1JZGTE alternator/wiring issues :S

[LeaThaL]

hey all,

ive been scanning random pages using search for a while as i dont like starting new threads but im at my whits end,

this is the situation....

Mz21 soarer, usual 1jz swap, all self wired so i know about everything that i need and know what is and isnt changed/cut etc

2 2gauge wires straight too the boot, one at the fusebox, one at the starter, ive checked and rechecked all wiring and it all seems fine,

it just seems i cant get the alternator to charge, however ive had a few funny things, i can run the car for ages but it will be fine, no power issues (except for charge light on dash)

the turbo timer/volt meter will read 12.1v or so but the battery will read aroudn 12.4 or so but it will teeter up and down by ,1 to .2 volts as if it is charging but being down now is say its not......

now i use to get the BATT light on the dash on ACC and ignition but last weekend i printed out a heap of plans and redid my fusebox wiring and checked everything and i now have the light out on ACC but i still do on ignition and while running.

ive run my checks but it seems im still not winning,

what i do wanna know is

• with the battery being in the boot am i best to run a wire all the way down to the battery for the sense wire,
• am I getting resistance as the battery is in the boot?
• am i still having a wiring issue that i cant get my head around or.....
• Do i just have a busted alternator!? lol

any info will be great! im goin nuts!! :S

[wilbo666]

what i do wanna know is

• with the battery being in the boot am i best to run a wire all the way down to the battery for the sense wire,
• am I getting resistance as the battery is in the boot?
• am i still having a wiring issue that i cant get my head around or.....
• Do i just have a busted alternator!? lol

any info will be great! im goin nuts!! :S

1) Yes
2) If you do 1) then the alternator should compensate
3) Probably
4) Possible

Cheers
Wilbo

[TRD-12A]

To check alternator check voltage at battery , then check voltage on main feed on the alternator they should be the same if they are then you have to make sure your getting an ignition feed to the alternator asweel sounds like you are cause the lights on the dash.

Also very important check your earths alot of people forget about the earth but its very important. With a multimeter check battery voltage accross battery, then leaving positive on battery check earth at the body, then put positive on starter wire(cause battery is in the boot) and check earth on the engine all readings should be same voltage.

If your getting earth and power feeds to alternator then it'll need replacing

[LeaThaL]

If your getting earth and power feeds to alternator then it'll need replacing

how do you mean mate? and what will need replacing? the alternator or cable?

also 1 thing i dont think that is but will replace this weekend when i do install a new sense wire...

ive run a cable from B on the alternator too the line that runs too the other side of the fuse for main power in the fuse box, now i am using the orignal 7m line and then a 6 or 8 gauge cable from B to the factory 7m point, i thought maybe its not allowing enought voltage thru the wire so i am going to replace it and run it as a 4 gauge straight to the fusebox this weekend to make sure its fine but i didnt know if that would make a issue with it at all.

but as a test i did seperate the line from the wire coming from B and it didnt make a difference at all :S

cheers

[TRD-12A]

I meant the alternator would need replacing and that B wire should be constant 12v from the battery (through a fuse obviously) then on the regulator plug there should be a positive ignition feed and the other wire is for the light on the dash.

If the wire going to B is defanetly giving the alternator 12v then its doing its job so i'd say more than likely it's gonna be your alternator mate.

But trust me check all your earths i've been caught before the earth was there it just wasnt a good enough connection and it gave me so many problams so its worth checking.

[LeaThaL]

well ive got 2 2 gauge earths on bare metal in the boot on the chassis rails, and a 2 gauge earth on the block to chassis, factory one on gearbox, factory one on the firewall to turbo mainfold and a 4 gauge one on the other side of the block to the chassis so i hope thats enought

i checked the levels as you said and i got the same numbers on the front (12.2v starter to block, fusebox to engine, xmember to starter and fusebox) and i got the same result on the battery in the boot apart from it always reads 0.1 lower at the engine than it does in the boot/battery

now i pulled the plug on the alternator and this is what i got....

Ignition off.
12.9v on the sense wire
0.1v on IG
0.3 on L
-------------------------------------------
Ignition on
still 12.9v on sense
12.7v on IG and
12.4v on L

soooooo im about ready to say ive got a dead alternator! this comes as sweet news as i lost my job today soooo yeeaahh :S FML lol


EDIT....

ok i just found that my dash doesnt work when the alternator is unplugged.....is this me again?

cheers

[LeaThaL]

OK another thing just came up,

i traced a few wires from the drivers kick pannel,

i traced from the engine fuse to the body loom near the fusebox and i was right, the proper wires are connected for IG

i traced from the sense wire and its the correct wire on the alternator and it is getting constant 12v from the right spot....

but when i traced Ignition fuse that should come out to the fuse box to go to light...the wire i have it connected to has no connection at all, i tested a few others and i get about 450-550 reading but the one i do have connected doesnt read at all, i traced it back to a plug on the back end of the fuse box, and i tryed every spot in the fusebox and not one gets a reading under 400 on the multimeter......

is there a way i can just install a fresh wire for load? and where is the proper spot for it?

not having light connected, will that stop the alternator from throwing charge?

cheers