AW11 + Blacktop 20v Conversion - No Start...

[wilbo666]

Almost any LED will work, and any resistor that limits the current to less than the LEDs max...

1k would be something I'd prbly use.

And if you don't want to have to worry about getting the LED in the right way, use two (with two separate resistors), one around the other way from the other

http://www.jaycar.com.au/

Cheers
Wilbo

[kassma]

Bumpsi... Any more ideas?

Thanks
MIKE.

[JP]

so injectors have power on ignition and during cranking?

[MR22ZZ]

could the injectors be blocked? ultrasonic clean?

[Chrisso]

LED flashes? ie. ECU is grounding injectors?

[Mooro]

Arrghh...the suspense is killing me Mike, i can't wait to hear about how it drives.

Have you ruled out the Map sensor yet?

Is it possible to stick the 16V injectors in just to see if they will squirt fuel?

[kassma]

Hey Mooro...

How are things... Hahahahaha... Yeah, the suspense is killing me too...

I, actually, don't work on the car during the week, as I just have too many things to do, and my life is just way to hecktick during the week. My dinners are usually about 8:30-9:00pm, and then followed by reading, with a drible of MR2 related topics. I usually do my research and collect info during the week, and keep working on the car on week-ends.

... Hence, I haven't done any more testing. But I will be doing this on Sat morning, first thing. Might just rig up the LED+Resistor now, as it's a simple thing to do.

No... I can not use the 16v injectors, as they are top feed, whereas the 20v are side feed. I think the 20v Injectors are the same as the 3sg(t)e injectors.

But will definitly be posting updates this sat evening... I've got a whole bunch of test that I'm planning on going through during the week-end.

PS: Yoh... R U Still located in WA???? ;-)

MIKE.

[Mooro]

Nope definitely in Tassie now...I sent a pm to a moderator to get my locaiton changed but nothing came of it.

Will be in Perth this Satuday before flying overseas and then spending a week in Perth in middle of Jan...maybe I can come round and checkout the running blacktop AW11

[kassma]

Hahahaha... Yeah, that will take a while. But then again, to be expected, as I think the moderators are doing this out of their own bat, on the side of having a full time job... so it ain't easy for them.

Cool... give me a bell (U still have my #) and come around to check it out. This Sat or in Middle of Jan... I will definitly have it running by then... (Me hope)

MIKE.

[kassma]

OK... I've further investigated the problem...

Injectors are definitly getting signal from ECU... I wired up a LED+Resister and I can see it flash when trying to start.

Checked the Fuel pump, and it definitly runs.

And the ECU doesn't give any error codes...

So it has to be somewhere in the fuel delivery... So far, I've...
1) Cleaned the injectors and they are OK.
2) Got a new fuel line from the fuel filter to the engine

I don't have a fuel pressure meter to see what the pressure is in the fuel rail...
Any thoughts?

Thanks
MIKE.

[JP]

so your fuel pump runs, the injectors are firing and you have spark...

Got compression?

Cam timing isn't out?

[wilbo666]

Firstly, No error codes, generally indicates a fuel problem

Secondly, LED flashing is a good sign that ECU etc is working

Thirdly, do you have fuel coming out the fuel return line from the rail when pump on? <Edit, first post says you do >

Fourthly,

• If you remove spark plugs (So as not to accidentally fill cylinders with fuel if the injectors are working from the fuel left in the rail )
• Have fuel pump off
• Unplug injectors
• Manually apply +12V to one side of injector and Ground to the other do you get a nice definite 'tick' noise?
• Then turn engine over before putting plugs back in, in case cyls are full of fuel to remove fuel without hydro locking engine

I'm still leaning towards stuck injectors

Cheers
Wilbo

[damo101]

Firstly, No error codes, generally indicates a fuel problem

Secondly, LED flashing is a good sign that ECU etc is working

Thirdly, do you have fuel coming out the fuel return line from the rail when pump on? <Edit, first post says you do >

Fourthly,

• If you remove spark plugs (So as not to accidentally fill cylinders with fuel if the injectors are working from the fuel left in the rail )
• Have fuel pump off
• Unplug injectors
• Manually apply +12V to one side of injector and Ground to the other do you get a nice definite 'tick' noise?
• Then turn engine over before putting plugs back in, in case cyls are full of fuel to remove fuel without hydro locking engine

I'm still leaning towards stuck injectors

Cheers
Wilbo

its not..they were ultra sonically cleaned..i did them. unless they have been blocked since i did them and to now.

[wilbo666]

its not..they were ultra sonically cleaned..i did them. unless they have been blocked since i did them and to now.

Personally I've heard reports that injector cleaning solutions are more prone to causing injectors to 'stick'...

I don't have any first hand experience in regards to injector cleaning and stuck injectors tho...just stuck injectors



Personally I'd run thought my test, it won't take that long...

JP also suggests some good things to check (Timing, Cam timing & compression )

Cheers
Wilbo

[kassma]

Hmmmm... Just come back from my garage...

Did a few checks...
1) Applied 12v to the injectos... Nothing, no clicking, no nothing... as if I didn't do anything at all... but I did put an LED in series, and even though current was going, nothing.
2) we checked by squezing the return line, and there is definitly pressure there, we even squeezed the return line to build pressure, and still... nada.

I'm inclining to a stuck injector too... but what is a stuck / locked injectors?

I haven't checked timing or compression, but that shouldn't change since the last time it was run?

Thoughts?

MIKE.