KE70 - A Gas Guzzler

[Vios-GT_07]

just for reference, my MA70 Supra uses around 18-20 Litres per hundred!

Eldar.O.

dude there's something wrong with your ride... 20 litres to 100 kms is worse than a race built pushrod V8 with 2 speed at dragday. Was a VK, and 5 runs + some cruising returned 300 kms to 50 litres.. (16 litres per 100 kms) and is a 12 second 1/4 ride.

2NZ-FE is gold for economy no matter how u trash it it still goes hard and won't drink petrol like beer.

[Raceflo]

To clarify the comment, if I am driving the KE70 and I drive it fairly hard, it returns between 450 and 550 km per tank, if my wife is driving to and from work she regularly returns between 600 and 700 km per tank, and yes the trip meter is always reset, and the car is only run on BP ultimate.

[Tham]

one very noob question here, im nto that mechanicall minded, like know basic stuff etc, but how the fark do i advance/check/change my timing? i've never done it before and i suppose i'll get neg repped for asking or whatever, but most things i read say "use a timing light" or some shit but i wouldnt know where the fark to use it lol..

please, no neg rep

If you do not have a timing light, you can
try static timing as I sometimes do. But this
can only be used if you have contact points,
not electronic ignition.

You will need to have a multimeter though.
An analog meter is better, as a digital one
is a bit hard to read in such an application.
Set it to "X1 resistance".

1. Take off the distributor cap. Start-crank the
engine briefly until the rotor points almost
towards the No. 1 plug wire. Note that the
rotor swings clockwise. If you overshoot,
just crank again. If the rotor is already near
the No. 1 plug, then skip this step.

2. Look down at the crankshaft pulley. You will
likely see the timing notch just to the left of
the timing marks (marked "0-20"). Turn the fan
manually until the notch aligns with the timing
you desire. Try 15 degrees first. You can also
use a 19 mm wrench to turn the crankshaft pulley.

3. Now loosen the distributor's locknut. You need
someone else to tap the multimeter's leads, one
to the ignition coil's negative terminal, and the
other to any good earth. If you have two crocodile
clipwires, then you don't need a friend to help you,
just clip each wire to the end of each lead and the
coil negative/earth.

4. Set the meter to "X1" resistance. Most likely, the
meter pointer will swing fully right to "0" ohms,
indicating the points are still closed (and your
original timing is less than 15 degrees). Now loosen
the distributor's locknut. Turn its body very slowly
anticlockwise (to advance the timing) until the meter
just swings left, which means that the points are
opening and you have reached your desired timing
advance. You may need to turn the distributor body
to and fro a few times to fine-tune its position. The
contact points distributor also usually has a plastic
knob at the rear of the vacuum diaphragm, which you
can turn for fine timing adjustments. It is marked "A"
for advance and "R" for retard. Then lock the nut.

5. If, in the above step, the meter did not swing right
initially and stays left, this means that the points
have already opened and your original timing was
more than 15 degrees. Then you will have to turn
your distributor clockwise instead to retard the
timing, until the points close back and the meter
swings right.

If you do not have a multimeter, use any 12 volt bulb.
Solder two wires with crocodile clips at the other end
to each terminal of the bulb. Clip one end to the coil's
positive terminal, and the other to the coil negative,
or its terminal on the distributor. Switch on your key
to the "Run" or "Ignition" position (the warning lights
on the dashboard will light up). Repeat Step 4. If the
bulb lights up, it means the points are closed. Turn
the distributor anticlockwise until the light goes off,
which means that the points are open. If the bulb is
not lit initially, the points are already open, and you
turn clockwise to light the bulb and close the points.
Then turn off the ignition. Note that you must work
fast if you use this method, or else the coil may
overheat with the ignition turned on too long.
Alternatively, with this method, you can set the
multimeter to read voltage instead of a light bulb.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

wow thats right, there was life before electronic ignition

[Vios-GT_07]

it seems a timing light makes things much simpler..

yea it took me a while to see where the notch meets up with the marks to tell how many degrees of timing it's at... but it's worth it... i can't see those visual puzzles for shit but this is much easier once u get the hang of it.

maybe someone could enlighten Tham what to see using a timing light? all i can say it the notches on the crank and the fact the light blinks when the marks match up and point toward the notches (0 - 10 -15-25 or something like that)

[Tham]

Thanks, Vios GT. I already know how to use a
timing light, very straightforward. Just telling
Gti Boy how to do static timing if he did not
have a light.

I had one from the 80's to 90's and used it on
my Isuzu Gemini and Mitsubishi Cordia.

But it's long broken down and I had resorted
to static timing for my KE70 when it had points.
Accuracy is not that bad, probably within +/-
3 degrees.

I've recently switched over to an electronic
distributor however, so I'll have to get a new
timing light sometime.

[love ke70]

timng lights are cool. kinda like a strobe light, only useful ahahaa

anywho, did the timing on the ke70 today, was dead on the toyota spec 8 as i set it a year ago,wound it forward to 20 and took her for a run, went well, and seemed ok, just idling at 1500, so played with the carb, and in the engine bay you could here it knocking as you shut the throttle off and it returned to idle.
so i set the tappets, and wound the timing back to 15, seems better and isnt knocking, didnt get the chance to take her for a run tho. have to wait and see how she goes economy wise
p.s. this is on ULP, none of these premium mumbo jumbo for my old girl

[EldarO]

sucky fuel economy on BP Ultimate sucks teh wang!

20 litres/100k's is 10-11 psi, daily, city driven

Eldar.O.

[oldcorollas]

get lighter shoes

or a pushbike

[Tham]

yar, the aisan carbs are not so great..

Yes, I've always thought about converting
to a Nikki or Hitachi.

The Aisan's crappy idle is indicative of design
errors in the air-fuel mixture circuit and results in
improperly combusted fuel emitting in the exhaust.

Wished Nikki made direct replacements for the
4K - they're very economical and relatively reliable
carburettors, apart from a flooding bug.

I had an Opel (Isuzu) Gemini from 1983 to 1993, with
a Nikki. It idled really smoothly and steadily right up
to when I sold it, unlike the Aisan. It did overflow once
or twice though - I've heard this is a problem with
some Nikkis, particularly the one on the Datsun 180K
(L18 engine) in Malaysia during the 80's.

The Gemini's air filter also had a hot idle compensator
bimetallic strip built in, so one was not needed on
the carb, unlike that on the 4K's stock Aisan. All you
needed was a hose to connect it to the intake manifold.

I found this link, but received no response from them.

http://www.carbs.freeuk.com/nikki_carburetters.htm

[EldarO]

get lighter shoes

or a pushbike

had a pushbike, well, ive had around 6 or 7...

after the last one got stolen, that, along with the two before it being stolen too, kinda makes me not want to own another one

lighter shoes? i drive barefoot sometimes...

i cant help it, i love being pushed back into my seat by the neverending torque all the way up until redline, that said, im not complaining, if thats what it costs, so be it

Eldar.O.

[GtiRboy]

LOL ^^^

Well anyway people, i know i sort of ripped off thams thread but thankyou to everyone who helped with the timing thing.

Anyone know of any books or publications that help with the tuning of a KE70 4K-C or a carby engine etc?

[Killswitch]

My Ke70 gets about 10L/100k seemingly nomatter how I drive it... either hard or granny and it gets pretty much the same. Occasionally it'll go 9L/100K. On regular 91 octane too.

Timing is pretty normal I believe, how much could it be advanced on 91octane? Or knocking doesn't hurt these engines too much so just experiment?

Cheers

[EldarO]

knocking doesnt hurt these engines for half a shit, go for your life!

id thoroughly suggest running 98 though!

Eldar.O.

[oldcorollas]

knocking doesnt hurt these engines for half a shit, go for your life!

id thoroughly suggest running 98 though!

Eldar.O.

ahem...



knocking KILLS the rings and ringlands... ESPECIALLY for the later 3K and 4K motors with the repco/toyota pistons. they seem to be very fragile, and i've seen a few motors pulled down now.. only blowing a little smoke, with no rings or ringlands intact.

DON'T advance timing until it pings.... unless you want to rebuild.

91 octane is crap and no car should run on it 95-98 ftw. only advance timing as much as creates more power everywhere. any more is costing you fuel as the engines fights itself.