AE92 engine removal - quickest way???

[stradlater]

Ah. gotcha.

Well that was my plan, but I hadn't dealt with front wheel drive shafts before.

so really it's a question of - how hard is it to pull the shafts out the hubs and then out the gearbox? doesn't sound too hard - but then again I haven't tried.

[frostyadonis]

if you decide to remove the unit from the top, just remember the engine and trans are wider than the chassis so keep your hands/fingers well away from the chassis ends, because they will get crushed.

sounds like your not equipped enough for this project. may i recommend a bbq and invite some fellow toymodders to assist, lol.

[Casey-G]

Podge bar, keep spinning it aroung till the circlip falls in its gap inside the box makes it much easier.. can take a while sometimes, just pry the fuck out of it.

[stradlater]

Equipment is not the problem. It's not like I haven't ripped an engine out before.

My only variable is the half shafts as I haven't done a front wheel drive set of axles before.

[stradlater]

Equipment is not the problem. It's not like I haven't ripped an engine out before.

My only variable is the half shafts as I haven't done a front wheel drive set of axles before.

[andrew_mx83]

I would recommend dropping the engine and transaxle including the front subframe out through the bottom of the car.

i recently did this, without the use of a hoist, jack, stands, crane etc.
we backed the car up onto a mates tow truck, unbolted everything and then simply lifted the body off the motor&box.

took about an hour



strad buy yourself a cordless rattle gun they are the BOMB.... its fucken awesome being able to take my "make life easy tool" to the wreckers with me

[banana_socks]

For removing the driveshafts from the gearbox, you can use a screwdriver but it would want to be a decent sized one. Wedge the end against the back of the tripod, and lever against the side of the gearbox. It'll come out easier with a quick whack, rather than sustained force.

The passenger side engine mount actually extends past the edge of the gearbox, so its not possible to lift it out vertically. You need to angle the whole thing so it actually clears before you can lift it upwards. Getting this right can be a pain, but the upside is you don't have to remove the suspension.

[The Witzl]

having pulled engines out of AE92s, AE82s and AE101s numerous times... i still find the fastest way is to rip them out the top.
If you are efficient and have the right tools at your disposal, you can have the engine out in under 2 hours.

So can you swap engines in a day - if you have a USEFUL friend to help, then it's possible, yes.... but i would allow an extra day for contingency.

The last engine swap i did was to pull the 7AFE out of my AE102, strip the motor down, replace the worn piston rings, hand hone cylinders, replace major gaskets, replace CV drives shafts, reassemble motor and put it all back together.
Took me 2.5 days, working entirely by myself.


My method for speedy removal:

1. Crack the wheel nuts and hub nuts on each front wheel, so that they are loose
2. Drain engine oil and coolant. Crack the FILLER plug for gearbox oil first (just to make sure you can!), then drain gearbox oil
3. Jack front of car up onto chassis stands, remove wheels
4. Remove brake calipers and discs (they get in the way), then unbolt the two large 19mm bolts holding the hub assy to the strut
5. Remove the large hub nut, then pull the hub assy away from the CV drive shaft, until the CV shaft is separated from the hub assy
6. Using a long shaft of some kind (i use a long metal rod) and a rubber mallet, tap out the passenger side drive shaft - try to place the end of the rod on one of the metal ridges on the INSIDE CV joint (closest to gearbox), and tap it away from the gearbox. I find that a couple of taps with the mallet, then rotating the CV shaft 1/3 turn and tapping it again works really well. Eventually it will just "pop" out, and shouldnt require massive force.
7. Remove D/S CV shaft, like above.
8. Disconnect all coolant lines, remove radiator
9. Disconnect all wiring from the engine, and move out of the way
10. Disconnect accel cable, speedo cable, gear selector cable(s), vacuum lines, and any other hoses and shit that would attach the engine to the chassis
11. Unbolt and remove exhaust manifold from engine and exhaust pipe. Remove from engine bay (otherwise its in the way)
12. Disconnect fuel lines, and BLOCK THEM OFF with some spare bolts you have handy. You dont want fuel everywhere!!
13. Check that there is nothing still attached to the engine other than engine mounts. Double check again... have lunch, then check again. (trust me, almost every time i end up forgetting some hose or wiring and almost snap something when hoisting out the engine... not cool!)
14. Connect up your engine crane to the engine, and take up the slack on the engine.
15. Start upbolting engine mounts. I find easiest to start with the bastard one at the back of the gearbox (most rearward), then the D/S, then front of engine, then P/S mount that's on top of the gearbox. Remember, just remove the large 17mm bolts for now, dont undo the whole mount from the chassis.
16. Whilst undoing mounts, continue to ensure engine crane is holding up the engine!
17. Once all mounts ondone... look at the P/S mount on top of the gearbox... you will see that has 2 plates, one bolted to the gearbox, and the other bolted to the 1st plate - you need to remove BOTH from the gearbox, otherwise they catch on the chassis
18. Now... start hoising out the engine. I find that tilting the engine up at the D/S helps, then lift engine up, and you will find the engine slots out relatively easily. An engine balancer makes VERY light work of this "tilting"

And there you have it. Engine removed.

[Talasas]

Using a long shaft of some kind (i use a long metal rod) and a rubber mallet, tap out the passenger side drive shaft - try to place the end of the rod on one of the metal ridges on the INSIDE CV joint (closest to gearbox), and tap it away from the gearbox. I find that a couple of taps with the mallet, then rotating the CV shaft 1/3 turn and tapping it again works really well. Eventually it will just "pop" out, and shouldnt require massive force.

Agreed, this is how I've always done it and it does the least damage and comes out in a couple of minutes.

[thechuckster]

just a suggestion/hint: crack the large hub nuts with the car still on the ground, in-gear and with a wooden pole between seat and brake pedal locking up the brakes. Tried to do it to the GT4 once with front up in the air and required person mashing the brake pedal and a frankestien arrangement of jemmy bar & hastily fitted wheel nuts to stop the hub turning.

[The Witzl]

Chuck is correct. This is why i have cracking the hub nuts as job no.1.
You will need a 32mm deep impact socket, as well as a long breaker bar (at least 1m) to crack them loose. You might need to remove the wheel to get the split pin out first.... but you DEFINITELY need to have the wheel on the ground with full weight of the car on the wheel, gearbox engaged in 5th, handbrake on and wheels chocked to undo the hub nut..

[BLK_20v]

having pulled engines out of AE92s, AE82s and AE101s numerous times... i still find the fastest way is to rip them out the top.
If you are efficient and have the right tools at your disposal, you can have the engine out in under 2 hours.

My method for speedy removal:

1. Crack the wheel nuts and hub nuts on each front wheel, so that they are loose
2. Drain engine oil and coolant. Crack the FILLER plug for gearbox oil first (just to make sure you can!), then drain gearbox oil
3. Jack front of car up onto chassis stands, remove wheels
4. Remove brake calipers and discs (they get in the way), then unbolt the two large 19mm bolts holding the hub assy to the strut
5. Remove the large hub nut, then pull the hub assy away from the CV drive shaft, until the CV shaft is separated from the hub assy
6. Using a long shaft of some kind (i use a long metal rod) and a rubber mallet, tap out the passenger side drive shaft - try to place the end of the rod on one of the metal ridges on the INSIDE CV joint (closest to gearbox), and tap it away from the gearbox. I find that a couple of taps with the mallet, then rotating the CV shaft 1/3 turn and tapping it again works really well. Eventually it will just "pop" out, and shouldnt require massive force.
7. Remove D/S CV shaft, like above.
8. Disconnect all coolant lines, remove radiator
9. Disconnect all wiring from the engine, and move out of the way
10. Disconnect accel cable, speedo cable, gear selector cable(s), vacuum lines, and any other hoses and shit that would attach the engine to the chassis
11. Unbolt and remove exhaust manifold from engine and exhaust pipe. Remove from engine bay (otherwise its in the way)
12. Disconnect fuel lines, and BLOCK THEM OFF with some spare bolts you have handy. You dont want fuel everywhere!!
13. Check that there is nothing still attached to the engine other than engine mounts. Double check again... have lunch, then check again. (trust me, almost every time i end up forgetting some hose or wiring and almost snap something when hoisting out the engine... not cool!)
14. Connect up your engine crane to the engine, and take up the slack on the engine.
15. Start upbolting engine mounts. I find easiest to start with the bastard one at the back of the gearbox (most rearward), then the D/S, then front of engine, then P/S mount that's on top of the gearbox. Remember, just remove the large 17mm bolts for now, dont undo the whole mount from the chassis.
16. Whilst undoing mounts, continue to ensure engine crane is holding up the engine!
17. Once all mounts ondone... look at the P/S mount on top of the gearbox... you will see that has 2 plates, one bolted to the gearbox, and the other bolted to the 1st plate - you need to remove BOTH from the gearbox, otherwise they catch on the chassis
18. Now... start hoising out the engine. I find that tilting the engine up at the D/S helps, then lift engine up, and you will find the engine slots out relatively easily. An engine balancer makes VERY light work of this "tilting"

And there you have it. Engine removed.

I do it pretty much the same way as this. Forget about dropping it out the bottom, might be quicker getting out if you have a hoist, but putting it all back together will take longer...

Removing drive shafts, a clutch fork from a c series gearbox sits in nicely and 1 or 2 taps with a decently sized hammer sees them pop out undamaged as the fork sits nicely around the cups.

Dropping the engine back in if you have the right tools shouldn't take more than around 30 minutes to get the mounts lined up and bolts in. Get a leveller/balancer, well worth the $$$ and real cheap from ebay. When dropping it down, make sure the rear mount bracket is over the rear mount first, then the front and tilt it straight. I put the drivers side bolt in first, then passenger, rear and front.

Definately remove the plate that bolts to the gearbox for the passenger side mount as it gets caught on everything. Take the engine / box out as one, and put it back together with the engine out of the car. Allow an hour for taking the box off , replacing clutch etc and putting the new one back on.

Also worth putting bolts for radiator brackets / washer bottles, exhaust etc where they go on the car with the engine removed. Nothing worse than searching for bolts and getting grumpy.

[RT40Corona4AGTE]

..........

[The Witzl]

Get a leveller/balancer, well worth the $$$ and real cheap from ebay.

fuckyea..... i bought my engine crane off ebay and it came with an engine balancer/leveller, now i have no idea how i ever took out engines without one!!

Actually, yes i do! I used to get at least two mates to push down one end of the engine whilst i manouvered engine into place with the crane.... but with a leveller you can do the whole thing yourself.

[stradlater]

What's the impact if I pull out the uni's from the tripod thingies?

I did that today, they slid out easy, then back in easy too, plus I greased them more.

Is it going to expode?