Changing 1GGTE Head Gasket

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Thanks for the torque figure.

I got it from a forum goer who'd bought a VRS kit, but then bought an HKS gasket. He had it lying around still.

Well, 2/3 of the way removing the head. There is a bejesus load of stuff to remove Hopefully I'll have it off tonight, drop it off to head place tomorrow, and pick it up Friday arvo for weekend HG replacement.

[Forcefed6]

Are you gonna do valve stem seals while you have the head off.. Because it is much easier this way..

Toyota want some rediculas price for valve stem seals for a 1GGTE, but 7mgte are the same, as are alot of other toyota engines for which you can buy ACL seals for a fraction of genuine.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Nope, not on this engine. They don't smoke in the slightest, so I figure I'll leave them, and i'll do them on the other engine.

Thanks for the tip on 7MGTE VSS though!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Well, finally got the head off, and looky what we found:

[JustCallMeOrlando]

And one more for luck They were #1, this is #5. I can't believe this thing was so civilised, a 7M would've cried and given up long ago...

[Merudo]

Lets face it, the 1G might be put in some cars wayyyy to heavy for it, but she's still a tough as nails bulletproof beautiful sounding engine.


oh woe... why did my 1G leaveme ... haha

[YelloRolla]

Tap the head bolt holes out with a nice sharp bottoming tap. I think that the 1G is M10 x 1.25. A tungsten chrome tap will cost about $12-15. Make sure that it is a bottoming tap (1 x ground leading thread and has a flat bottom to get right to the bottom of the hole).
Clean the threads so that there is no oil or water in them prior to tapping them. Tap them with no lube (it will go like wet cement and be hard to turn the tap if you use lube).
I clean the swarf out with a vacuum cleaner when it's done.

This makes fitting the bolts nice and ensures that torque is lost to the drag created by poor thread contact.

As mentioned - head studs are the go (but I am usre that you understand that).

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Cheers for that Jase. Yeah, I know studs are the way to go, but not on this engine. Definetly on the next one though.

[gwilmarlio]

I have a copy of the workshop manual here...
Cheers

dude do you have a 1G workshop manual ??? english ??
if so where from

[Forcefed6]

Yes I have a PDF copy of the 1G workshop manual in parts. Not sure where I got it from tho.

I have 1GGE in english and 1GGTE,1GGZE in japanese. 1GGE manual is all you need tho as torque settings and stuff are all the same.

[gwilmarlio]

there wouldnt be any way I could get a copy I have a GA70 but every bit helps

[Big rob]

either of you guys wouldnt mind e-mailing me or telling me where you got those manuals. Pleasssssssssssssssssssssse .

[Forcefed6]

If you want a copy of the english 1GGE manual.. Email me here and I will try and get a copy to you soon.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I'd +rep you Mullet, but I can't. The oilstone was the best suggestion evah. The block is nice and smooth now. Cheers!

[Smokey228]

how much would a HG and Headstuds roughly set me bak?

i got a dead one here, given that the heads not fucked, im just gonna wack a HG on and check for comp. hope that all is good and get it running in the car, atleast till i finish building a bullet 1g...
i dont know wt to expect from the studs i got here now, so i think it might be a good idea to replace. but if its gonna cost a fair bit, then ill just use the old ones... anyway to tell if they are fubared?

YelloRolla, wat is this tool ur talking about? so it basically cleans out the thread, then just suck up the crap it scrapes off?? where would one find this tool?
also, where would u find an oilstone?

Forcefed6, cool if i grab a copy of that manual too???

thanks guys,
may the +rep rain from the skys above ahahha