Doing the 21/22r crank is much more difficult than boring the block.
You have to do some mods to the crank, also rods iirc.
Post in the tractor motor thread.
I tried searching but only answered a couple of questions I had so I'm asking the others here =)
I've heard you can bored the 18RG to a 2.2litre then chuck a 21R or 22R crank in there to get 2.4litre...
Now, Has anybody just done the 21R-22R crank without the bore? What would be the effect from doing this as opposed to the bore (As in revving, balancing etc etc...)?
I Also heard boring and stroking cuts into the revving characteristics of the 18RG quite serverely... So, I had a think about stroking my 18RG to 2.2litre (The safe point apparently) but I thought the crank would be a cheaper solution then paying someone to bore the block, seeing as I can get a crank from the wreckers.
What else is involved other then just fitting the crank? Would it need balancing? Is there more to it then just bolting the thing in? Is it actually cheaper then the boring then I think?
Thanks you.
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
Doing the 21/22r crank is much more difficult than boring the block.
You have to do some mods to the crank, also rods iirc.
Post in the tractor motor thread.
...... butt scratcher?!
Done =) Cheers!
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
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