast iron is one of the harder things to weld.

[PeteH]

Why are you resisting the welding idea? I know nothing about welding so if there's a good reason why not to do it, I'm happy to listen.

Debating without a reason is just arguing to me

That would be reason enough to steer clear and go with an easier option.

As for a justification. Well I like to play things fairly safe, boring yes, and like to employ best practice when able. In NSW you will not get an Engineering signatory to sign off on any forged steering/suspension component that has been modified by welding.

RTA VSI 06

The above link has it in black and white.

As for why this is: Forged component of unknown quality/material + uncontrolled application of heat = weird structure = going to fail in a catastrophic way.

That may sound a little overboard but you are talking about a component that supports your brake caliper. If it fails it will not be pretty.

[wagonist]

I should probably clarify, I know nothing about how to weld, I know stuff about the theory of welding & it's application.

There is nothing wrong with safe, I completely agree with that principle because it's my life (and others) on the line.
Which is why I'm trying to stay away from the helicoil idea at the moment. It's not the helicoils that are the issue, its the thickness of metal that it's being attached to.