Aftermarket ecu installation questions. (7mgte)

[doobs]

Id assume you should be able to dude.
Could you use the timing light and put the inductive pickup on the leads and see if it flashes?
I hope you get her going.

Cheers dude, Hope shes going when I get home

[kemicalx]

lol so do i, but i don't like my chances...

[camrygt?]

yeah you should see a spark.Do you have a hand controller for the ems? does it read somewhere around 150-400rpm when you crank the engine?
If it reads 0 the problem is not with injector or coil wiring. Check CAS and ecu config

[kemicalx]

well first thing i need to get a new battery.. the one i'm using is cactus and only lasts a couple of bursts before lacking enough juice to turn over the engine properly and justs gives out the starter motor "CLICK CLICK CLICK', i tried wiring the ems sync wire to the G1 trigger on the CPS instead of G2 like i had it, but it didn't make a diference...

I shall leave it for now as it's just pissing me off, but thanks for you help mate i'll check the rpm when the battery is charged again.

[camrygt?]

Most aftermarket ecu's including EMS don't register RPM properly unless the motor cranks fairly fast. In general they need 100rpm or so more than what the standard ecu would need to start, so a decent battery is always a good idea even a set of jumper leads and another battery as well until you get it all sorted can't hurt.

[kemicalx]

year the battery has helped keep the engine spinning but it doesn't seem to want to fire, data logging brings up some weird figures.. Like the engine temp will go from 11 at stand still down to -5 and then up to 235 for a bit during cranking?? Air temp also throws some funny readings at this time. I presume this is due to the starter motors pull on the voltage but I’m not sure..

It also errm.. "rev rev rev rev rev STOP" like the engine has seized, would this be due to the fuel getting squirted in and not ignited? It doesn't sound catastrophic, as if you leave it a bit the engine will then try cranking over again to the same effect.

With data logging on it appears RPM is registering correctly, though lambda is reading 14.7?? Which would have to be wrong. I'm going to play with the fuel a little bit, and check the timing with our timing light, and try again.

[mic*]

If you are not getting a spark when you pull the plug out and ground it and then crank the motor, i would be staying with that problem and finding the answer.

Put a screwdriver against any injector and you should hear it clicking or not...

Sorry cant help anymore.

[camrygt?]

the temp reading varying like that suggests the grounds are not as they should be and some voltages are being induced between the ground points when you crank the engine.

Normally the grounds for the air and water temp and map sensor if external to the ecu are all connected together and then connect only to the sensor ground wire on the ecu.
They usually stops any interference problems.

the rev rev rev rev rev STOP that you described sounds like the spark is going to the wrong cylinder at the wrong time ie firing very early on a cylinder when the piston is nowhere near TDC.

Are the coils/ignitors wired correctly ie in the correct order and the correct cylinders.

It is rare for what you described to be fuel. If added gradually the engine just pumps it away down the exhaust.

Ignore the lambda readings it means nothing until its running and warmed up.

are the coils firing in wasted spark or full sequential now? if sequential they should be paired up as 1 and 5, 2 and 6, 3 and 4 the same as the injectors and then driven from outputs 1,2,3 respectivly from the ecu?

Is the position for the dizzy in roughly the factory position? ie not fully advanced or something

[kemicalx]

man thanks for all the tips,

I'll check the grounds for the sensors, i think i have most of them grounding to a bolt on top of the head beside the fuel rail, in regaurds to the rev rev rev stop, i'll check that with a timing light, and am pretty sure it's well out of whack.

As far as i can tell the coils and ignitor are wired correctly, i'm using wasted spark and here is the how they are wired,



Injectors:
Yellow to cylinders 1/4
White to cylinders 2/6
Blue to cylinders 3/5

Coils:
Pink/Black to coil 1/6
Grey to coil 3/4
White to coil 2/5

[camrygt?]

Injectors:
Yellow to cylinders 1/4
White to cylinders 2/6
Blue to cylinders 3/5

Coils:
Pink/Black to coil 1/6
Grey to coil 3/4
White to coil 2/5

Sorry the cylinders were wrong in my last post the pairs that you have here look right for ignition
but I think they should be in the order of Pink/black to 1/6, Grey to 2/5, then white to 3/4
anyway have a look at this diagram
http://www.microtech-efi.com/downloads/26.pdf

Also I am pretty sure the injectors are paired wrong going off the above microtech diagram.
If you want to double check that find the 1JZGTE diagram (probably on toymods somewhere) and check what pairs they are in, they fire 2 injectors at a time

[kemicalx]

yer thats how i thought the injectors should be wired to be honest. But that is how the wiring loom it came with was wired up, i thought wasted spark coils didn't fire both leads at the same time or something (do they?) and presumed this was why they were wired the way they are.. But looking at it, I think your on to something

[thechuckster]

waste spark fires one coil at a time - which then fires two plugs at a time.

Get two ignition outputs wrong and it wont run.

Sensor readings flying all over the place (e.g. your coolant going from 11 to 256 during cranking) suggests you have a bigger wiring and interference issue to solve, Make sure the earths going to each sensor aregoing to common earth point. You also only want one end of the shield around the CAS wire to be connected - dont ground it at both ends.

[kemicalx]

hmmm,

well i'm confused i must say...

The standard 7mgte loom has injectors 1/4 2/6 and 3/5 paired so they would both fire when triggered,

Yet the coil packs fire 1/6 3/4 and 2/5 at the same time... i really don't understand that??

can someone confirm that the standard coil packs fire both leads at the same time. I know with wasted spark it uses the exhuast stroke to fire again, so that would suggest it fires the two leads connected to each of the 3 packs at diferent times... and that would explain the weird injector wiring,

However even if this is how toyota do it, i don't see why EMS would wire it like that if judging by that microtech diagram you wire the cylinders identically
Argghh this is doing my head in.. I want my car going damn it!

[kemicalx]

Here is the standard 7mgte igntion wiring if it's any help, as far as i can tell it looks like the coil packs fire both leads at the same time.

[thechuckster]

it's common that there's more than one injector firing for each spark event (my 18RET has all injectors firing each single spark event) - so dont expect the injectors to be plumbed the same was as the spark plugs.

The DLI system uses two inuts from the ECU (IGDA & IGDB) to detemine which of the 3 coil packs to fire, the IGT signal is the trigger-to-spark signal. IGF is a signal back to the ECU to say that the spark event was successful.

The sensor outputs do not go straight thru the ECU to the igniter.

(see page 9 of <http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf>)

Spark pairs will be based on crank position - when #1 is at TDC for an ignition event, #6 will be TDC at an exhaust stroke. The pairs should be 1/6; 3/4; 2/5.

(see page 10 of same PDF)

Re: injector pairing ... the same site suggests pairs of 1/5; 3/6; 2/4, with 1 pair or more firing at each spark event.

See page 15 of <http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf> as it shows you how they injection events occur in relation to ignition events.

cheers,
Charles.