4AGE 100kw into AE92 (where 4AFC used to live)

[Grega]

4AGE into AE92 - NON 4AGE (ie : with 4AFC p00 motor)

If you expect to do this properly, and it cost you a few hundred, don't read this article.
Go read fast fours and buy a $1 front cut and have it blow up on you 10km down the road.

So my 4AFC died a sudden death. Actually it got me home from work then popped a headgasket at the base of my driveway (insert something about Toyota reliability here) As the 4AFC had been cooked previously, when i had the head checked it had gone soft. So no reco for you. I put in a 100kw 4AGE head for reconditioning with the expectation i would put that on the 4AFC bottom end and go that route. Until i discovered the 4AFC piston rings had lost tension, the 4AGE block, then, also went in for reconditioning.

So, $550 for a head job and $450 for a clean, hone, new rings, bearings and all that jazz I had a new motor to assemble

Piston ring compressor $30 (thanks Bursons)
ARP head studs $250 (thanks Toby)
OEM Toyota gasket kit (thanks Toby) ~$220 I think
100kW 4AGE water pump (the 4AFC one DOES fit but have a look at where the water pump pulley is sitting in relation to your crank pulley.....yes....I tried to re-use the old 4AFC pump - NO BINGO for you. $70 (thanks Bursons)
The 4AFC crank pulley, while it goes on, does not line up with the 4AGE 100kw water pump pulley. No bingo there either.
You could use the 4AFC alternator and make a custom mount, I've been down that road before and epic failed, please don't.
The 4AFC sump works fine with the cooling shit.
The 4AGE bottom cam pulley has to be used In fact thinking about it not much of the 4AFC stuff CAN be re-used. I think the sump was about it :rollseyes:

So
What about engine mounts you say?
I used the 4AFC drivers side engine mount - that worked just fine. I had to modify the 4AGE 100kw cam covers at the front of the motor but nothing a dremel wouldn't fix. I used the mounts off the 4AFC on the block and bolted it all together. No issues there. No new mount needed (hooray something else got re-used)

You need the 4AGE 100kw exhaust manifold and the primaries. Thanks to the dude in Sunshine who I got those off. They fitted up with no issues. Word to the unwise - put the flaming primaries in and over the member which goes between the front rails before putting the motor in - otherwise it gets a bit tricky. It can be done but you'll be undoing mounts - I went in from above (when i put the engine in) not up from underneathe as my auto (yes my 100kw AE92 is AUTO) was in the way. (They do it up from underneathe in the factory)

The standard 4AFC exhaust is useless too. I chopped off the cat and put that on then got a piece of pipe welded b/w the cat and the rear piece of the exhaust system. It works OK this way.

Bolt the box and motor together (have fun getting that lower flex plate cover on with that
stupid north-south crossmember in the way) and you are AOK. Throw out all your 4AFC radiator hoses bar your bottom one. I used the 4AFC bottom hose to the stock AE92 4AGE thermostat housing. There is provision for it to sit on top of the auto box folks (the thermostat housing) so yeah, all good there. I also used an AE82 top water hose to the radiator and the one b/w the top inlet and the AE82 piece that goes over the dizzy. I would have used the proper AE92 setup however I replaced my 4AFC radiator about a month before the thing died, wasn't buying another...

The EVIL auto
I'm using the stock 4AFC auto. It seems to work OK (even with the 4AGE attached it still hammers) however there is a piece of evil you need to know. In the AE92 AUTO the starter motor mounts on the INLET manifold side. This is uber ghey and evil.
Whats there on the AE92. Yes. The fucking large pipe that comes from the back of the water pump and the oil drain hose from the head to the block. You'll be happy to know that the hose is AOK with the starter motor there, however, the evil starter motor from hell fouls on everybodies favorite hose from the back of the water pump

How to get around it - go to Super Cheap and get yourself some of that flexible hose stuff with the wire in it - $20 or so and then chop the stainless pipe just off the back of the water pump, then join it up to the bit at the other end (and run the water pipe up to the throttle body like it should. The small one from the back of the top housing fits fine folks so all good there.

Something to mention, don't try using the reduction gear 100kw starter motor on the other side - the bolt holes are in different places on the auto bellhousing. Other thing - for the 100kw motor to drive the auto - go get yourself a 20v auto flexplate - thanks Andrew from CVAP for that little number. bolts up perfectly. Same size as 4AFC p00 motor but with 8 holes instead of 6.

TTS001 - thats the part for the temp sender. When you try to take it out of the 4AFC shit housing, it will be siezed in there and snap. $11 from Bursons. Oh hang on, its too small, off to S&M auto mart for a VDO adaptor (sorry don't have this part number) but thats all good too.

Oh something else to remember. Do the bloody knock sensor up before you put the inlet manifold on....and plug the thing in. Another evil job. You can do it from under the car (I did) but you have drive shafts and other shit in the way which means you have to get out your contortionist skills to get in there.

You need to install a 4AGE or 4AFE EFI petrol tank
I got a 4AFE petrol tank from a hatch - the tanks are the same b/w sedan and hatch - put that in. The lines are slightly larger on the injected setup instead of the carby - i connected them up with EFI fuel hoses. Remember to run wires from the grey plug on the fuel pump to the circuit opening relay - the blue wire is +12v and the white wire is -12v.

Actually good time to note - remove all carby hoses and put in the bin. Not only will they be old and shit - they can't cope with the pressure of EFI. Get new hoses. Yes the hose is expensive but do the job right.

Get your injectors recoed. VERY important. I had a no start condition which shitted me to death only to find that my injectors (3 out of the 4) were not doing SHIT.

Plug in all the wires for all the stuff, MAP sensor, dizzy, ect ect, I used all the stock AE92 brackets and shit for the ignitor, the idle up for the AC, the coil (hangs off the strut brace (thanks GTI-16V)) plus i used the stock airbox as well. Yes the starter motor power wire fits around to the other side of the motor thank god.

At this point I must stress I used the stock AE92 100kw loom - complete with the under bonnet fuse/relay box. Yes it ALL plugs into your stock 4AFC loom. And everything works too.

I removed in its entirety the 4AFC COMPLETE engine loom - and ripped the auto bits and pieces out of it.

Now to the inside and the fun wiring.
I used the stock 100kw AE92 4AGE loom. It poked thru the firewall fine (thanks Karl), but was without the power plug for the ECU.
I managed to score one from a wide body Camry - that took a while - but all good. I wired that up and re-pinned it - I wired the +B1, +B, BATT, and FC wires out of this. Thats all I have at the moment I don't have a CEL (check engine light) happening at the moment. I am going to also try wiring the STOP into the ECU as well as I believe that might help my slowing down idle/condition - need to test but thats later on in the peace...it works AOK without these others (including speed sense).

The 4AGE 100kw loom has a 4 pin plug with the main power wires in for everything.
Match up the black wire (which is start) with the black (or black with white tracer) in the
loom in the AE92 4AFC body loom. Remember to tap into this for your circuit opening relay (yes i run one of these as well)
There is a very thick black with red tracer wire. This also can be rigged up to the stock 4AFC body loom. Thats fine
Then there is a Black with orange tracer wire. This also can be rigged up to the stock 4AFC body loom. That works AOK too.

The smaller Black with Red tracer wire I figured out is what powers the ECU and other stuff in the 4AGE 100kw. I pinned out of that to power my fuel pump, ECU and circuit opening relay.

Then there is a two pin plug with two white wires in it. They both come off the battery and feed main power to the AE92. The AE92 p00 setup only used a small 40A feed (one of) so I teed the smaller of the two wires (which means I'm using the 40A from the fusible link on the battery) and didn't hook the other one up. This seems to work AOK.

In this setup, the whole thing will fire up and run - no issue there.

So
The only thing left now is mating the 4AFC yellow plug to the wires on the 4AGE grey plug.
This is shit easy
The white with black tracer wire in the yellow plug is a ground for your dash. If you get that wrong your temp sender will read WAY wrong. It will go instantly to hot after about 1 minute of running
The Red and Blue and Red and Black wires are your reverse lights -these are the same between the plugs.
The yellow and green is your temp sender - same between plugs
The yellow and black is your oil pressure sender. Care here - there are two yellow and black wires - one is not hooked up - buzz out the wire for continuity in the 100kw 4AGE loom to be 100% sure. Same between plugs though (colors)
The black wire in the 100kw 4AGE loom is the tacho output - wire that up to the black wire in the AE92 4AFC loom. that works just fine.
The blue wire in the 100kw 4AGE loom should be teed' into the +12v feed going to the fuel
pump - this is optional - just gives the check connector +12v for testing
The Black and Yellow wire in the 100kw 4AGE loom goes to Black and Yellow wire in the 4AFC loom - thats voltage sense for the standard 100kw alternator.
There is also a blue and red tracer wire for the Overdrive Off/On button. The auto switches off the overdrive by shorting out one of the pins in the 2 pin plug. That needs to be wired up to a relay as, the feed coming out of the blue and red wire is positive and needs to be negative at the auto. Its also dioded on the 4AFC go keep that bit as well.

There would be more wires here if you had AC. I don't (yet) - thats my next project for this mess, but i'm hoping this will help anyone who embarks on something similar.

Who do I want to thank here ; here goes

Specifically ;
Toby - Meridian Motorsport
Cuzzo - thanks for listening to me piss and moan
Des - as above - thanks for your advice and comments too
Overall
The Toymods community - thanks SO much for all your assistance with making this a success

Publications used during this gig
Toyota : TS011 : electrical wiring diagrams for AE92 series (4AGE)
Toyota : TS012 : electrical wiring diagrams for AE90 and AE92 series (4AFC and 6AFC)
Toyota : PUB No : 36230E 2A, 3A, 3AC, 4A, 4AC, 4AGE Engine Repair manual
Haynes : Toyota Corolla and Holden Nova 1985-1992 Auto Repair manual.

[Grega]

two more things i just thought of. i'll add stuff in here as I think of it

get a bracket and charcoal canister ect from a 4AFE setup - it all bolts in.
also the 4AGE appears to have two lines on the bottom of the throttle body which i think hook up to the power steering rack...i didn't hook these up. if memory serves they are idle up for when the power steering is being used...just join them together and don't worry about them...

[fandio]

this has helped me heaps in a similar conversion, thanks mate love your work

[Hydra]

Having helped put a 20v into a AE92 that used to have a 4A-FC... you really really want the front cut, don't just get the engine. Life is so much easier when you have the driveshafts etc to play with!

[Grega]

agree - if i ever do an engine conversion again - will be from a cut.

[Starfire]

Good writeup

[Grega]

i guess i did something right
6000+ kms since i rebuilt and its the BEST car i've ever owned
(aside from the fact the 356,000km old shell is dying (it rains in my car when its rains)