1JZGTE problem, rev limiter/ idle

[chris davey]

no problem mate

Hope the new o2 sensor sorts out the rev limit thingy. Throwing any codes now?

[ndgcpr]

I will be having a quick look at the car tomorrow as well as fitting a better starting circuit so we will see what i can see, is there a nice way to test o2 sensors? Any one want to offer what i should check electrically?

[SL666]

but then after about 1.5-2 seconds the note of the whistle changes totally and begins to sound like an old school kettle! i will have to track that noise down as it is most annoying and just doesn't sound cool!

sounds like the bov line isn't connected (the pressure under boost holds it closed)

sweet to hear the ISCV fixed it

[GZP51]

lolo which bov are you talking about mate? the stock plumb back bov? i DID have it blocked off internally at one stage but god knows what i have these days on there.. i will have to have a look into THAT as well this weekend!
cheers
matt

[EldarO]

lolo which bov are you talking about mate? the stock plumb back bov? i DID have it blocked off internally at one stage but god knows what i have these days on there.. i will have to have a look into THAT as well this weekend!
cheers
matt

i think you'll find that the O2 sensor wont change a thing, as people dont even know theirs is cactus until they notice a REALLY shitty economy.

i dont think its the BOV either, as it wouldnt be causing the rev limit.

honestly, to me, it sounds like your ECU is going into limp mode, why, i dont know, but its obviously related to boost, becaus eyour car free revs in neutral, when there is no boost, and as soon as you hit boost, it limits.

try this, take off, get up into second gear, and put your clutch in, rev it up, past the "limiter" and slowly let your clutch out, and pin point exactly where it cuts-in. DONT dump the cltuch you cheeky bugger!

if it starts happening when it starts getting load, its obviously boost-related...

maybe the ECU is sensing something funky with the fuel....? fuel system cant keep up...? or something

awesome to hear that your idle is fixed!

Eldar.O.

[SL666]

bov problem = whistle

bov <> rev limit unless you have AFM

[ndgcpr]

We blocked off some pipes i didn't like and the whistle seems to have calmed down. It still does a bit but its hard to tell if its still kettle/induction/turbo noises. Also had alot of trouble running it today, resoldered a wire on the ECU, and swapped out the map with a jzz30 one and it seems to be working now. Totally smoked my little 1G slugger, i can't believe how much power this thing has, and he still can't go over 5G!!!!

Although we haven't really talked or tested since the new map went in so hopefully the thing rev's high although i am sure i would have got a happy note from him if it was so i guess it still cuts

[GZP51]

yes gav it still definately cuts out, although it is not as high on the limiter, it seems to cut about 5000-5200 but i am going to throw my power FC in again and see how that goes with it. although we tried that yesterday.
you have to let it idle for 10 mins with nothing on and then turn on the rear demister and let it idle for another 10 and then turn on the AC and let it idle for another 10....
when i tried this about 4 weeks ago it got through the first 5 minutes or so fine then went spastic severely hunting for idle. It was like i was there pumping the accelerator and it was surging between 500rpms and 1300 although i did have some really porked up idle and ecu problems at the time!!!! when we tried it yesterday it sat there and idled/purred smoothly until the 5 mins into the rear demister part and then it sort of picked up its idle then it dropped away slowly... then it picked it up again and slowly dropped away.. nothing severe or worrying in the least as it was "self learning" i assumed. Then the fucker just stopped altogether and wouldn't restart!!!!!! the same problem that i have been having on and off again since that one fateful night with chris davey ;-)
now that gav has soldered that wire up nicely for me that problem has not re arisen at all so i am going to give the power FC one more shot and then if it doesn't work leave it to the professionals on friday but i would really like to have it in there and running before the dyno so that i am not wasting my time/money with them letting it self learn for at least half an hour when they are charging $60/hr if you know what i mean!
So i will hopefully be posting back up here in about an hour with some results at least on the PFC front that is
thanks for all your help and insight guys
cheers
matt
p.s: thanks for yesterday's work gav it starts a treat mate! and thanks for the confirmation on the o2 sensor too Eldar as i was fairly sure that it wouldn't be the problem but was going to get it done anyways to eliminate one more possibility if you know what i mean i think i may have a slight exhaust leak too.. i have been scraping it everywhere and when i let gav drive it he did bottom out on the road doing about 230kl/hr :-P lol not really but it does hit all the time! will have to get that sorted as well or it will be one smelly dyno run!
cheers
matt

[GZP51]

on an interesting side not.. i can hardly hear my turbos at all now... and all i can hear is induction noise.. the bov still actuates so therefore there is still boost there so they are working... just no noise
wtf? lol my car is a mysterious and fickle bitch

[EldarO]

at 5k RPM, your not getting anything from the 1J, they are a high revving engine, and bulk power is made up high, so i think you'll be suprised

you have a boost guage dont you? my car had a hooting noise when i got it back from getting the head done, i kid you not, it sounded exactly like an owl, then it developed a whistle, both of which were boost leaks, the hooting was about 4 times the size

Exhaust leak will cause you a bit of greif, my exhaust is well shagged, and the car runs funkier than a whores panties, erratic at best, sometimes boost will hit like a kick in the nuts, other times it wont matter how much boost, all feels the same, although im sure my auto has something to do with it..

i still think the ECU is detecting something funky and cutting the rev range, as it feels way too controlled to be a part malfunctioning, the other possibility is that the ECU is detecting something right before it rev limits, and it wont show up on the error codes because its only present when it is under load, and at 5k RPM...

puzzling little thing this is... :/

Eldar.O.

[GZP51]

well i decided to plug in the power FC today and it made it all the way through its self learning process!!! hooray!!!! so i got the missus to jump in the passenger seat and tell me what the commander was reading out as i took it for a run...
i was easy on it as i know that the pfc only comes with stock maps and all that sort of shit! but i did have to give it a little to see what would happen with another ecu!
now one thing that did happen with the power fc is that when it hit about 4K revs the engine light flashed on and a "different" sort of rev limiter occurred. the missus then asked me " what does this -knock- thing mean on the fc commander" ?
oh shitfuck... really? was my reply. So when i was under boost and a few revs the little bar beside knock sensor was going spastically mental at me. what does this mean? the 1j's don't come out with knock sensors do they? is this some phantom gremlin with the pfc thinking that i have a knock sensor when i dont???? what is the go? also the turbo tooting kettle style whistle is totally gone and i can only really hear induction noise now... what is going on? i am going to leave the pfc in it for now as i want to get it dynoed with it in/on i will just baby it i spose. which means i won't be able to drive it because all i want to do is cane the tits of the piece of shit! lol
what do you guys think? anyone got experience with Power FC's??? what about this knock sensor bullshit? should i take it out and go back to the other ecu?
also i want to hook up my EBC before i get it dynoed.. i won't do anything stupid and run like 20psi through it even tho i MAY be tempted!!! lol
thanks in advance
cheers
matt

[manny]

Matt

The flashing check engine light is the knock alert on a Power FC - even though it may detect knock at lower levels as can be monitored on the hand controller, it only flashes the check engine light for knocking beyond the scale value of 60 which it determines is very serious knocking which can damage/destroy your engine.

Have you got fresh 98 RON fuel in there?
Is the fuel pump you've fitted capable of running a 1JZ-GTE at boost?
Is the fuel pump healthy?
Fuel filter been replaced?
Adequate pressure at the fuel rail?

Give me a call tomorrow and I'll take you through the procedure of removing timing across the board so you can do some more testing with it safely before you get the tune.

[SL666]

there are 2 knock sensors and if they trigger it will retard the timing and probably do that funky 'feels like a limiter' type action..

they are on the block underneath the intake manifold.. evenly spaced along the block... i'd go looking for loose wires maybe..

[chris davey]

And if all of your fuel delivery system is up to the task, I can sell you a bottle of this Martini Super Boost I just got which is a high quality octane booster. In a test HPI did, they could advance timing 7 deg more with this stuff in. So in your case, if you put it in and it lowers the knock reading then I would say it is a crappy octane fuel that has been sitting around for ages. Let me know mate

[GZP51]

ok the fuel i have in there IS fresh 98 ron fuel. the pump is able to keep up with a 1jzgte under boost (i am saying this due to the amount of other people that have done this conversion to this car and never had to change it)
beats me if it is healthy (the pump that is)
haven't done the fuel filter yet
no idea what the fuel pressure at the rail is and or if it is adequate!
so changing the fuel filter sounds like it is a must.

chris i will call you tomorrow
cheers
matt