3tc conversion to efi + turbo + rebuild

[Hurricane]

im likin were this is headin, and keen to see how it goes.

its also gettin me pumped to finish buildin mine.

[pope]

Cheers guys.

Picked up some earls gear for the turbo and I think I've got them set where I want them.





Oil feed is going to run round the mack then across to the oil pressure sender which i have tee'd. Thinking of getting some copper pipe made up to go from the tee to the back of the engine to meet up with the braided oil line.

Water lines are going to go directly from the water pump to the part pictured in the back of the head. Can anyone see any problems with this? Heat? Flow?

Wish i knew where all the water went and what directions it was meant to flow in the engine.

[Radar]

Insane absolutely loving it

[Hurricane]

im runnin my oil and water lines in the same path.
water flows out of the head and gets pulled in from the pump outlet.
so u have it right.

dan.

[godlovesugly]

nice work man this looks like its going to be awesome. i love these engines, ive got one in my KE20 and it wont stop for anything, i was going to do an EFI conversion but ive also got a 4age powered KE25 project so ive sort of lose interest in the KE20. if anyone else is looking at doing an EFI conversion ive got a genuine 3teu manifold ill sell, its missing the fuel rail but the throttle body and shit is there.

edit: theres a 3teu manifold on US ebay at the moment as well

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3tc-2...Q5fAccessories

[thechuckster]

fwiw: if the O2 sensor is a wideband unit then you could shift it another 6" away from the turbo outlet. Mine was about that close and regularly had over-temp issues.

[Radar]

Hey just a question, have you looked into cranking pressure or dynamic compression ratio's with the cam and compression ratio your running?

You said you'd chose 7.5:1 pistons with a 77ABDC, with that setup you'd only be getting something like 95psi dynamic cranking pressure (sweet FA).
According to some reading I've been doing, you need at least 165psi + for a decent responsive motor (std is 167psi 2tc and 174psi 2tb).
With a ABDC like that maybe the motor would respond better with a little more compression?

Also your dynamic compression ratio would be VERY low 5.45:1, from what I've been reading an engine with a DCR of 7.5:1-8.8:1 is perfect for 92-98 octane fuel and anything over that 8.8:1-9.1:1 is for High octane fuel only.
Two articles
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html - Cranking Pressure
http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html - Dynamic CR

(Again all from what I've been reading, so sorry if I've buggered up some information )

[NME308]

Hey just a question, have you looked into cranking pressure or dynamic compression ratio's with the cam and compression ratio your running?
Just been doing some theory research and the experts all recon low compression sux, and it appears you will have uber low dynamic compression... (end buggered quote!)

The theory works well on what is normally accepted spark timing i.e. low compression gives really dead unresponsive motor!

Got taught it by my brother - if your engine has somewhat low compression up the timing to match! On a real low compression motor with a normal timing map the air fuel mix will burn rather slowly and still be releasing energy while the piston is half way down the bore! To speed things up and get the combustion energy release where it is needed i.e. somewhere close to the top of the compression stroke - advance the spark timing to suit! Take an old 308 V8 with stock bottom end which someone had done some port work to the heads and jammed in a big cam... got a bit of a top end charge but is a pig on throttle response etc! A quick distributor remap turns it into a snappy responsive engine which the owner does'nt even recognise!

My 3TC turbo is 7.0:1 static compression. With toyota's standard 10-12 degrees initial timing it will barely run and has NO throttle response to speak of whatever! Bring it up to 35deg advance and the engine runs normal again and throttle response is back I pull about 6 degrees back out by 12 pounds of boost and its a package that gives me a much needed giggle to and from the drudgery of work!

Cheers,
Jason

[pope]

im runnin my oil and water lines in the same path.
water flows out of the head and gets pulled in from the pump outlet.
so u have it right.

dan.

Yay for me

fwiw: if the O2 sensor is a wideband unit then you could shift it another 6" away from the turbo outlet. Mine was about that close and regularly had over-temp issues.

Yeah i just put it there because there was a spot for it. I have one from memory roughly 30cm back from the turbo that i will be using.

Hey just a question, have you looked into cranking pressure or dynamic compression ratio's with the cam and compression ratio your running?

You said you'd chose 7.5:1 pistons with a 77ABDC, with that setup you'd only be getting something like 95psi dynamic cranking pressure (sweet FA).
According to some reading I've been doing, you need at least 165psi + for a decent responsive motor (std is 167psi 2tc and 174psi 2tb).
With a ABDC like that maybe the motor would respond better with a little more compression?

Also your dynamic compression ratio would be VERY low 5.45:1, from what I've been reading an engine with a DCR of 7.5:1-8.8:1 is perfect for 92-98 octane fuel and anything over that 8.8:1-9.1:1 is for High octane fuel only.
Two articles
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html - Cranking Pressure
http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html - Dynamic CR

(Again all from what I've been reading, so sorry if I've buggered up some information )

Egad. I love all that sort of info but to be honest i've been a bit lazy and left the cam spec to the engine builder. He's done many 2tg, 3tc and hybrids and also a 2tg/3tc hybrid running lpg and a massive turbo.

The theory works well on what is normally accepted spark timing i.e. low compression gives really dead unresponsive motor!

Got taught it by my brother - if your engine has somewhat low compression up the timing to match! On a real low compression motor with a normal timing map the air fuel mix will burn rather slowly and still be releasing energy while the piston is half way down the bore! To speed things up and get the combustion energy release where it is needed i.e. somewhere close to the top of the compression stroke - advance the spark timing to suit! Take an old 308 V8 with stock bottom end which someone had done some port work to the heads and jammed in a big cam... got a bit of a top end charge but is a pig on throttle response etc! A quick distributor remap turns it into a snappy responsive engine which the owner does'nt even recognise!

My 3TC turbo is 7.0:1 static compression. With toyota's standard 10-12 degrees initial timing it will barely run and has NO throttle response to speak of whatever! Bring it up to 35deg advance and the engine runs normal again and throttle response is back I pull about 6 degrees back out by 12 pounds of boost and its a package that gives me a much needed giggle to and from the drudgery of work!

Cheers,
Jason

Thats good to know.

I'm thinking that tuning this myself may be a bit over my head. Might need to look at getting a quick tune from autocraft then getting it out on the track to run it in. Can anyone else suggest a way to run it in correctly but also have the correct tune?

[TRAV-KE55]

my suggestion would be get it tuned before going to the track, that way you wont run the risk of detonating it before you have had it tuned properly, running it in on the dyno shouldnt be a problem, but still some cycling on the track before racing it would be advisable, doesnt need heaps just a few healthy sessions, thats all.
Trav

[TRAV-KE55]

Oh forgot to mention, i had Clive Stenlake do the cam for my 3T years ago, after discusing what i wanted to do with the car and what induction etc it was going to have, he designed a cam for me, and it was absolutaly brilliant, a real tourquey engine that went to about 6800 all day but was happy to got to 7500 to pull the gaps in gear ratios and between corners. I cant recomend him highly enough.
Trav

[pope]

Yeah it will be getting a tune before hitting the track now.

Tune -> 500km on track -> unwire turbo wastegate -> tune -> skids

More pictures.

Lots of fiddly shit slowing me down but I'm getting there

[3jcelica]

Trigger wheel setup looks almost identical to mine, same ford sensor, similar braket and same wheel mounting, Works great. What do you have in the modified dizzy, single home trigger for COP?

Roger

[Radar]

shmick i like it

[pope]

Trigger wheel setup looks almost identical to mine, same ford sensor, similar braket and same wheel mounting, Works great. What do you have in the modified dizzy, single home trigger for COP?

Roger

Dizzy is just cut down and blocked off.

Running an EDIS set-up with a MegaJolt for spark.