MRP 7age/9age 1900cc Stroker Kit

[nick.parker]

All apart of Bazda's plans for world domination
All these insane builds will delivery a power output so high it will rotate the earth to a new axis and New Zealand will geologically become the new Japan

It reminds me of "Chuck Norris doesn't do push ups, he pushes down the the earth" - that made me laugh the first time anyway!

Also keen on a girdle if its not too expensive - if not now, then down the track.

This girdle would go on top of the caps right?

As opposed to replaced the caps?

Nick.

[Bazda]

Yes girdle will go on top of the caps.
Will go over the oil pump holes as well.
Basically a 1 piece girdle.

I hope to build a 300hp n/a 9age one day soon. Next is to design a affordable dry sump bolt on system.

[Sam_Q]

A dry sump system is exactly what I am looking at at the moment. I don't want to spin another bearing or break the stock oil pump gears.

[Bazda]

A dry sump system is exactly what I am looking at at the moment. I don't want to spin another bearing or break the stock oil pump gears.

toda make billet 4340 oil pump gears which won't break. But are not cheap, something like $550nzd
If anyone wants them let me know.

The stock ones break from the harmonics of the engine.

[Sam_Q]

I know about those and their high price, it still wouldn't stop the oil pressure drop at higher revs.

[dnegative]

Why would the oil pressure drop at high RPM? Its a positive displacement pump, provided its got oil your sweet.

[Sam_Q]

I have no idea, however I have had multiple reports of it and even seen it in a video of it happening in real time.

Hey Bazda, what's your girdle going to be made of and how thick? How about some hardened steel reinforcing straps instead to go over the mains like the Tomei kit?

[-GT-]

My guess would be cavitation/thrashing etc - think about how fast it's spinning at 9-10k+ rpm and what that's doing to the oil as it contacts it. The pump is designed to operate effectively at a certain speed range, and like a propeller on a boat it works efficiently at a design speed and cavitates at higher speeds. Basically it has a 'drive ratio' a bit like a diff so you need the right diff ratio for the speeds you're trying to drive at. 7k rpm limit to 10k rpm limit is basically a 50% increase.

[Bazda]

I have no idea, however I have had multiple reports of it and even seen it in a video of it happening in real time.

Hey Bazda, what's your girdle going to be made of and how thick? How about some hardened steel reinforcing straps instead to go over the mains like the Tomei kit?

Sam,
I can make anything. Instead of the tomei straps I could easily make something similar but join all those straps together as 1 flat plate. That would be reasonable cheap to make out of steel. The tomei steaps help with cap flex but doesn't help with block flex.

The girdle I want to make would be 12mm thick alloy and would attach to the sump bolts.

[Bazda]

My guess would be cavitation/thrashing etc - think about how fast it's spinning at 9-10k+ rpm and what that's doing to the oil as it contacts it. The pump is designed to operate effectively at a certain speed range, and like a propeller on a boat it works efficiently at a design speed and cavitates at higher speeds. Basically it has a 'drive ratio' a bit like a diff so you need the right diff ratio for the speeds you're trying to drive at. 7k rpm limit to 10k rpm limit is basically a 50% increase.

That's why I will be designing a bolt on 3 stage kit.
Maybe even a 1 stage kit for the users who are not wanting to spend thousands.

[Stolic]

I can make anything...

I'm thinking.. Adaptor plate to mate an R154 gearbox to a 4/7/9a friendly bell-housing...

annnnnnd GO

[Bazda]

I'm thinking.. Adaptor plate to mate an R154 gearbox to a 4/7/9a friendly bell-housing...

annnnnnd GO

If you wanted this I can make it for you no probs. Just give me the r154 and ill adapt it!

[shrike]

If you wanted this I can make it for you no probs. Just give me the r154 and ill adapt it!

Hope thats the same with the gt4 gearbox and transfer case From memory I think one of the gearbox supports on the block just needs ground down alittle so the engine can be up right rather then leaned over haha

[Stolic]

If you wanted this I can make it for you no probs. Just give me the r154 and ill adapt it!

Cool man.. I'm still thinking about it at this stage. weighing up the cost of a R154 vs the "hard to findness" of a decent W58.

I know it's hard to say without the box to go off, but any idea how you'd go about it? Adapting a 1j or 7m bellhousing to a 4a block would be awesome but difficult? so I'm assuming you'd look at making a sandwich plate to mate the R154 to a 4a bellhousing, but if so which one? T50 bell too small? niteparts 4a-w58 maybe?
Sorry for the questions, just trying to gauge cost and parts required before I commit and buy a box

[Bazda]

Cool man.. I'm still thinking about it at this stage. weighing up the cost of a R154 vs the "hard to findness" of a decent W58.

I know it's hard to say without the box to go off, but any idea how you'd go about it? Adapting a 1j or 7m bellhousing to a 4a block would be awesome but difficult? so I'm assuming you'd look at making a sandwich plate to mate the R154 to a 4a bellhousing, but if so which one? T50 bell too small? niteparts 4a-w58 maybe?
Sorry for the questions, just trying to gauge cost and parts required before I commit and buy a box

I would need the box to see how difficult it is to adapt the 1j or 7m.
I would be using an adapter plate. The plate can either be on the gearbox side of the engine side. If you do the engine side you dont need to get another bell housing.
T50 bell housing too small.