yeah engages any no spacing required from what i can see..
now one tricky part re starter.. the wire that comes from soliniod to motor runs into the block.. so need to move the cable i took back off starter and looks do-able..
now for part 2 of the starter mission, will it engage the flex-plate/flywheel or need spacing
Toyota AE93 Corolla 20v Silvertop
BF Mk II Xr6 Turbo Ute (tickled to 316kw)
Datsun 180sx turbo
Forester GT
yeah engages any no spacing required from what i can see..
now one tricky part re starter.. the wire that comes from soliniod to motor runs into the block.. so need to move the cable i took back off starter and looks do-able..
what bearing did you use for the input support? i had a 6021 (same as 1JZ) in there but it wasnt that deep. 12mm deep from memory.
i cant say im a fan of the material taken out of the block, i think boosted motors will have a problem with that scenario given it is structural support for the main bearing.
That's not a structural support for the main bearing, it's now merely a part to shield the flywheel from the outside world.
In it's original application, it is beefy because it needs to hold the gearbox up, the only other support for the V6 box is at the other end.
Similarly for the 3S, it's beefy because it needs to transfer all of the engine's weight to the gearbox because this is where the engine mounts are.
If you think that metal removal is drastic, you should see what we're doing to one so that the GT4 box fits (ie hacking into the webbing of the block itself).
well i wouldnt be taking material out of my block thats for sure. how many 1mz's have you built ? because ive only had experience assisting in the build of one thats only putting out about 600 at the wheels.
edit: and just something i thought of, the v6 starter will be off a FWD? wont it spin the wrong way ??
Last edited by Adsport; 01-02-2010 at 11:27 PM.
Have you broken one in that spot before?
I'm sure that 600+ requires all the help it needs. More stress on the motor requires more integrity to hold it together.
Something less powerful won't need as much to stay together.
I'm pretty sure in the other thread, Joel has mentioned that he's using a V6 4Runner starter, so that's in a RWD config to start with.
Dylan, the motor may spin backwards, but the mechanism that makes the starter gear come out to engage with the flywheel only works one way IIRC.
in theory yeah but reversing polarity on electric motors heats the field coil up bigtime.
ah good point, and i didnt realise that it was a RWD starter
Yeah it is a rwd starter motor..
Regarding the material removal from the block.. hey it's all a unknown attempt this swap.. I hope it works, if it doesn't and something fails then i've learnt a lesson and can re-asses different ways to do it.
I didn't think I had removed much at all in the way of the strength though, the thick sections that span from the rear main area haven't really been touched, just some of the webbing inbetween..
We'll see
This isn't a 600hp engine either.. My aim is around 350hp..
Cheers
Joel
Not so much progress today. Engine mount on driver side of block has been done. Yseries bellhousing makes gearbox lean on a 5 deg angle or there abouts so had to modify gearbox xmember to suit.
Block off plate for egr is done.
So tomorrow hopefully get mounts on engine xmember.
joel, can i ask what tool(s) you used to cut that big hunk o metal plate?
wow you make that look nearly too easy, what engine mounts are you going with?
Toyota AE93 Corolla 20v Silvertop
BF Mk II Xr6 Turbo Ute (tickled to 316kw)
Datsun 180sx turbo
Forester GT
Angle grinder followed by die grinder followed by flapper disc.
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