Harmonics from the crank? It is driven directly off the snout...
Yeah, I would think the bearings would go first. Just pondering possibilities.
Andrew
Harmonics from the crank? It is driven directly off the snout...
Okay, time for a bit of thread revival.
Did you guys draw any conclusions on these Toga pumps? Are the gears really 4130 steel? I noticed they stopped selling them for a while, now they are floating around various online stores. I'm looking at replacing my stock oil pump soon and am trying to decide what the best possible oil pump is to get for my turbo setup.
Also, just as an aside, there are a few OEM Aisin pump available online, some on ebay and their price is much more competitive. So minus the "would you risk it?" question, is there a chance that other aftermarket/knock off pumps are made with worse quality alloys?
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
I have since been told that the reason oil pump gears break is due to a pressure overload due to the undersize outlet. It can be modified or alternatively a 7afe pump can be put in which is based on the TRD design. I am going to look into it myself.
Have had a bit to do with ford oil pumps too lately on some projects,
XR6T and some newer ford V8 race engine's which are all prone to oil pump failure.
They are saying it has nothing to do with oil pressure, cavitation etc etc,
all to do with engine harmonics and the rev limiter which causes massive speed oscillations in the crank.
Apparantly it applies to all engines where the pump gear is physically around the crankshaft.
- KE70 Corolla Dx -
- 500hp+ 7AGTE 20V turbo -
- MRS/Hayabusa turbo **sold**
- TA63 3TGTE project in the build -
Well there is a whole new level of vibration proofing that needs to be done nearing 10,000 rpm for most engine blocks, being a direct drive pump this would make sense.
In my case I'm not so worried about cracking of the pump gears as I am about getting a pump that has suitable flow with a turbo. While I'm not opposed to the OEM pump, I'm wondering if there's a better pump available in this respect.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
Well if the stock pump is suitable, none. Otherwise whatever pressure and/or flow changes arise from having an oil cooler and a turbo.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
You can always 'port' the stock pump. Grab your Dremel and round off all the sharp edges the oil has to flow around.
are these pumps the real deal? 4130 or just wana be's?
Worth there money or shouyld i just shell out for the toda one?
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
I stuck with the stock item, ported it and shimmed the relief valve for a bit more pressure at high RPM.
I've seen comparisons between OEM and Toga, and they look identical.
Id also stick with the stock or get the Toda gears.
1988 Toyota Levin GTZ 10.88 @ 209.57 340kw
Now 9AGTE 410kw atw
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Regarding TOGA pumps I am in the opinion that they are not high volume nor 4130 gears,
they might be shimmed for extra pressure but as we all know volume and pressure are
not the same. Lets just say low volume aftermarket billet oil pump gears cost a lot.
you learn something new every day.
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