Make sure to use Gates belts and also stick a new bearing in the replacement pulley. It shouldn't be hard to find as it is the same type used in air con compressor pulleys.
I may have over-tightened the belt? Is there a belt tightening regimen I should follow? Reason I ask is that for quite some time the belt would slip a lot, and I had to tighten the belt well past where I thought it was good to keep it from slipping.
When I redid everything right before it melted I had tightened the belt more because it sounded like it was slipping again and was not making full boost.
Make sure to use Gates belts and also stick a new bearing in the replacement pulley. It shouldn't be hard to find as it is the same type used in air con compressor pulleys.
I've replaced the blower with a spare sc12. First thing I noted was that all of the pulleys on the car run quite hot...belts too tight creating too much friction?
Secondly, blower worked great...made 12psi and hit hard. When I got home the nut that holds the front cover plate onto the sc was hanging on the last thread. It had wound itself off under spin/load. Now, I know it was tight when I put it on. Is there a torque I should set it to, or should blue loctite be used?
Still looking for an sc14.
Dunno about it being too tight. I just use a gates belt and tension it up until I can barely twist the longest bit of belt between pulleys by 90 degrees.
A bit of loctite will fix that nut.
So, guess I'm back to square one here. Going to try the 60mm throttle this weekend. I saw that you removed the air solenoid and filled it...for a quick viability test can I just plug it? Ill have to port-match it to the downtube, which seems easy enough. What about the idle bypass...I saw that you'd removed yours?
I used a 55mm tb from a 3sgte. I don't know how far the 'j-pipe' can be bored out, so you'll just have to see for yourself.
I used the ISCV that was on the throttle body, it's a bit of a pig to drive without it, stalling when the A/C comes on etc. With the rest of the stock intake being the size it is, I didn't see the need to go any bigger than 55mm myself.
Well, I got the 60mm because I had to import it and I felt bigger would be better? I have no a/c to speak of...ill try plugging up the tb and see where it goes. I'm more worried about physical fitment than perfection...ill hog the tube out in winter.
Should have known...60mm throttle body doesn't fit. Bolt pattern is 2.75" instead of 2.5". Also has vac port on the back that hits the intake tube. May need some modifications...but it looks simple enough. Ill use some washers to space the J tube off the intake to get some space and round out the holes on the tb to get the spacing. Otherwise has no interferences issues I can see?
Totally agree. I put a 60mm throttle on my setup. The throttle has so much 'extra' gain at low openings that its just a whole lot more sensitive. When I see Honda's with 70mm throttle bodies I have to scratch my head. You do get used to how to modulate the throttle nicely in traffic / parking situations, but its more concentration and not as nice to drive as a stock throttle. Kind of like going for a heavy duty clutch, yeah you can get used to it, but its a pain!I didn't see the need to go any bigger than 55mm myself.
The 60mm throttle on my car used to live on a VNV6, a 3.8L donk, so would you expect it to be a little big on a 1.6 at near idle situations...this is despite the 'snail cam' shape of the pulley on the throttle. At high revs and 18psi its a different story.....but its only there 1%of the time!
== 4AGZE SC14 Supercharged ==
Now flogg'n the SC14 @ 18psi....
Is it an idea to hook the blower to a switch so it is throttle activated and not on all the time like I have it now?
Is there a point in driving the blower faster than a 180mm pulley?
Anyone overheated a blower to the point of the internals melting?
This:
Engine Cooling System Cleaning Kit
I have used it in a few cars (including a Jeep Cherokee with the usual chronic overheating problem) and it has worked wonders. This stuff actually works *really* well.
Actually, I managed to get the car running cooler already by backing off timing.
Has any one here had any experience with replacing the blower bearings with ceramics or ball bearings...anything higher end than o.e.m.?
You can't replace the bearings without spending more money than just buying a refurbished Eaton.
You can replace the seals in the rear for the oil chamber, but even then the rear bearings need to be reused as I bought the last few in Australia, unless you can find them overseas.
The other option is to buy a complete run of each bearing type (there are three different bearings used) for a total of 1500 bearings as the front bearings are not available anywhere in the world........
So, you will need to either pay for a stack of bearings, or remachine the housing to accept different sized ones. Basically, forget it, and if the bearings blow, buy a new supercharger.........
If it's leaking oil, that can be fixed, but is a bit of a stuff around unless you know what you're doing. (I've done a few now, so have got it pretty well worked out).
When we're cutting out the side of the idle port to allow flow between the tb and mounting surface, is there a point where you can cut out too much? I was going to pare it back so that it was even with the surface of the inner throttle body.
This for a 3SGTE throttle body? I cut the slot out to make it the same dimensions as the port itself.
Bookmarks