(Help) Take a look at my ECU MAP's for 4AGTE?

[Drew]

also i think the base timing should be checked so you know where the actual timing is

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

correct, base timing is suspect, needs to be checked.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

Confirmed that tune is not the cause of this problem. basically the car is normal (rich, but normal) up to 10ish PSI around 4500rpm (dave correct me if I am wrong here) and then the power just drops and remains steady.

The fuel table goes spastically rich there but it was like that before and thus we concluded it is not the cause of the problem.

Something else that has been done to the engine/wiring is amiss and causing the issue. Also, we have almost ruled out any CAS wiring/noise problems as signals are good, with no signs of any erratic RPM readings, etc associated with faulty/incorrectly wired crank angle sensors.

To be continued.............

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

possibly warrants a trip by myself and one of my tuning off-siders to Brissy to take a closer look

[dave_101]

Well I received the original MAP's from Ian yesterday and I can confirm they are the exact same MAP's that are in the car now, so since when I dropped the car off at this mechanic it was pulling hard to redline and running 14psi it looks like something else is wrong. RT40 and I played around with the ignition maps big time yesterday with pretty much the same results each time, car hits about 11psi to 12psi and there is this big drop in power, it's really sudden as well. Below is parts of an email I just sent RT40, would not mind hearing anyone elses thoughts on the below. The only thing left RT40 and I are going to try tomorrow is to reduce the fuel MAP for the 21.8psi section of the MAP a bit to see if this makes any difference at all.

Something I thought of last night to try was to lower the boost down from about the 13psi it was running with all the last tests to about 9si for the tests today.

I had it set to 9psi for the first run, it almost ran perfect hey, there was no power drop like there is when it’s set to 13psi. It ran as well as could be expected being on only 9psi and the shitty maps, but much better than when it’s set over 10psi. So I pulled over and turned it up to about 12psi and right away the moment it got to about 11psi to 12psi there is this big sudden power cut.

Funnily enough while I was on the side of the road adjusting the boost another AW11 drove past and the guy stopped, he came for a ride just after I turned up the boost and he felt the power drop as well, best way to describe it is really sudden which is what he said as well, so I pulled over and dropped it back to 9psi and we both felt the same thing which was that sudden power drop was not there anymore.

He said he had the exact same problem with one of this cars and something about an actuator on his wastegate was the cause, gave the exact same symptoms I was getting. Are there any situations any of you can think of where a wastegate is not working correctly and would cause this sudden drop in power only when the turbo is set to over a certain boost level?

Just before I picked the car up the mechanic said there was something going on with the wastegate, but he did not really explain what it was, would love to hear anyone's thought's on the above.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

one would think that if boost is being controlled (you are able to wind it back to say 9psi and it does this with ease) then the wastegate is suitably sized and in working order. ie. if wastegate was not opening = free boosting, if wastegate was stuck open = next to no boost at all, if wastegate port not big enough = boost spikes, over-boosting, etc

I would of thought if the actuator has a buggered diaphragm then it would fail to open the wastegate flap? as i think that is the only way an actuator could fail?

As the maps being the originals that worked and pulled hard all the way to redline verify that it is not a tune related problem, I am wondering if there is something silly going on with the wastegate flap/actuator, etc.

Can you throw up some pics of the actuator/wastegate setup if possible please? (forgive me if they are elsewhere and I am too ignorant to find them :-) )

[RA35GT]

Dood, the tacho (rpm gauge) dropping out and the computer rpm not dropping out suggests ignition issues to me. (i.e. possibly faulty coil/igniter or maybe computer cutting spark??)

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

apparently they had to do something dodgy to get the tach on the dash working. So I hope the dash hardware is not pulling the tach pulse down above a certain rev range. That wouldnt explain why it revs out fine with a lower boost setting though?

[Drew]

its late, but the logs while not great are not as bad as thought they might be. Will have another look tomorrow.

how about something nice & simple,pull the plugs & have a look, give them a clean,check the gaps, maybe close them up a bit & see what happens ?

[RA35GT]

So the workshop wired up the tacho? If so, I'd try disconnecting the tacho and see what happens.

Your right though, not sure how it could cause a boost related issue, but it should be easy enough to rule it out though.

It's probably going to have to be a case of undoing everything the mechanic has done systematically to find the cause of the problem.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

agreed, Dave-101 should undo each thing the mechanic did systematically to find the problem.

[dave_101]

I did some more testing today, I took out the plugs and changed them over as one of them looked a little suss, but that made no difference.

The whole time RT40 has been saying the fuel map looks spastically rich, particularly on the 21.8 section of the grid, so I finally got the balls up to play with the fuel map today. I took 30 points off each section of the 21.8 grid and took it for a drive.

First thing I did was turn up the boost to 12psi, right away there was a difference at this boost setting, 2nd gear which bogged down before seemed a lot better, I didn't really test 12psi for more than two boosts and then pulled over and set it to 14psi. Now at 14psi is was not as good as 12psi but there was a difference for sure, the most noticeable was in 3rd gear and that seemed almost perfect, possibly because it was using lower rpm and slightly less fuel than 1st or 2nd going into higher rpm and higher fuel levels on the grid. 2nd gear was still a bit funny and I could see un-burnt fuel coming out the back at over 5000rpm but even then it was still a lot better than it was before.

So I think the best thing to do now is for me to re-hook up an LC1 and try and lower the fuel levels for the 10.9 & 21.8 sections of the fuel map and see if I can get it running well. As I said above it was really good at 12psi with the changes made to the 21.8 section of the map, I would have to say close to how 9psi was running before, the 14psi was def better than what it was before as well particularly in 3rd gear. I think with an LC1 I should be able to work out for sure if it's tune related and if it is then possibly get a whole new map done for it.

Fingers crossed that it's fuel related and I can get it sorted. I have no idea why it was running fine on these map's when I dropped it off and running like crap now with the same maps, but seeing the difference pulling some fuel made I am just going to go down that path now to see if that fixes it.

Thanks again everyone for taking a look and helping out, will post up more results once I have an LC1.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

cool! I am more than happy to offer my services if you are willing to get myself and a competent off-sider to you for the day or overnight or something one weekend. I can bring laptop, wideband, timing gun, any else you may need. Beers will be required however

[Drew]

allright do you have a wiring diagram for your lc1 ?
you need to be able to see whats happening with the mixtures too have an accurate idea of the effect your changes make, I agree the fuel map looks to be very rich under boost.

has there been any changes to the fuel system ,pump,reg,injectors ?

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

the lc1 controller was thieved by the "mechanic" in question. I have already been down that path with Dave-101. I sent him a photo of what the unit looks like and he has the 02 sensor and the innovate gauge, but no lc1 controller. Which is a pity, as I was going to talk him through how to wire it all back up if he had everything.