Help needed with fuel issues on both my toyotas!!

[Dazza]

It does sound like the needle and seat are sticking. I meant for you to give it a tap where the fuel hose goes into the carby which is under the air cleaner that you gave a tap. I think it would be a good idea to put a carby kit in it. The carby kit should have a new needle and seat in it as well as gaskets diaphrams and washers. At a guess i would say the carby rebuild kit would cost $60

[Toyo Truck]

Ok tapping is no longer working to get started
will have to rebuild carby methinks
will order a rebuild kit asap
can anyone lend me a corona st141 workshop manual
with carby rebuild steps
I wanna have a crack at fixing it
if I can't I'll just take it to a carby place

Man this rona drives so sweet with exception
to this feels fresh as once the carby stops spluttering
with only 150k genuine kms it's only a baby!!
My dads new BMW has 98 thousand kms already
and it's only 2-3years old

Cheers
Bart

[william]

have you checked the choke operation.
Before you try to start it pull the top off the air filter and look down the carb there should be a metal flap closing off one side of the carb.
if its not fully closed it will make it hard to start but once warmed up it will be ok.
you can adjust it by loosening the three screws and twisting the centre until the choke plate just touches the sides

also check that the wiring is connected to the choke

[Toyo Truck]

Think I know what you are talking about
it's the flap with a small hole in it on the
right hand side inlet of the carby
(there's like 2 halves of it with a divider)
so turn the flap till it blocks off that side?
Or nearly blocking off

will still do rebuild but this might keep her
starting till then
please anyone with a st141 rona workshop
manual I will +rep u muchly for a loan or a
photocopy

cheers
Bart

[toyboyracer]

Try here?

Might help??

[Toyo Truck]

Hey guys
worked out that the 22r in the hilux is completely
rooted too many issues to fix + 500,000kms has
made the need to do an engine conversion on the
truck finally a neccessity

with the truck off the road I really need to get this
rona going
I've found that if I pump the accellerator vigorously
while cranking seems to get it started
still hesitates but only if I put my foot down
if I baby it it seems to stop hesitating
put 2 cans of carby cleaner through it which
really helped still feels a little restricted tho

anyone know any other cheap quick fixes I can
try for a hesitating carby can't really take it off the
road at the moment as lux is out of action

[toyboyracer]

Huge gasket leak is my guess.

Usually between the base and the manifold, buy a gasket sheet from the local Auto store $8 and unbolt it, nail scissors will be enough to cut holes etc...

[Toyo Truck]

OK guys,

I am officially shitted off with this car. This 2SC corona that is.
I got it about 80% good and it has been driving me to and from the station OK for about a month or two,
then tonight, MORE problems!
Thing will not idle at all!!!! and I gotta drive it to work tommorrow aswell.
been at it most of the evening, still no good.
I have no idea what else it could be now.

Thanks to all your guys advice I have replaced the following...
Spark Plugs
Spark Leads
Distributor Cap (Has ignitor inside the cap)
Carburettor was taken apart by mechanic, rebuilt and reco'd.
(and replaced gasket aswell toyboyracer -thanks for the tip)
Fuel hoses replaced
Removed fuel tank - complete clean out but was REALLY clean? not a spec of rust or ANY dirt.
Blew compressed air down the lines (both tank in, tank out and vapour line)
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel filter
!!!
after all that, and having spent so many hundreds more $$ than I wanted to on this bloody car
it was alot better, but still nowhere near 100% pulls at WOT but when cruising and getting on and
off the accelerator lightly, it still splutters.
tonight it stops idling alltogether!!!

It will start straight away after 2/3 turns of the motor, but unless I keep the revs up, she DIES!!!
you can lower the idle down but then it usually makes a loud pop inside the air-filter and conks out
unless you gas it to about 2000 rpm.

PLEASE help guys,
This is the BEST condition rona I have seen for a while. factory manual and in white.
it'd be a shame to ditch it but after tonight I am tempted to give up on this POS.
Can't say I didn't try lol. we'll see, but there's only so much frustration one should have
to endure. This is the WORST toyota I've ever owned thus far (but it looks so good

if anyone can help tonight with some advice please PM or call me 0 4 1 9 6 8 6 6 0 3
or just reply on here. as always +rep shall ensue!

[Toyo Truck]

Anyone?
I had a mate say he rekons either the choke is shutting completely
or there is water or something in the fuel?

Will take ANY suggestion at this stage... no matter how silly or unrelated it may seem.

comon guys mad +rep awaits thee

Cheers,
Bart

[Dazza]

I think you could have a problem with the idle fuel cut solenoid. Check your fuses because the idle fuel cut solenoid needs to have power going to it for it to let fuel in to the idle circuit of the carby. It will be your engine fuse that supplies power to it. If your engine fuse is OK then the solenoid may be rooted. The solenoid screws into the top of the carby.Try connecting power from the battery to the solenoid and see if you can hear it click when you connect power and then disconnect power. If it doesnt click then it is rooted. If you unscrew the solenoid there will be a needle sticking out of it that pushes out to shut fuel off to the idle circuit and it should pull back in when it has power to it. On some solenoids you can take the needle out by undoing a small screw that goes through the side of the solenoid to hold the needle in. If you take the needle out it should idle fine but your engine might run on a bit when you turn it off.

[Toyo Truck]

Daz
Thanks man.
I'll +rep some peeps and hit you again soon mate!

This is what I was thinking but fark me if I knew where to start lol.
I'll go and try this now. see what happens.
I was driving a little "spiritedly" when it went, I thought I was out of fuel when it conked out at a
set of lights...would this have killed the idle solonoid? or driving at WOT for a bit doesn't really affect it?

Thanks again daz.
will try this now and let u know if it is win.

Cheers,
Bart

[Dazza]

You wont hurt the solenoid by driving fast. About the only things that would kill the solenoid are if it got water in it somehow even though it should be sealed, or if it got a huge voltage surge, or if there is a buildup of carbon on the needle causing it to jam.

[Toyo Truck]

Hey guys
Took off the air cleaner to have a look
I think I found the bit u are talking about
Is this bit (removed from front right of carby)
As shown in this pic... NOTE:- right side of frame is the front of the car left side of frame is the rear.


If so I put power to the four wires to the carby
One black earth wire I earthed to batt.
One white/black wire to the removed thingy (in the pic it is covered in black insulation)
And it didn't do anything at all? (seems to have some putty on it so someone may have bodged it up? can be seen in the pic)
The red wire that runs to the rear of the carby in the picture
Makes a solenoid clicking noise on and off at the rear of the carby (what is that solonoid)
Other wire does nothing either?
Am I onto something here? should all the wires going to the carby (except the black) activate solonoids?

looks like I'm double clutching to the station in the morning

[Dazza]

The round thing under the red wire at the back of the carby is your idle fuel cut solenoid. The thing you took off would be something to do with anti pollution gear.
Try unscrewing the idle fuel cut solenoid and check that the needle hasnt come off so it is sticking out blocking the fuel off. If it all looks ok then try blowing compressed air in the hole where you unscrewed the solenoid because the idle jet might just be blocked with a bit of shit. If you havent got a compressor then get a bit of vacuum hose and stick it in the hole then blow in the hose with your mouth.

[Dazza]

The hesitation problem might be caused by the vacuum advance in the distributor not working. To check if it is working you need to take the distributor cap off, then take the vacuum hose off at the carby end and suck on the vacuum hose with your mouth and check that the inside of the distributor moves around slightly when you suck on the hose.Also check that vacuum from your carby is reaching the vacuum advance on the distributor. to check this you need to take the vacuum hose off at the distributor then start your engine so you can stick your finger over the end of the hose to see if there is any vacuum. There should be no vacuum at idle but there should be vacuum as you bring the revs up. Vacuum hoses do block up with carbon or oil and shit so they might need a blow out.