How does it work: 4age oil pump?

[ArubaAe86]

Hi I have a TOGA high volume oil pump and want to install it. how does this connect to the crank shaft and how does it work? Does a part of the crank goes in the oil pump gap or not?
Here is an illustration of the Toga oil pump.




b.t.w. the original oil pump is the same size as this one.

Thank in advance for the help.

[Hiro]

Yes, the oil pump is driven directly by the crank (not through a belt or gear or anything)

[allencr]

b.t.w. the original oil pump is the same size as this one.

The gears/rotors are the same diameter & width? Then there is nothing high volume.
Was it put together clean & deburred & not stuffed/packed to the gills with grease?
Thanks.

[privatealpha]

The standard 4age oil pump is pretty damn good anyway.

[ArubaAe86]

The gears/rotors are the same diameter & width? Then there is nothing high volume.
Was it put together clean & deburred & not stuffed/packed to the gills with grease?
Thanks.

No the gear en clearance are not the same, they have tighter tolerances. Yes but I just want to know how it fits on the crank shaft.

[ArubaAe86]

The standard 4age oil pump is pretty damn good anyway.

Thank for the reply. Yes I know everything original are the best I just want to try this one as it is the only I could find at a reasonable price with high volume for this engine.

[ArubaAe86]

Yes, the oil pump is driven directly by the crank (not through a belt or gear or anything)

Thanks for the reply Hiro. I know that it is driven directly by the crank shaft but how? When the engine turns, does the oil pump turn directly or does it has to move e little bit to reach the teethes on the oil pump?

[Grega]

the pump is driven by the flat on the nose of the crankshaft. if you see those two parts you were pointing too - that sits on the flat piece. as the crank rotates so does the oil pump thus rotating the two meshed gears inside and pumping oil as a result.

[ArubaAe86]

the pump is driven by the flat on the nose of the crankshaft. if you see those two parts you were pointing too - that sits on the flat piece. as the crank rotates so does the oil pump thus rotating the two meshed gears inside and pumping oil as a result.

Thanks for the reply Grega. I understand what you are explaining. On the crank shaft there is two small "noses" and two big "noses" sitting diagonally from each other when inserting the oil pump on the shaft can it go either way? Or there is only one way to insert it?

[assassin10000]

There is only 1 way, its outlined in the FSM.

Take the back plate off, take a picture of the gear and measure the gear 'rotor' thickness. Post it up here. That would tell us what it's real value is compared to OEM. I did a lot of 'research' on the factory pumps to figure out what's the better one(s) to use.

Looking at the pic of yours, it appears you have the old style pump which should have a square cut gear. This is the one that's prone to failure and the reason why TRD made a stronger gear for it. That's why I would like to see a measurement of the thickness of the rotor gear and whats below the cover.

Andrew

[pandaah]

No the gear en clearance are not the same, they have tighter tolerances. Yes but I just want to know how it fits on the crank shaft.

this is not tru, you will find a higher volume oil pump will have a tighter pressure relief valve spring and will crack at a higher pressure, that with usually a bored out intake and outlet on the body pump that is all they offer as a "higher volume pump"

[pandaah]

btw if the pump is dry, make sure you pack it with petroleum jelly or some greese, and lightly smear the gear back and front so it can turn easily on start up..

otherwise when you first crack her up you WILL have no oil pressure, as the air in the pump wont let the pump do its job, the jelly or greese helps the pump with initial vacuum to suck oil from the pick up tube..

its not like you have to pack the crap out of it.. just try to half fill the gaps and wipe away excess and put backing plate back on.. simple

[ArubaAe86]

There is only 1 way, its outlined in the FSM.

Take the back plate off, take a picture of the gear and measure the gear 'rotor' thickness. Post it up here. That would tell us what it's real value is compared to OEM. I did a lot of 'research' on the factory pumps to figure out what's the better one(s) to use.

Looking at the pic of yours, it appears you have the old style pump which should have a square cut gear. This is the one that's prone to failure and the reason why TRD made a stronger gear for it. That's why I would like to see a measurement of the thickness of the rotor gear and whats below the cover.

Andrew

I tried to take the back plate of but it broke my screw driver right of.



It is machine tightened I think with some really hard thread lock. Or just me with my crappy tools lol

[Grega]

you need an impact screwdriver to undo the screws mate.

[ArubaAe86]

you need an impact screwdriver to undo the screws mate.

Yeah I will borrow one from my colleague tomorrow.