1JZGTE problem, rev limiter/ idle

[ndgcpr]

Since we changed the map sensor on it i guess your old one was stuffed. My guess is that the power FC did its diag in a controlled run, then when it switched to a closed circuit and started reading the map (which was the old one) then it died, thats my guess for it just dropping out yesterday.

I read the knock thing on the power FC screen and thought they may be triggering, i meant to have a quick look for them on the motor, hopefully (since toyota likes everything the same) they should be 2 green plugs up near the top of the motor, if one is broken then that would explain a bit, like why the new motor has probs where the old one didn't. Fingers crossed eh? I have little experiance with 1J's but hopefully the knocks are up near the top of the motor just under your intake platnium (or whatever), Anyone care to share what happens if these are simply not plugged in?

After a quick read this is pretty much what SL666 wrote but it took me a while to write this so i am leaving it here

[SL666]

if the wires are completely broken through the factory ECU will chuck a code and retard timing and generally make it go slow.. (speaking from experience) the back one sucks to try and get to BTW

[chris davey]

I was under the impression that just about any code that the ecu threw would put it into limp mode. When I was in the car it felt like it wasn't pulling as hard as it should but I don't know if it was full throttle as we were just testing.

With the stock ecu in and in limp mode you should be able to see the exhaust manifolds getting VERY hot. This is because it will retard the timing for safety and I assume it will be retarded pretty close to the mark where the flame will be burning while the exhaust vale is opening. I don't know if you can see the cast manifolds heat up easily but on a tubular style mani you can.

SO what is different about this new rev limiter at 4000rpm on the PFC? SL666 is right. There is 2 knock sensors and they are both a pain to get to IMO. If you check for continuity between the sensors and the ecu pins and that is good then I think one of them may be stuffed. In which case, I have 2 on my spare engine which seemed to work fine but I have never had to pull one out

Chris

[GZP51]

another thing about the pfc is the fact that on the commander screen the ignition timing is always changing.... it is moving between 13 and 7 degrees during normal idle. after reading what you guys have written it is my guess that i do indeed have a knock sensor that is kebabarooted therefore i am in need of some more explanation as to what they look like how to test them where the hell they are and etc etc. chris i would just come over to your place and say can you show me how to get these little piggies off but man the car would be way too warm by the time i got there.. it is nice and cold at the moment so i think i might go looking for them as soon as i can and definately before i take it for a drive! lol
cheers
matt

[manny]

If the knock sensor(s) were disconnected or a knock sensor signal wire was broken, it would not be registering knock on the PFC or retarding ignition on the factory ECU as is suspected.
Fluctuating ignition timing at idle is normal for the factory ECU and the PFC as it tries to smooth idle.
I personally would never trust a 15 year old under rated fuel pump to run a larger and more powerful engine - for $175, a Walbro would be safe insurance against another cooked engine.
Don't forget that the PFC's base map is based on 100 RON Jap fuel and also don't forget that like any other aftermarket ECU, the PFC will NOT retard timing if it detects knock - it will only give you the visual alert by triggering the MIL light.
Every major knock alert is a few steps closer to a ventilated piston.

[GZP51]

ok the pfc is now out of the car again, the fuel filter has been changed and OMFG what a pain in the ass that was!!! it is now running a z200 V6 commodore fuel filter that from now and ever will be easy as hell to change with whatever filter i want to run on it. this is thanks to some inventive pipe plumbing and the fact that a standard fuel filter is $60 as opposed to the commodore filter at $12!
Now i put the standard ecu back in it as when i restarted the car this afternoon after all the rigamarole the filter gave me it was hunting for idle (looking for fuel in the lines that wasn't there) and then it started to settle then drop then settle than drop.
Is this because of my alarm system? is it possible that my alarm is killing the power to the ECU before it has a chance to save the settings after a self learning procedure? i have read somewhere on the (everything you read is true) internet that this can be a problem?
also what about my VSV? who knows how the hell this is rigged up with vaccuum lines at the moment although i did get the gf's jzz30 out of the garage and put them side by side to try and get the vacc lines as close to the Z30's as i could... i am pretty sure they are not 100% correct yet.. i am about to do a search on the ALSC archive for VSV setups as i hear that they can cause leanage/detonation/knock... didn't you have a problem of this sort manny?
thanks for the input guys and once i get some cash a new fuel pump is going in it.. unless anyone knows anyone with a 2nd hand decent pump that would do me for now???
cheers
matt

[GZP51]

i was looking for the post on the ALSC archive and beats me where to find it.. all i can see is people whinging about being cold from their heaters not working lol!
i have a more serious issue than that... andrew told me to hit the forums and look it up as i told him that my VSV or something near there.. mounted to the firewall little diaphragm looking valve thingy would open and shut when i tickled the throttle depending on vaccuum.. am i looking at the right thing? what is it? anyone know? gav if you are out there it is the thing that you told me you took off the gz20 wreck that you had to fit to your z10! andrew tells me that if it IS my vsv than moving with throttle is bad!
any help is always great
cheers
matt

[GZP51]

ok vsv is sorted out.. exactly same as gf's z30 now! and doesn't seem to be opening with throttle anymore.. problem is still there with 5K limiter...

[chris davey]

Is it possible to borrow a fuel pressure guage? Easy way to check if the fuel pump is in good order and that it can supply the fuel when under load. I had to borrow one from my mechanic one day so I suspect that the place that did your conversion would have one laying around to test with.

[GZP51]

i can always ask i spose! i will call them in the morning and let them tell me to get fucked! lol
cheers
matt

[ndgcpr]

i am not sure what a VSV is but i showed you the heater valve that uses vacume to open and close it, i also had to run a one way valve to stop it closing on boost.

[GZP51]

my mechanics did indeed tell me to get fucked.. at least until next week! anyways thinking about pulling the fuel pump out tomorrow and having a look/play with it and see what i can do. maybe clean it blow it out with compressed air or some such, may even try to swap in a fuel pump from an 80's model 3litre skyline to see if that will make any difference!
will keep you all posted for sure!
cheers
matt

[ndgcpr]

how did the knock sensor search go? would be interested in fixing that.

[chris davey]

He found them Said they were both plugged in which would be correct for the PFC to get a value. I don't know how to actually test them. I think they are fine and there is still an issue with fuel delivery. Pump, FPR are about the only things left. Did you clean the fuel lines if you took them out of the car when doing conversion?

[SL666]

i recon it is pinging too.. a knock sensor is like a microphone.. its unlikely it would get MORE sensitive.. need to check the AFR's but i suggest its running stupid lean.. i point a big ugly bone back at the MAP sensor..