18R/RG performance

[o_man_ra23]

There is a lot of money in all that work, u recon u can do it all ur self? how can u hone a block? thats a serious question, i would like to know as im almost about to pay $400 to get it done.

Bore honing tool you can by from Repco for $80ish. Get the bottlebrush type one if you can find one. Have a spray bottle full of kero ready. Keep plenty of kero on the bores as you hone with the tool in a drill at a fairly low speed (easier with a second person). I usually use about half a litre to a litre of kero per bore, so make sure you have a tray under the motor to collect it all. The kero is there to lubricate the honing stones, but more importantly to wash away all the honing grit. Haynes manuals do a good writeup on how this is done. Ive done a fair few motors like this, never had a problem.

Also, using plain steel rings will help reduce bore wear, and they run in quicker too.

Cheers, Owen

[DQIKST]

I would agree with the statement of a 10sec car not being a good driver... unless of course you go an uber beams sequential turbo technical masterpeice. But your not allowed to do that until after ive done it

It all depends on if you have cracked your head, or blown a head gasket as to what is involved in the rebuild. If you have just blown the head gasket, get the head faced (no more than necessary, your chain will go sloppy), put new timing chains in for the sake of it, hone the bores, linish the crank, new bearings, rings, gasket and seal kit (if you already have the VRS kit coming, an 18RC bottom end kit will sort the rest out), check the valve clearances, wash the block with hot soapy water, and rinse with boiling water... better still, get it acid bathed before honing, dont forget to replace the auxilliary shaft bearings too. Wash the head with kero before and after the head shave. Facing the flywheel and decking the block are other good options at this stage. New water pump, thermostat etc are also good, and check the wear in the oil pump, could be a requirement to replace also.

quite possible to do most of this yourself. Adjustable cam gears and lumpy cams wont do much without putting in 9.7:1 pistons.

Cheers, Owen

Owen, just stated what you said to me to my cousin over the phone and i think i would be going for a rebuild but a freshen up if you know what i mean,
for 600 bucks i am getting the VRS kit, the bloke is going to be acid dipping the head and everything i am going to be acid dipping the pistons and honing the block, i have taken into account about what you said about the adjustable cam gear but i think it is still better that i have one, then build my engine with out it even if i dont have 9:7:1 pistions.

does any one know where i can get if from in SYD?? also where do i get a new chain from

toyota??? part no.???

owen witzl tosco any one with more info than me on 18RGs

can somebody write up all the parts and part numbers and where i can get these from,
ive done a little more searching and every one seems to be saying the same thing.

PARTS ARE HARD TO FIND FOR THE 18RG

thanks owen i have to spread the love before i give u more rep.

[kingmick]

you must be spreading the love in the wrong places then!lmao

[o_man_ra23]

i buy chains from Autobarn, about $40 each for the top one, cheaper for the bottom. I wouldnt acid dip the head, aluminium doesnt go well with acid. Same goes for pistons, clean them by hand with kero. Dont acid dip any bearings you wish to re-use, so make sure you have replacement aux shaft bearings. Also check out the slop in the gudgeon pins, the bushes may require replacement (these need to be installed by a machine shop)

If you just want adjustable cam gears, without the lumpy cams, just get early model cams, try river, mr dohc, jeffrora28, witzl etc for a pair.

Ya missus can spread the love for ya surely

Cheers, Owen

[DQIKST]

i buy chains from Autobarn, about $40 each for the top one, cheaper for the bottom. I wouldnt acid dip the head, aluminium doesnt go well with acid. Same goes for pistons, clean them by hand with kero. Dont acid dip any bearings you wish to re-use, so make sure you have replacement aux shaft bearings. Also check out the slop in the gudgeon pins, the bushes may require replacement (these need to be installed by a machine shop)

If you just want adjustable cam gears, without the lumpy cams, just get early model cams, try river, mr dohc, jeffrora28, witzl etc for a pair.

Ya missus can spread the love for ya surely

Cheers, Owen

im just trying to repeat what my cousin said to me, but will hound that into his head.
where can i get aux shaft bearings from??
also where are the bushes avalable from as i know im going to need them.

will be sending PM shortly thanks.

missus can spread love to me but if she was part of toymods i dont think i would be saying a few things that have been quoted.
cya

[o_man_ra23]

all bearings, bushes etc from the bottom end are the same part numbers as 18RC items. Easy to obtain from any parts supplier for cheap too. its the pistons, quality of crank and rods, aux shaft etc that are different, but the parts that wear out are the same (until you get to the head, then its another kettle of fish)

Cheers, Owen

[Screamn_Sleeka]

hahah, i was gunna go for the "she can spread more than that", but u did a good job o man 23.
I dont think u stressed enough how important u dont put the alloy head in acid this isnt some 202 we are playing with here.
Thanks for that i will buy my own honing stones then, im not paying somone to enjoy working on my buet engine!

Did you have to use over sized pistons though?
-Im sure ill use enough terps, i go though so much of that stuff, use it on my weetbix

[kingmick]

um you do acid dip heads in special alloy acid as every machinst does. anc you can acid dip every thing exept things like bearings.
chains are easy to get hold of and your machinist can get them for you.
do it properly or dont worry doing, unless you know how to build engines it will be hard for you to tell if you can get away with a freshenup or a rebuild. you could be throwing hundreds in the bin if you pick wrong.

[o_man_ra23]

i never had to use oversized pistons due to a lack of bore wear (thank the toyota gods for super hard 18RG bores). Make sure you dont need to overbore before going ahead. Bout time you piped up Mick.

Cheers, Owen

[Screamn_Sleeka]

ok, ill take the bold off then,
I had no idea, i dont know wat machinests do, but i have heard some pretty bad stories.

Are these the go? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-LEG-BRAKE-C...temZ4642359246
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-STONE-BRAKE...temZ4583652831

[o_man_ra23]

3 legs are better than 2... but the bottle brush type are better still. Get a reputable brand, last thing you want is it to bend and put a big scratch in your bore.

Cheers, Owen

[kingmick]

lol was letting you have a go! you where doing a good job mate!

[Norbie]

I have some comments on an 18R-G plus SC12 combo, having recently given this some serious thought. I acquired an SC12 and associated plumbing and positioned it in the engine bay on the exhaust side, with the idea I could adapt the factory AC bracket to become a supercharger bracket. Here are my thoughts:

1. You'll never get an SC12 to fit on the inlet side of the engine, unless you don't mind removing the distributor.
2. Exhaust side is the go, but forget the AC bracket - it mounts the blower too far away from the engine and it fouls the inner guard. A narrower bracket will do the job, but only just.
3. The mounting holes on the SC12 are on the wrong side, so any custom bracket will be an unruly and difficult beast to fabricate. And no, you can't mount an SC12 upside-down (unfortunately).
4. The factory inlet and outlet pipes on the SC12 point in crazy directions which are totally wrong for a RWD engine. From memory the inlet pipe points towards the cylinder head and the outlet pipe is somewhere out of the bonnet and pointing skywards. Figure on a fair bit of custom alloy welding to fix this.
5. There's no way the factory v-belt for the AC will drive any sort of supercharger, so you'll need to have a custom 5-rib crank pulley fabricated.
6. A turbo installation will be so much easier and probably cheaper, which is why I have abandoned this idea (the fact that I have two turbo kits ready to go may have influenced my decision somewhat). Yes a bare SC12 is very cheap, but this doesn't mean shit if it costs you a bucket of money to get it mounted and working properly.

Having said all of that, I reckon it would be a great deal easier to do it on an 18R-C as is has miles of room on the inlet side for mounting big things. I'm not sure I'd go to all that trouble on an 18R-C though, but others might.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

this type?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FLEX-HONE-60M...temZ4613368847
Does the 60mm mean its for a 60mm bore? thats the largest size on ebay, and its already up to $80.

Thanks for that Norbie, uve saved me time and money, i was considering it

[o_man_ra23]

coming from you, ill take that statement as a compliment better than rep

Cheers, Owen