How to install MV autos shiftbox into A340E

[SL666]

since he's running a aftermarket computer, i suspect that won't be the issue.

[sideshow]

the power is still there if the std loom was used
no matter what ecu he uses

this power powers up some sensors the idle motor
the purge solenoid and also the auto solenoids

so if the new ecu is just spliced into the old factory loom he might have this problem

its a common power to the engine

[chris davey]

I had to splice into the L,2 and D signal wires from the plug with the neutral start switch on it (so the dash gear indicator lights work) but the wires to the lockup and both solenoids have been chopped and are independent of the main loom now. They go directly from the solenoid to the shift box.

So I need to put a relay in to make sure that it completely shuts off all power.

If I currently have the negative on the shift box going straight to ground and the positive (12v) going into the o/d switch and then into the shift box how exactly do I wire up a relay?

Thanks!

Chris

[chris davey]

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

So which pins do I have to connect what to?

I think I would have 2 12v inputs, signal input from the o/d switch and then an output to the shift box. Is this correct? And what has to be connected to each pin?

[1JZ.747]

since he's running a aftermarket computer, i suspect that won't be the issue.

wont matter

[SL666]

chris: i forgot you were using the dash indicators etc.. have you checked you aren't getting some back voltage from those, making the shift box think the shifter is in a different position? maybe it only needs 3v or something to pick what gear its in, instead of 12?

[Thumper]

What's the conclusion Chris

[chris davey]

I haven't tested the other signal wires like 2 and D when it is L for about a week or so but when I was doing it they were at about .1V where L was at 12v.

I am just about to go and wire in the relay to the positive wire (attempt to) and I think that should fix 4th gear as it will mean absolutely no power to the shift box and solenoids so definitely go into 4th.

I am not sure how this will help 1st though?

Is there some sort of resistor or something I could wire in to each signal wire to drop the .1v to 0 and maybe this would only drop the 12v to 11.9v so when it is selected it won't affect the solenoids that are meant to be on?

[SL666]

you could wire in some diodes.

[chris davey]

Man I suck with electronics.

I will do the relay first and see if that fixes 4th. Have to wait for my electronically minded mate to get out of bed the lazy bastard!

Thanks

[SL666]

if after the relay is in, its still not workin, disconncect the solenoid wires, and make sure they are doin the right thing when not connected, that will eliminate back voltage from the solenoids...

[chris davey]

Relay is on.

Wired like this

30: 12v constant
85: GND
86: switched 12v power
87: power out to shift box

That is to help anyone else who is as clueless about relays as I was.

Quick test showed 1st, 2nd and 3rd working perfectly but not going into 4th even though I can hear the relay click on and off and there is definitely no power going to the shift box.

Haven't been able to check voltages as my dad is the voltage checker and is busy.

[chris davey]

I have checked the solenoids and it goes like this.

D input wire: OD off = 14.4v, OD on = 14.2v
Solenoid B wire: OD off = 12.8v, OD on = 1.8v

So I think that the solenoid is holding some voltage in and it would be best to put a diode on the solenoid B wire right? Leave the inputs alone?

What type of diode? I have some IN4007's here. They are still packaged with white on one end and red on the other. Does the red end face the solenoid or the shift box?

[Thumper]

Take the shift outer D for a couple of seconds and put it back in again, see if it selects OD.

[chris davey]

OK I am well and truly sick of this POS. I cannot get it to work.

The thing is just changing all the time. Now I am getting full power in and power to the correct signal wires and I am only getting 2v out in 1st and 2nd.

Does anyone know 100% that I can use a microtech ecu and split the signal to the stock ecu of cam and crank sensors so that I can use that to change gears? Or I know I could use an ma70 auto ecu as that is seperate but I think that would be more difficult and just make more mess with wiring.

If so, I will send this shift box back and wire it back to stock as I just want to fu(king change gears. Really shitting me now.