Reliable 9000rpm 4A. Am I dreaming?

[Billzilla]

whilst we are still talking abotu this... ish...

go to this link for some pics of TRD formula atlantic dry sump.
shows inside of the sump etc... btu unfortunately cannot see windage tray

Dry sump setups typically don't use windage trays, only crank scrapers.


(Gone for three weeks on a 4WD trip, starting right now. Catch ya when I get back guys)

[WDE_BDY]

Just be aware when looking at dry sumps, the 16V version wont fit the 20V block. Will find the details and post shortly.

Callum

[WDE_BDY]

Yeah I have been draging the chain on this one, was a busy end to last year with buying a new house, working on my brothers car, and work.
But an update on whats new,
Finished all the gear to mount the drysump pump to the motor.
Finished new Flywheel for the 5.5" tilton clutch .see pic.
Plates laser cut so I can start on the exhaust manifold
Big front mount intercooler sitting down stairs in the new Jimtune garage.
So I need to get the bottom end finished and together in the next month, have to make a custom sump for the 20V as my TRD one only fits a 16V, then get some manifolds made while I sit a 20V engine into the car, still heaps to do but making progress all the time, also going to run 2 sets of injectors one at the inlet manifold the others and the intake end.

Damn thats a light flywheel.

By the way, why does the 16V sump not work, I thought only difference was head and pistons?

Callum

Hi Callum, the 20V and 16V blocks are slighty different at the bottom, the 20V one has a recess on one side, the 16V blocks have straight sides along the bottom of the block
Yeah and its VERY light, got big plans for this motor!!

Thats from a guy successfully running an Atlantic spec engine in his Starlet in NZ.

Callum

[oldcorollas]

yah, on the yahoo ad, they also mention the 16V sump not fitting on the 20V... they also mention that the RWD mounts may interfere with that pump too..

[Toycrash]

Late 16v blocks are the same as 20v. The recess is due top 4wd setup...

[30psi 4agte]

interesting !!

will have to get some comparo pics up!

[oldcorollas]

so anyway, i found this on yahoo auctions and remembered this thread...

http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n51031742
supposedly from N2 series? looks very solid!!
worth a buy perhaps? or a copy? just for high rpm or also for high boost?
around $250 so far...
what would something liek this cost to machine up?

edit., it's an SS works one i put on last page, retail is $1100-1200



(uploaded for when yahoo pics go down)

[spectral]

what would something liek this cost to machine up?

If you design it in CAD, and supply material... then about $400. About 30 mins of programming, then 90mins of CNC time depending on machine capabilities.

Then extra ones at probably $300 each as the hard work (programming) is done.

[oldcorollas]

so similar to the $500-550 it went for then? (but half the original RRP)

[spectral]

so similar to the $500-550 it went for then? (but half the original RRP)

As with anything made on the CNC mills, the more you make the cheaper it gets. If you wanted 10, it would more like $250 each. Operator doesn't have to change programs etc, so its more efficient. Plus they could do 4 at a time on a largish machining centre.

Quite often some of your biggest costs is the downtime between jobs. Setting up the billet takes a bit of time.

Also your material costs are a lot less if you are buying more.

A typical single piece of 6000 series billet about 200x400x60mm would be around $80. If you bought 1000x800x60, it would be less than $800 if you know what I mean.

I'm sure if you were prepared to invest a bit of cash you'd make a tidy return on them if you could sell them for around $500 each.

[mullett]

The biggest bit there would be having someone who knew their way around a good CAD program, and also had all the dimensions and specs on-hand to actually draw the thing in the first place. That'd be a fair bit of time and money, unless you could do it yourself/knew someone. I could organise for something like this to be done, but it would cost a fair bit (mind you, spectrals estimates don't sound too far off), if there was a market for it...

RM.

[spectral]

Its not a difficult piece to design in CAD. The tricky part would be getting the dimensions. The height of the extruded section to bolt to the top of the mains caps would be a difficult one to measure. The cutout for the crank throw as well. The rest would be pretty easy.

Oh and the extended mains bolts wouldn't be cheap either .. so thats another cost

Getting back ontopic.... I'd think that unless class rules prohibit it, if you need to go to these lengths to get a motor to produce ~200Hp... then its time for more cubes or boost . 3SGE can usually be fitted where a 4AGE would normally resides.

Or if it was for my clubman, I'd go straight for the Hayabusa engine

[30psi 4agte]

so anyway, i found this on yahoo auctions and remembered this thread...

http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n51031742
supposedly from N2 series? looks very solid!!
worth a buy perhaps? or a copy? just for high rpm or also for high boost?
around $250 so far...
what would something liek this cost to machine up?

edit., it's an SS works one i put on last page, retail is $1100-1200



(uploaded for when yahoo pics go down)

Spewin i didnt

[30psi 4agte]

so anyway, i found this on yahoo auctions and remembered this thread...

http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n51031742
supposedly from N2 series? looks very solid!!
worth a buy perhaps? or a copy? just for high rpm or also for high boost?
around $250 so far...
what would something liek this cost to machine up?

edit., it's an SS works one i put on last page, retail is $1100-1200



(uploaded for when yahoo pics go down)

Spewin i didnt see that earlier !!!! I would have snapped that up for sure !!