Help needed with fuel issues on both my toyotas!!

[Toyo Truck]

Hey dazza.
Think we fixed it champ!!!
you rock in so many ways dude. saved my bacon!

I took it all apart again and had a look I couldn't see anything in particular
that resembled the idle solonoid?
So I got the wires out and clicked the solonoid a few times and what not, seemed to be
coming from the back of the carby?
anyways we bolted it all up and plugged it all back in and now it works!!
This 1986 model car now drives better than some 1995 and onwards cars I've driven!
dunno what it was though. Maybe the needle was just stuck and me clicking the solonoid
fixed it?
OR the plug to it had shit inside and unplugging and plugging did the trick?

Its annoying me though I just can't find that bloody solonoid.
The red wire plugs into the big black round thingy at the rear of the carby, whats that thing?
seems to be attatched to the throttle?

but in the picture, there is a black/white wire combo underneath the white insulation tubing?
far left most part of the carby in the picture.
and it leads into a round cylinder thing about the thickness of a wine cork.
Is that it?

Also,
what is this stupid air pump thingy on the side of the motor?
it sucks air out of the air box, through a pump and back into the air-box?
WTF is the need for this lol?
besides sucking out nice cold air from my cold air intake and
thanking me by pumping hot ass air directly into my carby?
Can this fail-pump be removed? it will stop hot air getting into my carby
plus the motor won't have to turn the pump anymore. "..bonus killowasps!"
or is this far too outlandish on a 2SC

[Toyo Truck]

Did a bit of research on the interwebs
Apparently that pump introduces more air
Into the air filter housing to help burn
Exhaust gas and unburnt fuel

But
It introduces engine heated air and the
Pump itself is ran from a belt off the motor

So the old crappy pump would be draining
3hp or so maybe?
Then the hot air being put back into the filter
Would be sapping even more power

Does the pros outweigh the cons?

[Dazza]

The big black thingy with the red wire going into it is the automatic choke.
The round cylinder thing about the size of a wine cork with the black/white wires going to it is the idle solenoid.
The air pump is part of your anti pollution system, so you can be defected for disconnecting it. The air pump does rob power from your engine.

[Toyo Truck]

Hey mate
I left the pump and everything as is
But after about a week of good driving
Now when I drive for a while it starts to
Hesitate a bit not as bad as before though
And it smells like fuel a bit?

Also is Really rough on cold startups
Runs on 3 cylinders for a moment then
After a few stabs of the throttle it comes good

I swear this car is cursed!
As soon as I fix it something else goes
Wrong

[Dazza]

It sounds like the choke needs to be adjusted. If you screw in the choke fast idle screw a tad it should stop the rough idle when cold. If you screw it in too far your engine will screem when you first start it so try just a bit at a time.
If your choke is still on when your engine has warmed up then you can adjust it so it doesnt stay on as long by loosening the three screws that hold the back part of the choke on,and then turn the back part round a bit. There will be marks on the aluminium part and there should be a + and _ at either end of the marks. Turn it to _ a bit then tighten the three screws up again.

[Toyo Truck]

Which one is the fast idle screw mate?
Will give that a go and let you know.

Thanks again for ya help bud!

Cheers
Bart

[Dazza]

The fast idle screw will be hiding around the back of your carby near the primary throttle shaft. You should see a linkage that goes from your automatic choke down to the bottom of the carby and connects to a stepped cam shaped arm. The fast idle screw pushes against the cam shaped arm to adjust your fast idle speed.
If you cant fix the choke by adjusting it you might need to replace the choke coil or reostat as some people call it. It is the part of the choke that is held on by the three small screws and has wires going into it. They have been known to either seize or burn out but it is rare. It can cost around $70 to buy a new one so try adjusting the old one first.

[Toyo Truck]

Thought I might post up a pic of just how clean this rona is
so you can aqppreciate why I'm bothering with this car lol.
Its just SO clean...and white...my favourite colour
looks pretty good with the little drift rims on it.

apart from that small ding in the front spoiler (from being towed by a
hamfisted tow-truck driver methinks judging from the location and
nature of the dent) the car is IMMACULATE body-wise.
Interior is like 90% needs a new stereo facia and its mint.

Dazz
sorry mate, its been so hectic lately.
not even had a chance to sticky under the bonnet yet.
will do this weekend though.
I can see the little marks on the choke housing
will try rotating the round choke housing toward the "-" and see how it goes.

now that its a bit colder, it seems to be ok. its when it gets hotter (outdoor temp)
that it starts to smell a little fuely.

Cheers for all the help guys!

Cheers,
Bart

[Dazza]

Looks like its worth hanging on to. The choke might need a few trys to get it right but it will be worth it in the end. You need to set the choke fast idle so the engine sits on about 1500RPM when it first starts when cold. I would try turning the choke just one notch and see how it goes for a few days, then go a bit more if needed.

[Toyo Truck]

yeah am just giving it a try now.
let you know how I go

but yeah other than this issue it drives good now after all the money I've spent on it!! grrr
but hopefully will be a good daily driver for me now

cheers,
Bart