[reasonably] cold air intake for n/a?

[amichie]

Maybe your ECU is reading out temps in Fahrenheit?

[George]

not the case once more. It's computer program, not ECU which interprets data read from sensor as Celsius of Fahrenheit or absolute or whatever. Of course I set the Techstream to C. And when the engine is cold it gives me outside temp +- 3 deg.C. When initial temp is 15-20, it will build up to 60 in 20-30 minutes

[George]

Conclusion. Went to JDM wreckers. Bought Subaru Legacy 1998 (280hp) airbox, cat.# 46053-АС050 . Ordered brand new apexi power intake cartridge #503-N101. Fits my car perfectly and has some power headroom. Now I'm to weld custom in-out piping - thanks to airbox design it's going to be very short and simple. I'll post some pictures later on.

Now I'm concerned on intake pipe design. So it would make even a bees dick gain in manifold pressure while going past 100kph. And at the same time would not collect excessive amount of smashed bees (complete with bees dicks of course) when driving countryside.

[Supra967]

I had a six inch mandrel bent pipe cut on an angle (must have been about a 300mm opening) in the open air stream in the front bar in front of the radiator. As much as i willed the guage to move past 0, it never did at any speed, or even behave different to before. Not only that, the power increase had an awesome placebo effect, and the car overheat because the monstrosity of an intake blocked half the radiator.

It was fun to try, a little expensive and completely useless. Keep it simple, just poke it outside the engine bay. If you give your engine bay piping a bit of shielding you should be able to keep it quite cool.

[George]

That's very useful experience! Think I'll just weld 90 deg. bend to the outside pipe end so it would have little chance to catch a fly or a rock or something else and won't go for a large opening as per your recommendation. Thanks.

[thechuckster]

also consider how to deal with any water that gets into the pipe and the airbox. Ideally you trap the water before it hits the filter, but if it does, consider some kind of turn in the air flow as it enters the box (a vane or mesh panel redirecting the air) and then a drain below that 'catch' point.

Not sure what it's like to drive in a moscow winter but I'm assuming that road slush gets thrown up as muddy water and you probably don't want too much of that being caught in the filter media?

[George]

Nice consideration, too. Yes sometimes we have plenty of road slush in winter, but in many aspects winter is another story. The air is cold enough and no peak power is needed, to name just two. So I would rather think of two different intake pipe configurations.

Currently, Subaru airbox I'm using has input on its bottom and output on the top, with small drain provided on the bottom. And I plan to use 90 degrees horizontal intake pipe, so the air would see two 90 deg. bends before actually reaching the filter cartridge. I think that's adequate for summer use. Maybe I'll add extra pipe with additional bends for winter use (or even completely remove intake pipe for that period).

[George]

Pictures to sum it up




+4 deg.C on highway, +8 in city, +28 in traffic jam
Manifold pressure 98kPa (same as atmosheric), AND over 140km/h it's a bit higher (99-100)

Inlet pipe is 90 deg. bend, and outside air first hits airbox wall instead of filtering element. Drivability is heaps better. Low end is much better. More than happy with this mod.