I would say you have a leaking valve in the fuel pump that lets the fuel drain back to the tank after a while. Dont think you can buy rebuild kits any longer so you will need to buy a replacement pump.
***EDIT*** This was about BOTH toyota's (the Lux and the Rona)
but seeing as the lux is getting a new motor lol,
this is now just RE my ST141 Rona.
Having major issues. Please read the bottom of page 2 for the latest
update on the repair of this fuel/carby issue on my 1985 ST141 Toyota Corona
***PS.. Thanks to EVERYONE for their help so far!!!!!***
Now onto page 2!
FYI this is the beast in question...
The lux will feature in my members thread FIXED hopefully soon.
With mad 141KW of goodness.
***ORIGINAL THREAD FOR REFERENCE***
Hi guys
really need your help fellas
I have 2 toyotas in dire need of help
both with a niggling fuel issue
my 22r lux!!
and my st141 rona!
I've tried everything spent numerous hours
much sweat and a bit of blood I'm at wits end
so before I throw too much money into two
holes, please I beg for your advice on the following
start with the rona
as it's dead and my missus needs it badly to
get to work and I'm getting chewed out on it
so it's a 1986 st141 stock-as carby 2.0l
only 150,000 on it or pretty immaculate
won't fire unless I crank the starter on and off
for about 2-3 mins! Starts eventually and runs ok
once started I can stop and start the car fine as
many times as u like...
leave it overnight or longer and your back to square
one!!
I hooked up a fuel Jerry can direct to the hose
and it fires straight away.
So using this info I thought blockage right?
So I replaced the fuel filter
blew out all fuel lines in and out
removed tank and cleaned out completely
but it was really really clean inside like new
pickup was fine all lines clear
replaced everything and new clamps throughout
took all weekend got it all back in tried again
same problem exactly
ran ok once started, but the missus goes to start
it for work two days later
no go = me chewed out for having old Toyota
please help guys should I replace the fuel pump?
That's about all I got except for a full carby rebuild
but that'll cost a heapI'll fork out if I gotta
I just HAVE to get it sorted asap
thanks fellas
really appreciate it call me if you can't be bothered
typing it all out 0419 686 603
cheers
Bart
Last edited by Toyo Truck; 08-10-2010 at 08:12 PM.
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
I would say you have a leaking valve in the fuel pump that lets the fuel drain back to the tank after a while. Dont think you can buy rebuild kits any longer so you will need to buy a replacement pump.
Thanks mate
this is along the lines of what I was thinking
but wasn't sure how the pumps work exactly
are they hard to swap though
you just unbolt it and swap it over or is there
more to it than that
(this is the gold round thing at the front of the
motor on the st141s )
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
They are easy as to replace. Undo your fuel hoses first then undo the two bolts holding the pump on and it should come off. There will be a lever sticking out of it into your engine for the cam to run on so it pumps. Some motors have the cam run on top of the pump arm and some run underneath so make sure you put it in the same way as the old pump was. there will be wear marks on the pump arm from the cam so it is easy to see which way it goes in. If you buy a new pump it should come with a new gasket which you will need to stop oil leaking out.
Thanks dazz
you rock mang
I have +repped you dude for your excellent
advice on this one!!!
Am picking up pump hopefully tommorrow
will replace and let u know
cheers
bart
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
i have had the same prob before as well. dazza is bang on the money with the diagnosis! new pump bobs your mothers brother.
i would pull the fuel line off the carb from the pump and see if it pumps any fuel after sitting for a while,
i would think that the fuel that would be sitting in the fuel bowl in the carby would be enough for it to at least start
may have some choke issues?
Hey kriso
did u notice your rona would splutter a little
and hesitate for a second or two when you
put your foot down?
It feels like a drop in fuel pressure momentarily
and yeah I will try that test from the line into the carby
aswell just to proove to myself that's what it is
actually dunno why I didn't try that in the first place!!
I was just very frustrated after removing everything
you know how it is lol
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
Hey guys
replaced the fuel pump today goes much better
and starts alot better too
still hesitates slightly when I put my foot down
which is shitting me
I took off the distributor cap it was pretty old and
the points were a little worn would that cause hesitation
at the lower rev range and initially when I gas it?
Goes well after the little cough and splutter though
sits on 80-100 no worries and the suspension is gold
so comfortable the car has only done 157,000kms
pretty good fir a 1986 rona
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
Worn points could be the cause of the hesitation but also make sure the end of the rotor button has not got a build up of black scale that acts like an insulator to weaken your spark. You can normally get away with lightly sanding or filing the end of the rotor button until you are back to brass again.
Another thing that will cause a hesitation when accelerating is a faulty accelerator pump in the carby. The accelerator pump is the little plunger that sticks out of the top of the carby and pushes down as you push the accelerator peddle down. The cup on the bottom of the plunger wears out so it wont pump as much fuel as is needed and sometimes the ball bearing below the plunger will rust so it leaks. The ball works as a one way valve to let fuel into the pump but not back that way so the fuel is pushed into the accelerator pump jet.
Alltrighty after all that I did the other day...
1) Replaced fuel pump with brand new unit from autobarn (fuel miser brand)
2) Sanded points inside distributor cap
3) Replaced rotor button with new unit from repco
4) Put about half a can of carby cleaner through the carby at half and full throttle
5) Filled it up with brand new premo unleaded 98 ULP good stuff
Went to start her this morning and back at the same bloody problem?
Car wouldn't kick? cranked enough times to send the battery low so I
stopped and went inside
came back out removed the hoses that went into the charcoal cylinder
and it seemed to start almost immediately after this?
could the charcoal cannister be the culprit in all this?
would it stop the little 2S-C from firing if it was severly blocked/rooted?
or was this just a lucky fluke?
Once it started I took her for a good long drive in the country.
its hesitation has gotten better, but its definately still there.
how much is a carby rebuild on one of these guys?
is it hard to DIY? (I've never done a carby rebuild before)
Cheers,
Bart
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
A carby rebuild is a bit of a challenge but you should be able to do it if you have a manual to show you where the balls and weight go. Make sure the float level is set correctly when you pull the carby apart. A low float level will make it run a bit lean and high float level will make it a bit richer.
I wouldnt of thought the hose to the charcoal canister would affect it because all it does is suck fuel vapours from the float chamber of the carby. You should be able to blow through the hose to the canister with your mouth but it will take a bit of doing. It could be the needle and seat in the carby sticking shut but it is rare for this to happen.Try tapping the top of the carby where the fuel line goes in next time it wont start to see if that helps. Only other thing i can think of is perished rubber fuel lines letting the pump suck air instead of fuel but you would notice the fuel hose is damp if it was leaking.
What is the ignition timing set at? hard to start/ hesitation etc are things that will result from poor engine timing. also i am unfamilar with rona carbs, do they have a mechanical choke for cold start? or electric?
No choke lever to speak of mate
must be an automatic choke I guess?
Maybe that pipe I took of the charc cann
was one of the tubes to the choke?
Other end of the pipe goes into the carby
how do I check or change the timing?
Is that done by twisting the distributor
body ( there is elongated holes that mount
it I presume that's what they are for?)
the car runs quite well once running though
has good power after the initial surge
wouldn't it be idling and running rough if the
timing was out?
Thanks heaps for your help guys
I have +repped all u guys
cheers,
bart
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
Ok
dazza = win
small breakthrough
car wouldn't start this afternoon
so I did what u said mate and tapped
the bolt that goes through the top of the carby
and holds the flat round old skool air intake
down to the carby with a central wing nut
tried it = car no start
bit more tap tappy
tried it = car started but died straight away
tried again = lasted a bit longer and died
tried again = car started spluttered a bit, then crept up
to a good idle
I was a happy panda
so
does this mean the needle or whatever is rooted?
You think a carby rebuild should sort it?
How much is a 2s-c carby rebuild??
2001 FZJ105 Landcruiser - Daily/Tow Truck
1989 LN106 Hilux Crawler - ARB Air Lockers, DUALS, 35"s +++
1989 JZZ20 Soarer - BIIIG Single, Schwweeeet Gateage
1989 GZ20 Soarer - Restoration Project
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