Tuning a 3k for economy

**oldcorollas** · 08-02-2009, 10:58 PM

fairly hard vs on highway are a bit different

perhaps one of your jets was blocked

seriously tho, if they are running lean, they will use less fuel.. either by jet blockage or incorrect tuning.

all i know is that with weber tuned rich.. it sucked fuel horribly.
but with EFI, fuel on higheway nearly halved, and flogging around town wasn't far behind...

if you take off the restrictive air filter setups, they drink more also..

**Enri** · 09-02-2009, 12:36 PM

Originally Posted by cush

A relevant thread for today.

What can be done (aside from driving style) to get the highest economy out of a 3k.

How do you tune the buggers anyway?

A clean air filter.

**love ke70** · 09-02-2009, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by oldcorollas

fairly hard vs on highway are a bit different

perhaps one of your jets was blocked

seriously tho, if they are running lean, they will use less fuel.. either by jet blockage or incorrect tuning.

all i know is that with weber tuned rich.. it sucked fuel horribly.
but with EFI, fuel on higheway nearly halved, and flogging around town wasn't far behind...

if you take off the restrictive air filter setups, they drink more also..

20km fairly hard to the highway, then 20km down the highway in 4th.
the way it went, i wouldnt think one of the jets was blocked, it had power all the way out to where a standard 4k should

the only point i was making is with a healthy motor and well tuned, nothing should need to be changed from standard to achieve good economy

**gerald1** · 10-02-2009, 12:31 AM

i drove a 3k powered ke30 sedan from brisbane to adelaide and it was getting like 11 or 12L/100km...i think. but it was a 4 speed manual. im sure with a 5 speed it would be better. really good condition, well looked after. so who knows what we were doing wrong. highway cruising the entire way!

**love ke70** · 10-02-2009, 07:12 PM

theres something very wrong with that motor or part thereof

**cush** · 28-01-2010, 03:11 PM

I forgot about this thread..

My first run with the car...

After 200 and something km of driving, it came out at 6.1L/100km.... bugger...

Not much point trying to top that...

**Jason Broadhurst** · 31-01-2010, 08:35 PM

I find it interesting people say to clean the air filter to avoid restriction. The throttle plate is a huge restriction, a clogged filter just means you lose top end power. A clogged filter will require a little more throttle to make the same power, but in reality it is helping fuel econ

Has anyone asked if these motors have points? If so, tune the dwell for the rpm you plan to cruise at.

Another trick is to have a small air leak below the venturi's to lean out the mixtures.

The mixture screw should be adjusted till the highest vacuum can be reached, then the fast idle to set idle rpm. Go back and forth a few times to ensure everything is perfect. This will only effect VERY light loads and idle, nowhere near cruise.

Last there is jets and a carbi rebuild, which is the trickiest.

**MarkIIRx12** · 01-02-2010, 01:18 PM

6,1L pr 100km, if u were driving to save fuel, sounds a lil much in my opinion, or maybe the 3k is more thirsty than the 4k. My old ke70 wagon i had at Toyota and had the timing,carb and breakerpoints set. I used to rev the shit outa that engine and no matter what i did it had an average of 6L 100km on a tank. The head was shaved 1mm and i had a high output coil, but i dunno if that affected the fuel consumption much at all.

My new Ke70 with a 3k in, and hopefully with a 5spd tranny in it, i will have to say i will be a bit disapointed if i cant get it down to around 5L 100km's on highways, but maybe im being a bit optimistic.

I dont think starting to adjust the mixture screw will save u any fuel, as long as u dont have a co2 machine u wont be able to get it as perfect as a shop can get it for u, and most likely u will end up making the car use more fuel than before u started messing with it. My advice is take the car to a shop, get them to do the ignitiontiming and the carb at the same time, since thats really the only way to get it perfect. i paid like 50 bucks to get it done at toyota, and im sure i saved it back in a few tanks, not to mention how much more fun it is to drive when ur car runs smooth and react the way it should when i press the pedal.

I wont recomend anyone going for a weber to save fuel (yes i know some are happy with their webers ), i did that mistake on my 18R, in the beginning it worked fairly well, after a while it got the "weber disease", started drinking lots of fuel and stuttering and spitting like a madman. I will never again change a toyota carb for a weber unless its something really special, but thats just my personal opinion