1jz-gte relays and tech info and help

[Jaemus]

well i will say that the check light doesnt necessarily indicate power, but it should give a general indication that the ECU is powered up WHEN that light is wired up to the dash so check that too

[SL666]

doesn't the ecu send the 'crank' signal to the starter?

[LeaThaL]

doesn't the ecu send the 'crank' signal to the starter?

that im not quite sure of as ive been told it does send that signal but ive also been told that where ive done the body harness to the ecu, that it gives it power then but yeah :S

[Jaemus]

hmm
i thought that worked more the other way around, the starter sends crank signal to the ECU so it knows to dump fuel in for cold start

[Shakotan_Aaron]

Hi..

I haven't read this right thru, but have you sorted the neutral start switch??? ie if auto ecu in use...

Justr a thought

[LeaThaL]

im still using a auto and she turns over fine but it just doesnt get any other signals

[wilbo666]

Eek, man...

Sorry, but that wiring job isn't decent
In fact it looks far from it

I can appreciate that you put in a decent effort, but it's time to do it again!


Suggestions...
1) While your solder joints look OK, I prefer to simply tin each exposed end (~6-8mm is enough exposed wire) and then solder (after applying heatshrink).



2) Heatshrink is 1000% better than black electrical tape! Just remember to apply before soldering Simply heat with a heat gun, hair-drier or lighter to make it smaller!
www.jaycar.com.au
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=808

3) If using the crimp terminals (i.e. the Narva ones you have), try and make sure you only strip as little as possible... you shouldn't be able to see and copper sticking out the end of the plug (as you can in your photo).

The rear section of the 'crimp terminal' is meant to crimp on the insulation on the wire (not try and crimp to bare copper, that is the first 'crimp' sections job)



Cheers
Wilbo

ok so this is the story so far, 1jz turns over, gets no fuel or spark, dont have a "check engine" light so from what im told the ECU isnt getting power so this is what i did....


armed with these little buggers, a 7m-gte plug i got off a old loom, a soldering iron, solder, wire cutters and my wiring plans i hit at it again


for the first plug "the engine loom to ecu loom plug" i used a old 7m-gte body loom plug i cut off my old loom, i connected the correct wires and twice checked it, then soldered them giving this result....



once finished i got this which i feel is nice enough to pass what i call "decent"


and then i did the same for the engine to dash loom setup, checked each one twice, soldered them together, made it nice and clean, and used one of my nice new toys to get this result.....

[LeaThaL]

Eek, man...

Sorry, but that wiring job isn't decent
In fact it looks far from it

I can appreciate that you put in a decent effort, but it's time to do it again!


Suggestions...
1) While your solder joints look OK, I prefer to simply tin each exposed end (~6-8mm is enough exposed wire) and then solder (after applying heatshrink).



2) Heatshrink is 1000% better than black electrical tape! Just remember to apply before soldering Simply heat with a heat gun, hair-drier or lighter to make it smaller!
www.jaycar.com.au
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=808

3) If using the crimp terminals (i.e. the Narva ones you have), try and make sure you only strip as little as possible... you shouldn't be able to see and copper sticking out the end of the plug (as you can in your photo).

The rear section of the 'crimp terminal' is meant to crimp on the insulation on the wire (not try and crimp to bare copper, that is the first 'crimp' sections job)



Cheers
Wilbo

how you mean solder after you heat shrink? and i was gunna get some but i thought this would be a decent temp solition but i will have to clean it all up properly again

i still cant get why im not gettin power to my ecu tho and i dont know if its a error in my under bonnet loom connection or if its the under dash connection so ill study the crap outta it tonight

[wilbo666]

What you want to do is use a multimeter to trace back from plug T on the engine ECU (image below).

If you don't know how to trace with a multimeter let us know

Another thing to bear in mind is that your car should have all these wires as they used to go to the 7M ecu too...

You wiring should have been a 'connect the dots' experience if done correctly

Pin1&Pin12 = +B (Ignore the idiot that has 1=BT ): This is switched power via the Main EFI Relay.

Pin 2 = BATT: This should have constant battery power. If BATT isn't connected in the manner I described, then your ECU will have to relearn its fuel trims, idle, etc every time you turn it on (dumb).

Pin 3 = M-REL: This is the output from the engine ECU to switch the Main EFI Relay

IGSW: This should get fed power (+12V) from the ignition barrel when the ignition key is in the crank and run position, this is what the ECU uses to know when to trigger the M-REL on/off.

STA: +12V when the ignition barrel is in the Crank position.

Also
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...+opening+relay

And
Here is another document that tells us how the M-REL system is meant to work!

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

At a quick look I'm pretty sure 1jz-gte use "Dual Relays, Ignition Switch or ECU controlled"

Looking at the JZZ30 wiring diagram:
If you want to set your M-REL up so that it runs correctly, you should have...
>A 30A fuse supplying power to common connection on a normally open relay
>The switched power out of the relay goes to the +B and +B1 terminals on the ECU (these are joined inside the ECU as well in case you were interested!)
>The relay is trigger by the M-REL output of the ECU



Cheers
Wilbo

[LeaThaL]

What you want to do is use a multimeter to trace back from plug T on the engine ECU (image below).

If you don't know how to trace with a multimeter let us know

Another thing to bear in mind is that your car should have all these wires as they used to go to the 7M ecu too...

You wiring should have been a 'connect the dots' experience if done correctly

Pin1&Pin12 = +B (Ignore the idiot that has 1=BT ): This is switched power via the Main EFI Relay.

Pin 2 = BATT: This should have constant battery power. If BATT isn't connected in the manner I described, then your ECU will have to relearn its fuel trims, idle, etc every time you turn it on (dumb).

Pin 3 = M-REL: This is the output from the engine ECU to switch the Main EFI Relay

IGSW: This should get fed power (+12V) from the ignition barrel when the ignition key is in the crank and run position, this is what the ECU uses to know when to trigger the M-REL on/off.

STA: +12V when the ignition barrel is in the Crank position.

Also
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...+opening+relay

And
Here is another document that tells us how the M-REL system is meant to work!

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

At a quick look I'm pretty sure 1jz-gte use "Dual Relays, Ignition Switch or ECU controlled"

Looking at the JZZ30 wiring diagram:
If you want to set your M-REL up so that it runs correctly, you should have...
>A 30A fuse supplying power to common connection on a normally open relay
>The switched power out of the relay goes to the +B and +B1 terminals on the ECU (these are joined inside the ECU as well in case you were interested!)
>The relay is trigger by the M-REL output of the ECU



Cheers
Wilbo

well i did follow the plans on www.1jz.com and that was as you said, a red to red, blue to blue. on the plans i used there was random ones on the plan that just had a X as found here.

the cc computer ones that just have a X, i didnt know what they were for so i think ive just left them as is but thats the exact plan i followed for the plug i did.

is there a earth thats seperate or is it part of the loom?

and also by tracing you mean use a test light and just check each wire on iginition to see if its getting currency and what not?

sorry for all the n00b questions too, i just dont get wiring

[RONA]

how you mean solder after you heat shrink?

Put the heat shrink stuff up the wire, solder, move it into place use lighter voila done.

[wilbo666]

well i did follow the plans on www.1jz.com and that was as you said, a red to red, blue to blue. on the plans i used there was random ones on the plan that just had a X as found here.

I'm pretty sure I never said to simply connect colors to colors Don't trust colors, they can and do change.

and also by tracing you mean use a test light and just check each wire on iginition to see if its getting currency and what not?

Nope, use a multimeter ($10 at jaycar, go buy one if you don't have one!)

Put the multimeter in Ohms mode, and then unplug both ends.

For example if you had a complete 7mgte loom and wanted to trace back +B to the body loom plug, you would unplug the ECU plug that +B is on (use a 7mgte ECU pin out that shows you what pin on what plug +B is on the 7mgte ECU).

Then put one multimeter probe so it connects to the correct pin on the plug (you might need to use a small strand of wire as a 'probe' so you don't damage anything ). And with the other multimeter probe, 'probe' (test each pin) on the plug/s that you expect the wire to connect to. The wire it connects to will have close to 0 ohms resistance...

Just be careful you haven't found a ground that isn't always a ground tho (i.e. oil pressure sensor isn't a ground)...

Cheers
Wilbo

[LeaThaL]

a small update now

i got myself a multimeter and a few other goodies so ive been playing around

now thanks to triptek ive got the car running using the old "shove the red/black and yellow/black wires from the EA2 jza70 plug at the fusebox to the battery" trick and she ran no issues, ive since then put it back the way it was and found that i can get it to run when i only put the black/red wire to the battery and when it is connected i can hear some relay or somthing click from the back of the motor/prob behind the firewall so ive done some playing

after tracing around ive found that the main EFI relay is where all 3 wires ive connected to the supra loom run to, and that there is one wire remaining that is a Black/white wire which runs from number "1" position on the EFI relay so im to believe that this may be part of my problem altho it doesnt connect to the open/close side of the relay so im just tracing what the wire does on the mx83/7m-ge plans i got off here but no luck yet, seems im missing some of my plans

now im not 100% sure thats my total problem, but can anyone confirm that if my M-REL isnt getting power right, that if it willnot allow that relay to do what its meant to and if using that Black/red wire is just feeding a 12v power to the main relay and thus allowing the fuel pump and EFI system to fire up? cause as ive read above from wilbo, it normally gets its power when you have the ignition on.


thanks again to all helping out, but im just starting to get my head around all this wiring

[LeaThaL]

hey fella's

sorry to wake a old thread but ive wrapped my head around this issue as im having to check out my ISCV and im fitting a relay as i know what im doing!

at this point ive got M-REL going to 85 on the relay, 86 is earthed but also looped to 30 as a power soruce, is that fine? or does the power going to 30 have to be a constant 12v?

and then ive just got 87 going to +B1 and 87a to +B, is that fine?


cheers