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Thread: 4agze build questions

  1. #61
    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Would be good to see how it fits. If you want some pics of the 3SGTE setup let me know and I'll have a dig through my hard drives.

  2. #62
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    That'd be nice. I am quite concerned that they will not allow me to retain use of my strut tower bar.

    Thanks for all the help again!

  3. #63
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    I think I've managed to find a 60mm tb, and ill get it installed asap in combination with a jdm intake pipe from an ae92 that I took off my spare engine.

    Recently, my original sc12 failed. As near as I can tell, the magnetic pulley's bearing failed, causing the pulley to heat up and seize. It got so hot that it glowed yellow and the pulley internals melted. It was still too hot to touch two hours later! This seized the pulley of course causing the belt to shred. This took out the alternator belt.

    Upon inspection, the blower heated to the point that the paint on it went from silver to a golden brown. The blower seems to seal and make pressure okay, but the outer pulley mount (the outside threaded ring) around the drive shaft at the front has ovalled, melting in the heat as well. Also, there is some kind of white plastic material that has leaked or squeezed out of two small ports on either side of the blower.

    Four questions: assuming the blower still functions, do the non-clutch pulleys of places like pulley bros mount to the inner shaft of the blower, and can one of those salvage this situation?

    What is this white, plastic substance that has come out and does this mean the blower is toast?

    Assuming I can get it apart, is the blower conventionally rebuildable based on what I've just said?

    What could have caused all of this?

  4. #64
    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Nice work.
    The stuff that oozed out is probably the epoxy used to hold the bearing in. If that's the case, it will mean that the bearing has got very hot too, and could be damaged, the epoxy melts at about 150 - 200 degrees C. (It's a fully sealed design, and hence unserviceable. The other front bearing under the little cap is only half sealed and hence regreasable).
    In that case, the housing will need to be replaced, as the bearings are not available new and without extensive modification, you cannot fit another size bearing in its place.

    Can you post some pics? I'll have a look through my spare parts if you want, I might have a spare snout and whatever else in my box of bits.
    I don't have the bearing on the pulley side, but if you need the other front bearing, I have one that is in good condition that I pulled from an old housing.

    Your pulley will be undoubtedly stuffed, but if you can get a replacement, the bearing is still available as it is the same as used in air con compressors, so you can replace it for peace of mind.

    I'll ask the question re. the pulley bros pulley. I am pretty sure it will sit on the snout with a bearing to prevent any side loading on the splined shaft.

  5. #65
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    I will try to get pictures up this weekend. I am quite concerned that whatever caused this may repeat itself.

    Is rthere a tear down and rebuild guide online? Are there replaceable, wearing or maintenance parts? Regular maintenance stuff beyond oil or sealed for liife?

  6. #66
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    There's no guide as such, but I've torn down and rebuilt a few of these things, so if you have any questions, I can help.

    As for service items, apart from oil, and the occasional relubing of the front bearing under that cap next to the pulley (Lithium soap complex grease) it's considered 'sealed'. Oh, you can check the movement of the clutch pulley with a dial gauge too. If it's more than 0.65mm, pull the clutch off, and linish the shim (a small washer) until you get an averaged movement of between 0.45 and 0.65mm (click the clutch on and off a few times then take a few readings around the perimeter).
    The seals in the rear can be swapped out if they are leaking, but the rear bearings are all gone and sold in Australia (I bought the last three , try American suppliers if you need them, or buy a batch of 500 from Koyo...), so they will have to be reused. It can be done, and they are usually in good condition anyway. Just gotta be careful not to overheat them or burn the bearing seals when you heat them to melt the epoxy to pull them out.
    The trick is setting the clearances right, but I can run you through the process if you decide to delve that deeply......

  7. #67
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    So, what you're saying is that besides the front pulley and the bearings, the blowers should not otherwise fail? Rotors won't go bad etc?

    Working on photos...do my best to get them up by the weekend.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Not that they won't fail, but that you cannot fix them if they do.

    Run them outside their specs, let dirt into them, or when they just wear out, they will die.


    Basically all you can do is replace the rear oil seals, grease one of the front bearings, reshim the clutch and top it up with oil.

  9. #69
    Forum Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Here's the photos in no particular order.

    Think its salvageable...the internal mechanism seems to turn issue free. Try to replace the bearings and keep going?







  10. #70
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Wooooowwww.

    Catastrophic bearing failure of the epic kind. Awesome work.


    Good time for an SC14 upgrade me thinks.....

  11. #71
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    I would, but the only one available in the country is 1000+km away and is off a Previa. We never got the 1ggze here so finding the sc14 off that engine is near impossible. Apparently the Previa sc14 is different according to pulleybros? Anyone have more in depth information?

  12. #72
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    It can be fitted, but the mounting brackets need to be a bit more funky to fit. Keep the stock pulley and you'll not need to worry about that too much.

  13. #73
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Do you have a spare sc12 snout lying around? Is there any other serious differences between the previa and 1ggze sc14's I need to know? What kind of boost will one of these blowers make?

  14. #74
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    I'll have a look and see what parts I have and let you know.
    I'm not 100% on the differences, as I've only really played with the 1GGZE SC14. As for boost, I would expect around 10-11PSI with stock pulleys.

  15. #75
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: 4agze build questions

    Pressure washed and/or overdrive pulley and/or really tight belt?
    Thanks for the pics.
    'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!

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