Intermittent Wheel Wobble @ 78kph onward

[Cameron_Datto]

Been through this before ,, The Mag wheels Centre locating Bore MUST locate on the Spigot of the wheel bearing Hub WITHOUT Movement , If you are relying on the wheel studs /nuts to centre the wheel , You get remount error which causes the vibration , the centre bore must locate the rim not the wheel studs , If you are still getting a vibration , Get a ON CAR Wheel balance , this will also take into account the balance on the brake rotors as well and also you can see if the tyre /rim is running true on the car when they spin them up . also make sure the contact faces that the rim bolts to are clean and bolts up flush . you only need a slight bit of rim run out to get a vibration .

[Admiral coFF33]

, Get a ON CAR Wheel balance , this will also take into account the balance on the brake rotors as well and also you can see if the tyre /rim is running true on the car when they spin them up .

Cameron, and everyone else saying "get a on car wheel balance"

how do they manage to rotate the front wheels when the car is RWD to do the balance ?

(just interested thats all)

Also, how will an "on car" balance confirm what the issue is ?

RE: 30mm nut to hold rotor/bearing in place, ill check it tomorrow if i feel up to it after drift tonight. Anyone got an idea on how tight the 30mm locating nut should be on the bearing ?

[LeeRoy]

Generally you do wheel bearings up so they're just past being nipped up. You want no play, but you don't want the bearing to be hard to turn - so between those two points.

Last thing you want is to be putting excess pressure on the bearing, which will make them wear out faster, and result in play. Nut is kept tight by a split pin and castelated locking thing that goes on top of the nut.

[CrUZida]

Been through this before ,, The Mag wheels Centre locating Bore MUST locate on the Spigot of the wheel bearing Hub WITHOUT Movement , If you are relying on the wheel studs /nuts to centre the wheel , You get remount error which causes the vibration , the centre bore must locate the rim not the wheel studs

Sorry, but I don't agree with that (except for the mounting error causing vibration).
Even from factory the fitment of the centre bore to the hub is not perfect. There is a good 0.5mm difference in the size, and very little of the wheel centre would actually come in contact with the hub.

The issue with centering nuts only occurs when the nuts are not tightened up in the correct sequence. A lot of places will tighten one nut up fully before the others are even close to tight. This is where you can get a nasty vibration. If its done up with the correct sequence and in stages you can pretty much guarantee its going to be perfect. (assuming nothing is worn).


All that said, I totally agree an on car balance is a damn good way for coff33 to eliminate the whole wheel/hub/bearing assembly as the cause. Wouldn't have a clue where to find one in Perth though...

[WDE_BDY]

Nut is kept tight by a split pin and castelated locking thing that goes on top of the nut.

That pic is a stake nut, do up to correct tightness and then you punch in the top edge of the nut into the slot on the thread to stop it turning. Supposed to be single use, however have seen them re-used.

Callum

[gazza53]

I understand that you have coilovers on the car, but have you had the car on a suspension tester?
Might show up something thats hapening with harmonics.

[LeeRoy]

Been through this before ,, The Mag wheels Centre locating Bore MUST locate on the Spigot of the wheel bearing Hub WITHOUT Movement , If you are relying on the wheel studs /nuts to centre the wheel , You get remount error which causes the vibration , the centre bore must locate the rim not the wheel studs.

This is a bit misleading...yes it locates the wheel but unless it is an interference fit between the wheel and the hub locating ring, then you are never going to have it 100% no matter how much you argue...Same goes for hubs rings taking the weight of the car which is somewhat untrue also.

However, by doing the nuts up incrementally and in sequence they will pull the wheel into the center.

[Cameron_Datto]

[QUOTE=CrUZida]Sorry, but I don't agree with that (except for the mounting error causing vibration).
Even from factory the fitment of the centre bore to the hub is not perfect. There is a good 0.5mm difference in the size, and very little of the wheel centre would actually come in contact with the hub.



Iam not Trying to start a Argument on who is right or wrong , But have you had this Vibration above 80Km/h , Or you are working on Theories ,When you get a Vibration above 80 km/hr and it dosen`t respond to a wheel balance you need to look @ all rotating parts and In PRACTISE I have fixed a lot wheel vibrations caused By wheel Remount Error by making sure your Centre locating Bore is correct . Yes i have had cars that never had a vibration problem and didn`t have locating ring , But I have found this vibration problem seems to be very sensitive correct mounting with rims above 17" dia .

With a on Car balance a Electric Motor spins the from wheels up .. i have also found Disc rotors to be out of balance causing a vibration ,a on Car balance takes this into account due to rotor rotating as well

Don`t assume all off car Dynamic wheel balancer machines are correct as well , due not getting calibrated regulary and wheels getting dropped on the Shaft of the machine and upsetting the calibration . or getting mounting errors when the rim is tightened up on the wheel balancer . Also check the rims for Bends and buckels when the rim is spun up .

A good way to elimimate the wheels from the vibration problem is to bolt another set of rims on that you know are ok and roadtest the car if the problem is gone you know you problem is with the wheels .. if it is still there check your steering and suspension joints
You only need the mounting error the thickness of business card to get a Vibration ..

[nF.]

are you sure its not tail shaft or something drive train related?

["Z" UTE]

Mate I had the same problem on my wifes car. Wobble at about 80kph. under than no drama's over that no drama's. An absolute pain in the ass changed disc rotors on the advice of a reputable shop, no bloody difference. Wheel bearings, countless wheel balances. In the end I bought a new set of tyres, problem solved. Damn tyres had a weak ass carcase and when they sat for a couple of days they would deform, and we had a runout problem.

cheers Chuck.

[Admiral coFF33]

[
A good way to elimimate the wheels from the vibration problem is to bolt another set of rims on that you know are ok and roadtest the car if the problem is gone you know you problem is with the wheels .. if it is still there check your steering and suspension joints
You only need the mounting error the thickness of business card to get a Vibration ..

Mate I had the same problem on my wifes car. Wobble at about 80kph. under than no drama's over that no drama's. An absolute pain in the ass changed disc rotors on the advice of a reputable shop, no bloody difference. Wheel bearings, countless wheel balances. In the end I bought a new set of tyres, problem solved. Damn tyres had a weak ass carcase and when they sat for a couple of days they would deform, and we had a runout problem.

cheers Chuck.

Hey guys, thanks for all the ideas,

So yesterday arvo i put on the AVS model 5's i have that i drift with (with soarer)
They are +30 offset so they sit on the Mark II fine without spacers.

17x8 +30
215/45/R17

The wheel wobble is LESS violent but still apparent at 80+ kph

at the top of this page.

I still believe the following:

The wheel bearings are not the issue
The Rotors that have seen ~50,000kms are not the issue
The slipon spacers (5mm) are not the issue
The wheels/tyres etc are not the issue


The STUDS in the HUBS/ROTOR im yet to check, but if you can all please read the post at the TOP of this page where i have MSPAINT spec diagrams of the rotor and plz try and understand what im talking about and give me an opinion on that.

[CrUZida]

All rotors do that. The studs are 12mm wide, and the holes in the rotor are 13mm wide (give or take).

You'll always get movement on any floating rotor.

["Z" UTE]

at the top of this page.

I still believe the following:

The wheel bearings are not the issue
The Rotors that have seen ~50,000kms are not the issue
The slipon spacers (5mm) are not the issue
The wheels/tyres etc are not the issue


The STUDS in the HUBS/ROTOR im yet to check, but if you can all please read the post at the TOP of this page where i have MSPAINT spec diagrams of the rotor and plz try and understand what im talking about and give me an opinion on that.

Mate the holes are perfectly spaced circles, the studs are also perfectly spaced. Given that the holes are a little larger than the studs, the studs will allways be a little off centre of the holes, but always the same amount for each hole/stud.
This is NOT a problem.

cheers Chuck.

[Admiral coFF33]

All rotors do that. The studs are 12mm wide, and the holes in the rotor are 13mm wide (give or take).

You'll always get movement on any floating rotor.

Ok, so you know what im talking about .

good (you seem to be the only one so far)


NOW

are MX83/X81 front rotors "floating" rotors,
ie. same as front of A70/Z20

[CrUZida]

Yes, they are floating rotors.

If they weren't floating rotors you wouldn't be able to see where the studs went through the holes (because the studs don't go through the holes).