ta22 2t strugles to start and then wont idle

[anty109]

Ok heres what ive got

Rebuilt 2t engine with reground cam
Weber 32/36 (no choke)
I've had a electronic ignition distributor on it and have now gone back to a stock dizzy and coil
The coil Ive got is off a ae82 corolla will that be OK? or do i need a ta22 specific coil?
The plugs are fouled up because the first carb that came with the car was running way rich, so I'm replacing them next
I've got the ignition timing the best i can (10 degrees btdc) because i can't get the car to idle to set it with the light

I've been fiddling with the carb and ignition system for a while now and haven't gotten very far so i thought i would open it up to toymods members to give me some tips or maybe point out something i've missed

[ta22fan]

Check whether your coil is a 3-ohm or 1.5-ohm unit. The 2T is set up to operate with a 1.5-ohm coil linked with a ballast resistor (which is bypassed during engine crank). If you've got a 3-ohm unit with the resistor still in circuit, you'll be getting a weak spark - on start and when running. If you've got a 3-ohm coil - just bypass the ballast resistor all together, and it should run Ok.

[anty109]

Ok the coil that came off the ae82 corolla I think has a ballast resistor on the positive terminal and is bolted on the bracket which is grounded, so if its a 3 ohm coil just remove the ballast resistor off the coil? also how do i check if its a 3 ohm or 1.5 ohm.

And where is the standard ballast resistor located on the ta22?

Cheers

[anty109]

Also if I'm running the electronic ignition system its a crane cams xr3000 system will i need to run a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor with the coil?

[ta22fan]

Ballast resistor is usually fixed on to the top of the coil mounting bracket. Rectangular thing about 1-1/2 inches long. Main ignition lead will run from the wiring loom nearby to the rear of the resistor, and then a short insulated lead from the other end of the resistor to coil +ve. coil -ve runs to the dizzy. There should be another lead running direct from the loom to the +ve - that's the ballast bypass (only live when ignition is on "start").

The grounded thing is probably just a capacitor (little cylindrical thing?).

Check whether the coil has any identification stamped on it. Bosch coils are quite common - the GT40 is a 3-ohm coil. The GT40R is a 1.5-ohm unit.

If you've got a good multimeter you can measure the primary resistance (useful for checking whether a coil is still in good condition). The TA22 engine manual has info on how to do this - could dig it out if you need it.

Regardless - it's safe to bypass the ballast resistor for a short period (minute or two) just to see whether this gives you a stronger spark. Don't leave it like that tho - it'll cook your coil.

[anty109]

Ok well i dont think i have a ballast resistor on my car because my coil is getting quite warm and I was wondering why the coil was starting to smell funny. Ok so what i need to do is get a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor and run that between the switched positive on the wiring loom and coil? because I've tried a few carbs and they've all done the same thing so it must be the ignition system.

[ta22fan]

Sounds like you need to get this right to start with. The coil is designed to run fairly hot - but if it's giving off a smell - that's not a good sign. Replacements don't cost a heap - so I'd suggest buying a new one. Best results are a 1.5-ohm unit with ballast. This allows the coil to run cooler during normal engine running, but compensates for low voltage during engine crank by bypassing the ballast (that's why your headlights dim when you hit the starter). I don't think it will make any difference whether you've got the standard dizzy or an electronic replacement - this is all about the high voltage electricals to the spark plugs (I'm not an auto-electrician tho).

[anty109]

Thanks for your help I'll start by getting a 1.5 ohm coil with a resistor, could you post up a pick of your coil set up so I'll have an idea about what wires to use of the loom.

Cheers

[ToyTA22]

What my TA22 has is Black & yellow wire goes to ballast, a wire then goes from other side of ballast to positive of coil. A black and red wire goes to positive on coil, which is start only supply as Ta22fan said. If I can get time today I'll take photo and post up for you.
As said if coil smells when hot that is not a good sign. Reason a ballast is used is as said to keep coil cooler and reduce current through points, to make them last longer.

[ta22fan]

Here you go:

[anty109]

Thank you guys so much I've been struggling with this for a while now

[ta22fan]

No worries. I suspect that you could still have a fuel/mixture issue to deal with as well. That Weber carb may need tuning, which is notoriously tricky to get just right. And badly tuned carbs can easily cause very rough running (or no running at all in extreme cases). But based on your info - I'd say you need to get the HT ignition sorted anyway. A new coil correctly wired in will give you confidence that you've got good spark. If she's still not running right - it'll most likely be related to the carby.

[Silly Rabbit]

Where abouts in Vic are you Anty?. May be able to give you a hand if you live reasonably close.

[anty109]

I live in warrandyte

[Silly Rabbit]

I'm in Box Hill so only 20 mins away. I'll send you a PM a we can work out a time.