I just found a picture that may lead to other options for 18R oil pumps.
The design looks similar to that of Truimph Spitfire (and probably other Triumph/Brittish) oil pumps.
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/jtabell/part11.jpg
Good to hear witzl:
The log style turbo manifold is for an rg, i was going to use it but decided not to due the the t70 being so big arsed and i want it to spool really well, i got the stainless manifold (setup sits awesome in the engine bay) you can see for $200 delivered off ebay, im getting the flange that i bought off justen welded onto it for $80. i need the log manifold to give to my mate so he can match the spacing correctly without having to take the whole car in.
Just an update:
engine is currently made up of:
-bored 2.2L
-high topped forgies (i think comp is in the nines depending on the exhaust cam positioning)
-h beam rods (i think they are jaguar?)
-yamaha head ported n polished
-hardened valve seats
-big cams
-running the usual sidedraft solex's
-etc
-etc
the engine will be rebuilt with:
-super t70 turbo
-jdm 450x300x76 fmic
-sard 720cc injectors
-customturbo manifold
-saving for a motec m4 (i figured since ive already invested this much)
-i also going to modify (after some more research) the stock intake manifold so that the runners are exactly 550cc (as the engine is 2200cc) in volume and shave the rear of it off at about 30%
for the ra23:
-g series diff is also in, i need to change a bearing to get the 4.1 lsd in
-then disc conversion on the way
-also doing some research about a falcon front end now since the pug/cor/hil conv is so heavy and i may go to a five stud pattern
-u can also vaguely see in the pic above the line locker and the crappy door fuel pump
-front and rear chassis rails are going to be joined
-suspension and shocks upgrade can wait for now
Still need:
-wastegate (thinking tial 42mm, bang for buck)
-bov (plumb back for that real sleeper under the radarness)
-surge tank
-motec
-intercooler plumbing
-race seats
-harness
-and im working on some plans of a half roll cage, i have completed the stress analysis and it is also aligned with cams and street regulations (in sa and act that is as far as i know). Dunno if i will go bolt in or welded.
I think thats just about il of it for now. Im on budget and looking to have the whole lot finished for $5k, provided i do the body work and basic build (brakes, engine etc) myself. Was gunna go Microleb and get a Tilbrook to tune it over here but a mate from adelaide uni formula sae is going to help tune the motec instead.
Prob get to it by the end of jan mid feb by the time i save the cash and christmas passes, hopefully the sillycar will be on the road running an 18rgte in a couple of months and completely finished for the nats in 08.
craig
I just found a picture that may lead to other options for 18R oil pumps.
The design looks similar to that of Truimph Spitfire (and probably other Triumph/Brittish) oil pumps.
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/jtabell/part11.jpg
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
would anyone be able to tell me what sort of ballpark figure i would be looking at for an exhaust system from the dump pipe back, i was thinking 3", i dunno if i care if its not stainless
anything would help
craig
Steve,Originally Posted by Steve M
the design would be similar to many different types of oil pumps... the problem is getting the correct diameter with slightly taller height, correct shaft length and diam and the the slotted end to spin the bastard....
Lots to look at, there would be.
...... butt scratcher?!
have any of your guys thought about independent throttle bodies
tweakit.net in sydney have them although very expensive
i was thinking maybe hybusa itb and then a *cough* custom (dodgy backyard) plenum
any thoughts?
i searched ebay and toymods but without looking through 100 pages for a one sentence thats irrelevant...
ITB's dont work well with boost, jsut use a normal turbo plenum.
Hayabusa GSXR 1000 throttle bodies are a good size for a N/A 2.0ltr such as an 18R-G.
Search google for hundreds of sites on how to adapt them to any engine.
Originally Posted by skiddz
Bang for buck...not worth the hassle. The other major consideration is that ITB's are very very hard to tune for FI. It's hard to get a good vac signal and the flow change on partial throttle on boost is very high so results in a brief lean out....eventually a brief bang!!
If you run an AFM it's alot easier but kinda defeats the purpose of ITBs eh
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Originally Posted by JustenGT8
Conflicting stories Justen... it sounds like you get a good bang for your bucks!!!Originally Posted by JustenGT8
Oh, i get it, you only get a BRIEF bang. After spending all those dollars you want your bang to last just that little bit longer.![]()
You clown![]()
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I have installed a set of ITBs on my 18R-G using the original intake manifold and intake "plenum". You can see it in my project´s topic in this forum(http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3620) or you can check my project´s web page (www.celicagt.com.ar).Originally Posted by SillyCarS
This pieces are being manufactured in a company here in Argentina and a 4 cylinder kit exactly like mine can be bougth for US$500 (plus shipment and other costs related to international trades). A kit comes complete with linkages, fuel rail, trumpets, etc. It does not include sensors neither actuators.
There is also a much shorter model (30 mm instead of 118 mm of the Weber DCOE like one like mine) that costs US$60 less (US$440).
Regards.
Looks pretty good Pilot, i bet the induction noise sends a tingle down your spine.
FI is a whole different kettle of fish to N/A though as you can't use a simple TPS reference for FI.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I have already started taking care of that and I have prepared an intake pressure rail (joining 2 or 4 of the intake runners). I have already obtained a very stable signal joining just # 1 and # 4 in my car.
I have not done it already, but I´m in the process (FI); thanks for letting me know of the challenge, hehe![]()
Just checked out your site Pilot, looks like you have things well in hand
Seriously though, joining all you ports to a vac reservoir can give a pretty good result for n/a and is worth the effort for a more economical ride. Essential to have MAP for boost of course and again the vac res will work BUT many engines have gone bang trying this approach because the ECU can't deal with the large flow changes with small throttle input.
Could be because the time lag is just too much or simply that the change in MAP isn't well referenced to the change in mass air flow? I believe that both Motec and Autronic, when they attempt this approach, use a MAP sensor on both sides of the throttle plates to get a more accurate relative change....and still use blend software to incorporate TPS signal as well....as i said hard to get a good result.
The higher the boost the more critical the issue too, so if you have a relatively low boost engine it'll be easier to get right. I talked at length with Wolf (Steve) about doing my RWD 3SGTE with quads but while he was confident it would work i was not...well not enough to risk my engine.
Very keen to see how you get on.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I´m not close to starting the turbo installation yet, but when I do it you´ll know.
BTW, the intake pressure rail I made is not meant to be a reservoir, it´s just a manifold to join them together. It does not have any kind of valves or other devices to keep vacuum levels inside.
hey guys,
with a bit more research, in order to get the rg to efi im going to try and use an fj20 shaft driver mathingamy as it has 60 points on the inside and 360 on the outside, then run individual bosche coils off an sr20 ignition box all controlled by a microleb lt10s (base mapped for an fj), and as for getting someone to tune it im going to, after i got through a 3 day seminar on autronics, motecs, microtechs and haltech. with supervision ofcourse
i think this will end up far easier than customising an angle sensor for it
let me know what you think
craig
Bookmarks