help with engine mount?

[Supra967]

Can you get a pair of pre made LCA type bushes into a bit of hollow bar?

Square wouldn't rotate if that's what you mean? You just need some big washers either end of the horizontal bolt to hold it in axially.

I'm not really following what you want to do with the rectangle mount?

[wagonist]

The rectangular mount sits vertically with the plates top & bottom (connects the red plate to the small black circle)
Therefore, it's sitting on top of the bolt pushing downwards
And the red plate is bolted to the top of the mount pushing downwards on it.

The rectangle is because, looking downwards, the hole where the mount sits is rectangular.

[thechuckster]

why not get a mount that roughly fits your needs, modify to suit, hold together in a jig, dig out any damaged/melted rubber from welding, fill the entire void with layers of sikaflex (252 is the go I think) and chux cloth and crumbled rubber.

fwiw, TerryO's rebuilt 3SG(T)E mounts are done in a similar fashion and cope with some serious abuse.

If you need to bond to a flat surface, drill & tap bolts into that surface with the bolt head proud of the surface.

If you are worried about the mount twisting apart, put a long M10 bolt right thru it with one end floating (to allow the mount to deform) and the other end well seated into threads.

[Supra967]

The rectangular mount sits vertically with the plates top & bottom (connects the red plate to the small black circle)
Therefore, it's sitting on top of the bolt pushing downwards
And the red plate is bolted to the top of the mount pushing downwards on it.

The rectangle is because, looking downwards, the hole where the mount sits is rectangular.

So you'd want to find a mount (isolator) that has a horizontal eye plate one end and a vertical bolt the other?

Thinking reuseable stuff here... LCA from wrecker with cheap available after market bushes (like the ebay ones for landcruisers and shit like that) Cut the LCA bush section off the arm and weld a plate to fit the engine side bolt in.

[Cuzzo]

I've welded to a engine mount before and it was a bit hit and miss ..

Some stuck some broke the rubbers

[wagonist]

why not get a mount that roughly fits your needs, modify to suit, hold together in a jig, dig out any damaged/melted rubber from welding, fill the entire void with layers of sikaflex (252 is the go I think) and chux cloth and crumbled rubber.

You know of any engine mounts with about a 40mm diameter? I've been looking. Toyota got around this problem on the AE82 & AE92 by turning the mount through 90 degrees so that the bolt through the middle was across the car.

fwiw, TerryO's rebuilt 3SG(T)E mounts are done in a similar fashion and cope with some serious abuse.

If you need to bond to a flat surface, drill & tap bolts into that surface with the bolt head proud of the surface.

If you are worried about the mount twisting apart, put a long M10 bolt right thru it with one end floating (to allow the mount to deform) and the other end well seated into threads.

Twisting isn't really the problem. But I don't want it solid though. I've already had the front & rear mounts filled with urethane to retart the engine twisting under acceleration/braking. This already causes the car to "buzz" with engine noise.

Would a LCA take the force? It's not taking the weight of the vehicle (that should be on the spring/shock).

Thanks Cuzzo, that's a bit of my worry too. If I use the Pathfinder mount, the plate is thick enough (like 5 or 6mm at least) to drill & tap it to accept multiple bolts.

Newer cars seem to use a horizontal mount bolted to the rail with a single bolt out the top. This is what I'm trying to reproduce, but without the room for a round rubber

[Supra967]

LCA would shit it in. Few of the UZ converts were using this style (same sort of thing as an LCA bush):
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/motormounts.php

[wagonist]

The issue I see with those is that they are mounted longitudinally relative to the car with a north-south engine, therefore the twisting force of the engine is pulling sideways on them.
My motor is east west with that mount still north-south, so it's wanting to twist along the length of it.

Hence my plan to solid mount the bolt with a rubber mount above it.

I still want some give in the system somewhere. The car is used off road and may still get some rally use. I reckon I'd flog those bushes out within a couple of events.

nice idea though.

[Supra967]

ah sorry, i thought torque was clockwise to your picture.

If you check out the MacKay rubber engine mount catalogue, there's about 50 pages of photos for different engine mounts from different cars, might be something you can find there?

[wagonist]

All good.
Actually, I like the early FWD Corolla idea where that mount is done with the bolt across the car. Much less stress on the twisting of the rubber in the mount (but less resistance to it also).

I've been slowly going through the Mackay catalogue when I have a chance. No working computer at home makes it a little difficult currently.

[wagonist]

Ok, so 2 years on, and I'm back at this.....

I think I've got the mount part sorted (using an Exccel single cam steel mount so it can be wleded to), but now I'm trying to set up the height.
I've got half the mount bolted to the car, and I've got the other half of the mount bolted to the engine. The other 3 mounts are on the gearbox (2 on undersides of the bell housing & the other on the top at the end) and these are already in position.
I've got the engine supported by a jack under the sump to get it to the correct height.

Now I need to get any adaptor pieces in place.
But what I'm worried about is that under the weight of the engine, the engine mount would compress a little.
I should've got a picture of it, but basically, the bolt to the car goes through the middle, then the rubber arms go out each side & then up between 45 & 60 degrees to the outer ring. I've orientated the mount so that it's compressing on these "arms", not hanging on them.

Is this just a negligible amount, and therefore I should just ignore it?
Or should I lift the engine a small amount to account for the sag?

[Supra967]

Negligible. Although rubber arms sound odd.

[wagonist]

The mount is about 80mm diameter at the outside and is mounted vertically.
It's not solid and must take both a vertical loading from the outside ring tranferred to the central bolt, but also because the bolt is horizontal & along the car, must also take twisting force of the east-west engine (the mount comes out through the middle of the timing belt).

Looks a bit like this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-MO...p2054897.l5669

[Supra967]

Two bell housing mounts run north south?

[wagonist]

Yep. And slightly underneath. So the gearbox is pushing down on the central bolts, through the rubber to the outer rings.
I had them made "solid" with urethane a few years ago as they're particularly weak and absorb too much of the engine's rotational force (instead of it being put to the wheels )
Other mount on the top of the gearbox is still factory rubber.

Without the jack under the sump, the engine will hang on its own to about 15mm-20mm too low at the timing belt.