Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[nuk1ear]

Yeh its kinda interesting how it is still getting a signal on the cam. Maybe because theres no ground, the cam was getting crosstalk easily into the G2 wire, and because it was set to raising edge (crank as falling) then it would be producing the same output but slightly different phasing.

Anyways, ill fix it up by the weekend and then get back into it. Now i gotta find someone to lend my a timing light again LoL

[knightrous]

Just a case of RTFM, which we've all been an sufferer of at some point

[nuk1ear]

ok, check out my latest composite logs. Still not correct yet, not sure if i should try adjusting those pots or to give that resistor a shot like u said.
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...6fe3e&start=20

[thechuckster]

adjust the posts first as per the manual (this should be a given seeing as it's in the manual for configuring the ECU to suit VR sensors), then try the inline resister (to further filter the incoming analog signal).

[nuk1ear]

theyre adjust as per the manual (fully CCW)

[nuk1ear]

Well, fixed the wiring, So i warmed it up, set the timing and its spot on. Then switched the ignition table back to normal (not fixed 10deg). Now its running great. starts up within a second or 2, idles well. I managed to tune it to a nice stable 950rpm idle last night. Logged a composite log while running and it was exactly how it should look, nice and clean, no sync loss errors while running.

I think i can judge this issue as solved now. Human error, as most Megasquirt issues usually are. my crank signal wires were around the wrong way. Ill need to see how i go when tuning as i might get some sync issues somewhere in the RPM range, but ill cross that when it happens.

Thanks everyone!

[knightrous]

Now do a nice write up on how you have set everything up and what settings you've got, then you can pass it onto future generations of MegaSquirt users

[toyota1515]

here if someone wants one i am selling this one i dont want to use this, it is brand new never used!

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...00#post1470500

[shrike]

so I may be installing a ms3x setup into a mates ae111 soon and due to the fact the bodyloom and engine loom are connected i have made a diagram to wire up the ms3 into it and have the factory ecu there to give signals to dash etc

pretty much the blacktop ecu wont control fuel or ignition or anything to run the engine it will just read the sensors etc anyone wants this let me know now its rough atm as I still need to confirm on the car

[caam]

Hi fellow megasquirt-ists

Finally got around to starting to wire up my 2TG efi today.
Just confused with the wiring of the TPS and the 02 sensor - and how they co-relate to the megasquirt.

The TPS I have is this one, http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p26.html
and the 02 sensor is an NTK three wire

I'm running a megasquirt 2 with a V3.0 mainboard and i'm using the DIY auto tune wiring kit.


Any idea of how I should go about wiring them together would be awesome
Cheers, Cam

[thechuckster]

Cam - what part number for the NTK sensor?

The only join (between 02, TPS, CLT & AIT) is - if the sensor is 4-wire - the earth-side of the O2 sensor (not the heater). That way all the sensors have the same earth.

The sensor part doesn't need a voltage supply like the TPS.

The drawing above has the earth for the O2 heater being earthed somewhere (or symbolically earthing via the item itself). I think (and this is why the part # would be helpful) the 3-wire jobs earth the heater via the sensor's body (where it screws into the manifold).


edit they (the common earth wire for the sensor) doesn't have to be in the order you see in the diagram. You could just bring them to a common point (e.g. at the ECU plug), crimp/solder join them into one wire, then connect that wire up the ECU plug.

[thechuckster]

shrike: are you sure the ECU is feeding dash info other than a tacho output? From that era of engine, there should be a separate temp sensor for the dash, the alt light & other wiring simply passes thru and some of the interconnect goes the other direction (e.g. circuit opening relay, EFI #1 & #2 relays, etc.).

Anyway sharing sensors that are resistive (TPS, CLT, AIT) isn't advised and I'm pretty sure that a VR sensor (e.g. CAS/dizzi) would also be an epic failed if shared.

fwiw, I approached the problem in my RA65 from the other direction, I worked out which signals the chassis loom needed, then either passed the wiring thru from the engine bay fuse/relay box or got the ECU to generate it.

[caam]

Sorry I worded that question slightly wrong, I understand the sensor return wiring.

The only part I don't get is the wiring of the TPS to the loom and the 02 to the loom

For instance the TPS is red-green-black whereas the loom is gray-blue then the black return line, and i'm not sure which wires go to which and don't want to ruin a good sensor
Exactly the same for the NTK 02

I will get the part# in a couple of minutes

Thanks, cam

[caam]

o2 sensor is this one

http://www.carpartsaustralia.com.au/...ducts_id=11636

If anyone can point me in the direction of which wires go where it would help me out awesomely.

[WDE_BDY]

Your sensor is -
Wiring information:

Red - Positive

Black - Earth

Green - Signal

Based on the diagram the earth (black ) goes to black/white sensor return. When I opened mine up all the earths are common along that side of the plug.

Grey is the power feed (5V from memory??) so goes to red, you can tell as it feeds the hall or VR as well.

Blue is the sensor wire so goes to green, not shared with anything else.

Hope that helps

Callum