Where to buy 4 wire Os sensor for silvertop 20v?

[dank]

Where's the best place to hook up one of these for my 20v?

It's the only sensor that didn't come with my motor and ecu and loom when I bought it?

Is genuine toyota the go or are aftermarket sensors any good?

Thanks in adavance

Cheers
Dan

[-GT-]

I found the same thing - also didn't come from the wreckers with the secondaries, tried to charge me as much again. But probably would've been the cheapest and easiest option. Only thing is, oxygen sensors do deteriorate over time so a 100k+ one is worth replacing anyway.

The car will run fine without it, just won't drop into closed loop cruise so your fuel economy will be crap. It's still not unbearable like that though. You can get aftermarket sensors, i found a mob in brookvale who do OEM sensor supply but won't sell retail, need an account.

Buy direct from Toyota is a straightforward option - expect to pay in the vicinity of $240-$260 rrp. I ended up buying one a while back because i got sick of trying to sort a new one from a supplier.

If you want to go searching you'll need to know it's flange type, not screw in, 4-wire heated (i can see that's in your title), bolt distance which i think is 54mm, not 44mm (but that is off the top of my head from about 4 years ago), and the heater resistance - ~6 ohms (blacktop AE111 is ~12 ohms).

Once again a few numbers off the top of the head so willing to be corrected.

Thought i had a part number round here somewhere for you but can't find it.

[Sam_Q]

does heater resistance change the wiring of it? also what about running an adapter to convert the flange to a common screw in type? Ford use a 4 wire don't they? could they be made to be compatable?

[The Witzl]

you can just use a single wire oxygen sensor... it just wont work perfectly until it warms up
Wil still work perfectly tho.

[dank]

As my 20v is going into a suzuki sierra, where on an AE101 would they locate the O2 sensor?

Can anyone give me a rough idea of a good place to mount it?

[Sam_Q]

well being a 4 wire it has its own heating element so anywhere after the collector and the cat is fine.

[dank]

couple people interested in pics of my setup so here are some.


here's a couple pics.



the modified cooling system outlet, this was easier to handle than your method. I can still service the dizzy etc without the firewall getting in the way.



My engine is probably a bit further forward than I wanted, But I have pushed the front diff forward to balance it out a bit and will have to run a pretty thin and wide radiator in the front as there isn't a lot of room there.

I'm running the A40 Aisin Warner 3spd auto out of an AE71 Corolla I got from Peter Phillips in Oakleigh. He has been a great help with parts etc. I fabbed the engine mounts using the guide on this forum and they turned out great. I'll be doing 4600 rpm at 100km/h. I've currently got 4.57:1 diff gears but can drop down to 3.7:1 if it annoys me.

Its a weekend wheeler built for hard offroad driving.

[the_random_hero]

Q. (not related to thread, but your car) - why would you put a 20V (ie. relatively gutless in the first half of the rev range) in a car that is build for 'hard offroad driving'. I know it would have more balls than what was in there stock, but wouldn't you go for something like a GZE?
I was under the impression that low down torque is what's needed (hence a lot of serious offroad vehicles being diesel)...

[dank]

Q. (not related to thread, but your car) - why would you put a 20V (ie. relatively gutless in the first half of the rev range) in a car that is build for 'hard offroad driving'. I know it would have more balls than what was in there stock, but wouldn't you go for something like a GZE?
I was under the impression that low down torque is what's needed (hence a lot of serious offroad vehicles being diesel)...

Everyone has done the gze conversion before...yes more torquey...but...

Thats a good question and pretty easy to explain why I went down that road. People think low down torque is all the go with 4wding, but gearing plays a massive part. Vehicles like patrols, cruisers, hiluxes etc all have a high crawl ratio .1st gearbox ratio x transfer ratio x diff ratio..most stock seem to be about 40:1 in a stock 4x4 at the top end. You need a lot of torque to push big tyres at this ratio hence diesels being a good option.

My zook is 2.81:1 1st x 4.9:1 transfer x 4.57:1 diff = 62:1 not taking into consideration the torque converter reduction which may be 1.5-2:1? possible 120:1 crawl ratio.

40:1 compared to 120:1 i'm not needing a lot of torque down low! I should be able to shift the zook into first jump out of the car and walk beside it at idle. having a 0-8500rpm range also gives good driveability over 3 gears.

This is meant to be a revvy build, keeping in the spirit of the light fast and revvy zooks. I'll be looking forward to the end result.

I know guys running the kei class 660cc turbo intercooled motors transplanted into a sierra with a manual box and 120:1 crawl ratio and these things scream and often outperform the big 4bys with all their torque.

[the_random_hero]

Everyone has done the gze conversion before...yes more torquey...but...

Thats a good question and pretty easy to explain why I went down that road. People think low down torque is all the go with 4wding, but gearing plays a massive part. Vehicles like patrols, cruisers, hiluxes etc all have a high crawl ratio .1st gearbox ratio x transfer ratio x diff ratio..most stock seem to be about 40:1 in a stock 4x4 at the top end. You need a lot of torque to push big tyres at this ratio hence diesels being a good option.

My zook is 2.81:1 1st x 4.9:1 transfer x 4.57:1 diff = 62:1 not taking into consideration the torque converter reduction which may be 1.5-2:1? possible 120:1 crawl ratio.

40:1 compared to 120:1 i'm not needing a lot of torque down low! I should be able to shift the zook into first jump out of the car and walk beside it at idle. having a 0-8500rpm range also gives good driveability over 3 gears.

This is meant to be a revvy build, keeping in the spirit of the light fast and revvy zooks. I'll be looking forward to the end result.

I know guys running the kei class 660cc turbo intercooled motors transplanted into a sierra with a manual box and 120:1 crawl ratio and these things scream and often outperform the big 4bys with all their torque.

Well there you go I wasn't in any way bashing your choice (reading back over it, it sort of seems like I was), really just interested in why you've chosen that engine.
Will definitely be interesting to see the final product!

[dank]

Just bumping this to the top, I've been to a local supplier and found that a universal O2 sensor 4 wire 6 ohm resistance with a srew in type that is suitable for the 2ZZG celica engine, I'm guessing this will be close enough? I reckon a screw in type will be easier to install than a flange type?

Any opinions of those who have done this before let me know.

[Hen]

If you can weld (and it look slike you can) then screw in or flange mount is immaterial. You can get a screw in boss from any exhaust shop, and weld it onto your exhaust wherever you like. No dramas.

Nice Suzuki too, I bet it'll be fun.

Hen

[inertia]

I've just put a 4 wire bosch universal into my 4agze, got the one with 18w heater.
-Posi-cock connector was a pain, tried doing it myself but it is much easier if you have 4 hands...

I've only driven the car about 60km since the swap, necessitated by changing my exhaust, but the ecu is happy, the car drives normally.

There is a poping on back off, though I think this is more attributed to the changed exhaust (straight thru) and possibly different timing (CAS was whacked in without checkin timing with a light, just went on scratch marks).