PIC 10: Two inner screws
PIC 11: Bare inner dizzy ready for the press
STEP 8: Mark drive gear reference and press gear off shaft
Now comes the delicate part. Mark the drive gear’s position on the shaft in a couple of places (a line above and below should do). Also note there is a groove and a bump on the faces of the gear, this is a reference marker put there by factory, it’s a backup in case you forget to mark the gear’s position. I do stress that you MUST know where to put the gear back because if it’s out in any way your timing will be stuffed. The gear MUST go back to the exact same position on the shaft it was when you removed it.
Once you’ve marked the gear use your press (or whatever other device you’ve conjured up) to press the gear off the shaft. It’s important to apply an even force on the face of the gear (on opposite sides) so that the gear is moving up the shaft and not trying to “twist” while it’s moving up the shaft. Once it gets moving it should come off without too much force but again, if you have a press this won’t be an issue.
Once the gear is off you can pull the shaft through the dizzy housing. You’ve now got an empty dizzy housing.
PIC 12: Reference marking for gear wrt. Shaft
Here you can see the dizzy drive gear. Unlike the popular assumption that there is a notch on the shaft to aid putting the gear back on, we can see that it actually doesn’t have any marker apart from the little bump/groove on that one tooth. (The bump visible in the photo). You can see the shaft in the background.
PIC 13: The dizzy drive gear
IMAGE MISSING - will upload again later
From left to right along the shaft we see the cam, trigger gear and bearing. At this point it may be a good idea to examine the bearing to see if it’s spinning nicely. Mine was perfectly fine so I didn’t have to replace it but if you decide to replace it, you can now press it off. Be gentle when fitting a new bearing.
PIC 14: The dizzy shaft and gear.
PIC 15: Checking the bearing for good operation
STEP 9: Remove the U-Seal
Now if you peer inside the dizzy housing you will see the U-Ring that has been the cause of all the oil coming out of your dizzy. You can remove the U-Seal using a flathead and tapping it with a hammer carefully from behind. I do mean carefully, if you slip and score the side of the dizzy you will be the cause of your own irrepairable oil leak. Once you’ve knocked the little bugger out you can stare for a few seconds in amazement at how rock hard it is compared to the new one. Once you pick your jaw off the ground, you can fit the new seal, take note of orienatation!
Once the seal is fitted everything can be wiped clean and reassembled in reverse order.
PIC 16: The troublemaker
STEP 10: Replace O-ring
Before you fit the dizzy back don’t forget to change the O-ring as well. The old one is probably dried up as well so cutting it off is probably the best option, again careful not to score the dizzy housing. The new one should be elastic enough to roll on.
PIC 17: The O-ring
That's it. Refit the dizzy making sure all the alignment marks are correct and if everything went smoothly the car should fire up no worries. Check for oil leak from the dizzy and smile!
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