How to install MV autos shiftbox into A340E

[sideshow]

u have to work backwards then

put multimeter or test light on the solenoid wires
one at a time
and check for power when driving
if theres power comin ou tof box then check wiring near gbox

if no power comes out of box on one of the wires when driving then check wiring into gbox

if the input is ok and the output is not the mv box might be stuffed since u said u blew a fuse

[SL666]

I'd triple check the earth for the box..

[chris davey]

I don't really know what I did differently to 2 days ago but I just checked all the fittings on the plug were 100% continuity and now it seems to be working flawlessly. Can't take it for a test drive yet as it is raining but all the solenoids are doing what they are meant to.

Thanks for everybody's help. I hate electrical gremlins!

[Mr DOHC]

Can't take it for a test drive yet as it is raining

so!!!! we want vid

[Mos]

Unlikey but none the less possible, check the crimping and pins in the plug itself. Use a low ohms range and wiggle plugs, wires, etc around and watch the readings - they should not change.

Once had a broken pin because the wire twisted in production and sheared the crimp pin at the thinnest point - visually it looked OK from both sides of the plug but no continuity (not something you expect on a $60k piece of medical equipment...) Factory was so surprised it happened they wanted it back

Mos.

[SL666]

good to hear chris

[chris davey]

Now on a different tangaent but will keep in the same thread as it is all related I think.

Well, interesting day yesterday.

Got my MV shift box 100% sorted and everything was working the way it should. I had to go and test drive it though as it hasn’t had on road testing just theoretical testing.

So as usual my Dad is driving and I am in the passenger seat with headphones to knock sensor and laptop in hand. Pull out of my driveway and it is ok so far but when he went to change into 2nd it didn’t want to do it.

Pulled over and it seemed ok so we kept going to end of street (50m away) and when we stopped it clonked out. Took Dad about 3 goes to get it out of the intersection as it wanted to stall when it was put in gear.

So we got out and we are just heading down the street but it still didn’t seem like it was getting out of first. Anyway, about 150m up the road the fucking pigs are pulling out from the local maccas! At this point, I am wondering how my luck is as this is the last 3 outings the piggies have seen me. So we stop at the red light and they pull up next to us. I quickly took headphones off and hid laptop but the car is very noticeable. I was looking straight ahead but Dad said he saw the passenger checking rego. (it is registered!). Lights go green, we nearly stall it again and the piggies take off! Pheeeeewwww!!

We take the next left and go and park in a cul-de-sac so I can test the solenoids as it still isn’t getting out of 1st? Checked everything and it is all good. I then realised that my dad had the torque converter locked up the whole time and that was why it was stalling. So we head back home and this one time it changed out of 1st into what seemed like 3rd and it just slipped to the shithouse.

Got home, jacked it up on the stands and did some testing and it doesn’t seem to want to get out of 1st now whatever you do even though I know the solenoids are working so I think there is mechanical damage

So this will be bringing forward my torque converter installation as well as installing my spare box that has already been shift kitted.

At this point, I HIGHLY doubt I will be ready for the 5 July as I haven’t even started tuning for boost yet.

That is my story and I am Dale Kerrigan.

ok, it seems that I may have jumped the gun. I hope I have anyway.

Rang Mike today and he said to do some more testing with no shift box connected at all. Start in D and go down from there.

To my surprise when you put it in D it went into 4th, 2 was 3rd and L was 1st. So I put connected the shift box again and it goes straight into 1st no matter where the shifter is.

So that tells me that the box is still functioning correctly (it has the ability to change gears) but when it is electronically controlled it doesn't want to. I don't really understand why it can change gears the way it does with no power to the solenoids?

So I will double check that the shift box is functioning as it should and if that is the case which I am 99% sure it is, what is next to look at?

Thanks guys

[SL666]

You have some whacky issues bloke

[chris davey]

More testing just then.

What I thought was 1st was actually second so the other day it never went out of second which makes sense because of my very short diff ratio.

When I put cut the power to the shift box and put it in D I get 4th, 2 is 3rd and L is 1st. If I then put the power to the shift box again it goes into second. I can only remember trying this from L not 2 or D.

Third gear did not appear to slip at all when we tested against the foot brake.

Solenoids are all working as they should be sending the right signals and you can hear them clicking as you change gears.

???

[SL666]

I know when we were testing we had some odd results when the shifter position didn't match up to the solenoid input..

[chris davey]

Ok, more testing done.

I am 100% positive that the ground is good, checked with digital multimeter.

2nd and third are working now with the power to the shift box. When I switch the power off it should go into 4th but it seems to be holding some voltage in the solenoid even when it is turned off and when we manually ground solenoid B it then goes into 4th.

1st is the same. When going from 2nd to 1st, both solenoids have full power for second and when changing to 1st, solenoid B is holding 4v when it should cut to 0. This 4v seems to be holding it open and preventing it from changing into 1st. Could not get it into 1st at all with the shift box powered up.

This leads me to believe that the shift box is faulty as it should cut the power fully.

[sideshow]

if u want me to look at it i can bring tools up to brissy if u can bring car to me

i leave in 2 days so let me know

i wont charge you travel hehehe

[Thumper]

Chris..... There was no need to change the switch in the first place.
You need to put a relay on the box, so when you switch off the box it disconnects completely.. Remember! left over voltage on SC.

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...tml?1144315706

[Thumper]

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...tml?1144315706

I'm an electrical noob myself Chris, But i do know you need to run the main power source +12 via relay before the shiftbox or else it wont change into OD.

Do alittle test, After selecting OD, take the shift out of D for 3 seconds & put her back into D again, After that, swtich your shift box back on and it should select 3rd.

If this test works, Your getting left over voltage from your shift box and a relays a must.

[sideshow]

u might be gettin voltage feedback from the main power to the solenoids
this main power comes from the orig power to the engine
this power also goes to the solenoids and powers up the lockup converter and the pressure line solenoids

i was gettin feedback when i fitted my tip tronic and i wanted to have a switch to go full auto or tip tronic
but was gettin feedback and when i turned tip tronic off it still stayed on due to this power
coming back up the earth side of the solennoids and keepin it on

best thing to do is run the 5 wires to the soleniods completely free from the std ecu

this might not fit yr prob but it sounds familiar