a squirt into cylinders and hand turning will help to get the bores a bit slippery.
thru head will not get any oil into the bores.
maybe take cam covers off and dribble some oil over the cams/buckets as well?
auto, nfi, but seems like good idea![]()
I'm going to turn the 1uz over for the first time in a long time to make sure all is well.
Apart from filling it with oil, along with the auto, is there anything else anyone would recommend i do?
I'm thinking about a little oil down cylinders? Or would that just be over kill if it's been filled through the head?
Also, can you turn the engine over without filling the auto up?
a squirt into cylinders and hand turning will help to get the bores a bit slippery.
thru head will not get any oil into the bores.
maybe take cam covers off and dribble some oil over the cams/buckets as well?
auto, nfi, but seems like good idea![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
also take the spark plugs out then crank it over until the oil pressure light goes out.
Originally Posted by sbfoot
This is the most important thing to do!
www.billzilla.org
Toymods founding member #3
Or just take the ignition lead off.
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Taking the lead off still keeps the cylinder full of compression. You really want the motor to be under as little stress as possible so best to remove the plug's. It's even almost worth turning the motor over by hand half a dozen times first if your super stressed.
If we want to get anal you can preheat the oil aswell.
All i ever did with motors sitting for a while is turn over with no plugs as engine spins faster when it doesnt have compression and its easier to gain oil pressure.
If everything is well, the oil pressure acquired from cranking will be enough to lubricate the bearings and valve train aswell.
Unless you want to fowl plugs, dont bother about pouring oil down cylinders, CRC at the most but definantly not oil, It is un nessacary.
Hrm.
well, I took the cam covers off, put oil down the cylinders and across the valve train, then turned it over by hand a few times.
Once I'd done that, I then, turned it over with the starter a few times, but overcourse it spat oil out the cylinders, was quite funny really, so I had to put the plugs back in
fowling the plugs doesn't matter, the thing doesn't even have fuel yet.
Anyhow, it's all done now.
Thats a little bit to much oil if it is actually spitting it back out !!!! ..
i would recomend removing the plugs again & cranking over for a while until no obvious sign's of oil come out ..
yea i got no oil pressure on the 2jz with plugs in
MX83 2JZ-GTE!!
#YOLO.
No amount of cranking would get oil pressure in my 1UZ.
I had to remove the oil filter and gravity feed oil back up the lines into and the pump. After doing that I had oil pressure.
Same thing happened on my last 1UZ, but I got lazy and just started it instead. Within about 1/2 a sec oil pressure had built up enough to turn the light out. Just needed those extra revs.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Maybe the oil light on the 1uz's have a higher threshold then most?
Anyone know where the stock 1uz oil light is set at?
It still should be supplying some sort of oil pressure, altough probly very low obviously.
Nah, the pump was just completely dry and not pumping anything at such a low rpm.
I removed the oil switch and no oil came out during cranking.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
I should also point out that once you have full pressure from running, every time you go to start the car after that, the oil light will turn off you let go of the key. ie the oil will be up to pressure before the motor has even started.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Bookmarks