The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[MnToyGuy]

I'm not sure what plans they have. They do high end builds for customers worldwide and have interest in these pumps for future builds. Commonly, they do 18RC -> 18RG swaps, so I'd suspect they'll install in an 18RC they've pulled out of a customer's project. My machinist is confident we can hit around $175 per kit with the current design. Toysport is going to do a rockwell hardness test on a stock pump to see if we need to harden the rotor and ring.

[MnToyGuy]

Where has everyone plumbed in water cooling for the turbo? I've heard T off the heater lines, but I'd like to run AN fittings. Would running from the T-stat and rear block drain be a bad idea? I've got -6AN fittings in there already. That would make for a very clean install. How about T stat housing and tank on the radiator (return side)?

[o_man_ra23]

I fed from the thermostat bypass and returned into a T into the heater return circuit back to the pump.

[MnToyGuy]

Thanks Owen! That should be pretty much the same as out of the thermostat housing and into the block drain right? Or am I thinking like an idiot?

Just talked to Toysport and they got the pump and took it apart for inspection. They felt the mating surfaces were a little rough and sent it to their machine shop to "make sure it's going to work". Rough seems strange, as the original I got seemed about the same surface finish as the stocker. Maybe the guy running it in solvent scuffed it up. hmm, we'll see when I get it back.

[o_man_ra23]

You need to feed from the pressure side of the pump, into the turbo, then return to the supply side of the pump. As the lower radiator hose is on the supply side of the pump, and the block is on the pressure side, you need to feed from a point on the block/head. I chose the radiator bypass outlet of the thermo housing as this would always have flow right from startup. I chose to return to a T in the heater return for convenience.

[jabbatron]

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[roadkill]

Hi,

Doesn't kameari make a copper gasket? Surely they'd be good for the job?

bEn

[o_man_ra23]

Why did it blow? Are your head bolts not up to the job, are you detonating or was the gasket not up to the job? I would be investigating the former 2 before being confident on the third.

[roadkill]

Hi,

My guess is a 35yr old N/A engine isn't supposed to run 18 pound boost..................

bEn

[river]

Hi,

Would of thought he'd do more than a bhg pushing 18lb on an old stock na engine. And if this is the case, you got away lightly.

seeyuzz
river

[o_man_ra23]

Looking at the rest of the fire ring, it doesn't look like the gasket has been in the engine long. If the engine is stock, with stock head bolts, that's going to be a big part of your problem. Once the head lifts from the gasket, and you create a flame path between cylinders, it doesn't take long to lose the integrity of the fire ring. Clamping the head down properly with some quality studs will help to prevent re-occurance more than changing brands of gasket.

Now for another question, how are we going with the uprated pump mr mntoyguy?? I have an engine which is getting close to final assembly (head is being welded/machined to fix up the water jackets presently before the new stainless valves and bronze guides are fitted properly) and would like a good oil supply for the beast.

[river]

Hi,

Ooohhhh.... engine nearly done, eh Oman?

Good stuff.

seeyuzz
river

[MnToyGuy]

Toysport still has the pump and is waiting for a suitable engine (18RC) to come in a test. I message him every week or two. He wants to use the pump in all his RG builds, so we are at the mercy of Toysport for the time being.

Damien, Cometic makes copper HG's for the RG in various thicknesses. It was $80US when I got mine. Kameari is EXPENSIVE! I agree with others that you need to find the cause first. Then have your block O-ringed as well

[jabbatron]

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[o_man_ra23]

What did you torque the head studs to?