Thermo fans and engine temps

[1JZ.747]

Do you have heat wrap/insulation around the exhaust/manifold/dump in the engine bay atm?
It does wonders!

everything is hpc coated and i run a turbo bag aswell.

[mx83toy]

The pair of Magna fans cost me $90 from a wrecker. Normally they come as a split shroud that joins in the middle. One fan is an A/C fan and the other is the main cooling fan. I got two of the bigger ones and rivetted the two shrouds together.

cant belive you done this!!!!!! its excactlt what i used!!!!! when the hydro one decided to fluck everything in my engine bay up totally!!!! how much air do the lil barstards move!!!ppl have been asking what fans they were for ages i think i still got a set in the garage actually I changed to a set of repco ones not bad.... but definantly going to SPAL's Sideshow!!! how hard do nicks come on in the datto hey??

ps its finnished again

[mx83toy]

ohh ps shane i had the same issues too!!!

the prob has actually got alot to do with heat soak a few guyz sugested vents try that.... i took the lining off my bonnet and put some spacers in and vwulla

[SL666]

you know that spacing the rear off the bonnet up will force air into the engine bay and stop as much air moving through the radiator at speed though yeah? as its a high pressure area.. thats why they put the vent intakes there..

same as if you take the sump covers off modern cars..

[ripfast]

go to www.calaisturbo.com.au and find tuff car parts he sells AU thermos pretty cheap from memory.

mine running up hill hit 95, on a 37 degree day, thats with a new commodore radiator running a 16inch thermo.

[monstadore]

shane,
Also check that the blades are pitched in the right direction - they will still throw air if they are on backwards, but sometimes up to 50% less of it. Check that the blades are pitched to actually scoop the air and force it back. Just something to check.
The hydraulic fans flow a massive amount of air when fully loaded - an amount i dont think a single 16inch will equal. By blocking all alternative pathways for the air to escape around the fan, you might gain something there - remember air flow is like electricity flow in as much as it always takes the path of least resistance.
Personally I would remove the thermostat altogether along with the impellor in the waterpump, then fit an electric waterpump in series with the bottom radiator hose. You could use a seperate temp controller ( microtech perhaps?) to allow a greater cooling system flow at the lower end of the rpm scale where you might need it.
Craig.

[SL666]

If you have cooling issues, fitting an electric water pump is not going to fix it.

[mx83toy]

you know that spacing the rear off the bonnet up will force air into the engine bay and stop as much air moving through the radiator at speed though yeah? as its a high pressure area.. thats why they put the vent intakes there..

same as if you take the sump covers off modern cars..

yeah i know ....only helped with the slower speeds, i got a nice vent lined up now...

[monstadore]

If you have cooling issues, fitting an electric water pump is not going to fix it.

They promote far better cooling circulation at lower engine speeds when connected and set up properly. Agreed though if your thermo is inadequate to start with ( apparently) it will be a bandaid at best, but once thermo is properly set up would most definitely be adventageous.

[mx83toy]

man since you've spent like close to a billion dollars on the car....just get a PWR rad and a pair of SPAL fans too anyway cause its da shit to have!!! LoL I'm actually thinking of switching to em as well for some reason they really do make a difference....on a SR datto we built up it had a commi 3 core rad and repco fans and had cooling issues, but now with the PWR stuff it stays WAY cooler!!! when the fans come on you can litteraly watch the needle drop like your doing it by hand!!!! good luck with it any way man!!! ps i might be hitting you up for one of those mircotec's soon....your still running the A340 correct????

[Disturbed1]

can anyone tell me why shrouds such as the aluminium one on the prevous page help. i would have thought that it would be better without it

[CrUZida]

If, say, a 16" thermo is bolted straight to a radiator, then it will only cool that 16" it covers.
The rest of the radiator will not get any assisted cooling.

If you space the thermo out from the radiator by 1/2" or so, and not use a shroud, it will draw air from around the thermo, not from in front of the radiator, because there is less resistance.

If you make up a shroud like the one in the previous page, then (a) it will pull air from in front of the radiator, and (b) it will pull air from the entire radiator.

[1JZ.747]

shane,
Also check that the blades are pitched in the right direction - they will still throw air if they are on backwards, but sometimes up to 50% less of it. Check that the blades are pitched to actually scoop the air and force it back. Just something to check.
The hydraulic fans flow a massive amount of air when fully loaded - an amount i dont think a single 16inch will equal. By blocking all alternative pathways for the air to escape around the fan, you might gain something there - remember air flow is like electricity flow in as much as it always takes the path of least resistance.
Personally I would remove the thermostat altogether along with the impellor in the waterpump, then fit an electric waterpump in series with the bottom radiator hose. You could use a seperate temp controller ( microtech perhaps?) to allow a greater cooling system flow at the lower end of the rpm scale where you might need it.
Craig.

i was meaning to call you about this last night.

i spoke to paul with the twoogle GTR he runs a single 16 inch thermo and it keeps is cool perrectly unsing the facotry rad.

i believe the shroud desgin is my problem after playing around and feeling air escaping out the side. i am goin to play with the shroud to see if it fixes the problem

mx83toy, i dont need to go to pwr, with the hydrolic it never got hot even with a half clogged radiator. i would just go back to a ydrolic if it comes down to it.

[Disturbed1]

my 7m doesnt have a radiator shroud at all, just the 1 hydrolic fan ensures that the temp gauge never goes ova half - and thats even if u let the car idle on the spot for 30 min, dont know why some people have alot of temp related problems but i too will be going for thermos soon so lets see if anything changes

[ProjectSleeper]

It all comes down to set up and intended use..
I have run cars without shrouds and never had problems, then again, I didn't have 75mm of Intercooler, 15mm of Trans cooler and 30mm of Air con Condensor in front of them.

I don't think I get any airflow "through" the front and thru the radiator with my current set up, - but my fans seem to still do the job pretty well. At 80km/h my fans will cycle on and off about the same amount as they do when the car is idling.. - I have bought a new undertray and will be refitting that to see if it make any difference..

Shane, Try the foam and space it back and see if that helps, failing that - I am happy to let you try my set up and see if it works - will take about 30mins of stuffing around, and about $25 in coolant... but it will certainly give you an idea if it works for you...