Help !!!, 1G + New intake + New Exh. Manif. does not come on boost.

[YelloRolla]

Did you hook the wastegate signal up correctly? With the TiAL gates there are 2 ports (one to the top and one to the bottom of the diaphragm). It must have the bottom one hooked up. If the top one is hooked up, the vacuum could well hold the gate open.

I see that you have a vacuum/boost gauge; what is the vacuum at idle? A largish vacuum leak will frig things right up.

[romelan]

Problem with oil cooler/hoses solved then:

I have checked the wheels on the compressor and turbine and they moves very well.

Removed and sealed the hose that comes from the manifold adapter to the wastegate, all ports are open on the wastegate.

Adjusted one clamp from the throttle body, another at turbo elbow and the clamp at the Blow off valve. I am 99.9% shure that there is no leaks because the idle is not erratic, stay almost the time around 750rpm.

ISC valve operating well, but the one way internal diaphram may be damaged the air is going in both directions (it was tested before assembly, but I do not know what happend...), I have put a similar item, but small in size, beetwen the ISC and the hose that goes to the inlet connector before turbo.

With these last mods. the car response to acceleration is better that few days ago, but the boost does not come !!! the needle go quick from 20Hmg to the black mark previous to 0 PSI but never go into boost.

It is attached a pic (at idle) showing the A/F meter (Lean leds), Fuel Pressure (30psi) and Vaccum/Boost gauge (20Hmg, the hose goes from one small port that is located near the fifth runner, there is medium port going to wastegaste and other going to the blow off)

There is another pic from the SAFCII, it is showing the highest values for REVs (4907rpm), Throttle (85.2%) knock (17) for a hard test in first gear (similar was done in second gear up to 4000rpm).

I have noticed that always the A/F meter shows LEAN leds, never goes to another value (before, usually this moves to NORMAL an goes back) even under high load or hard aceleration. I have checked the voltage from E1 and OX and it is around 0.150 volts at idle. I have stopped the engine and this value was going down up to 0.05 volts, ~10 minutes later. The fact that there is only installed the down pipe (~24inches) but not connected to the rest of the exhaust system is affecting the O2 sensor (damaged) ?

The fuel pressure (normal ~8v) never jump to high pressure, may be because there is no pressure at manifold and due to it, the ECU does not enable the fuel pump relay to supply high voltage (12v) to the fuel pump.

More ideas are wellcome, please...

[romelan]

Incredible !!!

First, I found that the plugs order for injectors was incorrectly installed, first was the brown plug, second, was the gray plug !!!, another mistake, the secuense is gray, brown, gray..., may be due to that, the one way diaphragm inside the ISC failed. When I aspired to check it, a horrendus smell to gasoline was aspirated through my mouth..., obviusly the injector was spraying out of secuense and some times the gasoline was not entering directly to the engine.

Finally, I found the principal cause to not going into boost !!!, I forgot to remove a yellow cloth blocking the AFM when was polishing it (check the picture) in some time this pass thorugh the AFM and reach the compressor turbine...I feel my self, like a lucky man, thanks Good the turbo was not damaged, check the attached videos, the wheels spins freely.

It was 13:00 hrs and the temp was 34deg and sunny on my city, I is ~ hot day.

I made several runs and found that the boost light does not comes on but the Boost meter shows boost and the fuel pump does not go to high pressure until passing 5psi of boost, then the meter shows ~44psi of fuel pressure.

Without any hoses attached to the wastegate the turbo does not stop to build pressure I was scared when I saw the needle showing 11psi fortunatly, then hoses from the down elbow after the turbo was disconected by the pressure and save the engine going to much pressure at high revs.

(without any control) the car was in fourth passing 4300rpm. It is suposed that the Deltagate is setted to ~7psi. Really needs the hose attached to boost connector to work well ?

In first gear at high load the turbo start makes 5psi of boost at 5000rpm

In second gear, running to 2050 rpm and then flooring the gas pedal, the turbo start to make 1psi around 2800rpm but climb slowly up to ~6 psi, after that jump quickly up 12 psi at ~4500rpm

The car does not shows the suddenly acceleration when TVis engage both runners after passing 4000rpm, but feels good and It does not feel a lack of torque when starting or passing (but the turbo is very slow to build pressure comparated to the stocks ct12s), that is suposted to happen when the intake manifold uses a shortered runners. But obviusly is my first real test on the road.

I have a last question, the A/F meter still shows LEAN under any load, what is damaged, A/F or O2 ? I have checked the wires and there is good connection from O2 up to the ECU. do You think that the O2 is too far from turbo (see attached pics for the down pipe) ?

[MR 1JZ]

those autometer AF ratio guages are as usefull as tits on a bull...

i.e. not very useful...

put it on a dyno with a wideband and see if its actually leaning out...

[romelan]

Ja, ja, ja..., may be, but mine (A/F) was working well before the project. I will test it using a battery (1.5v) and a small potentiometer to check if it really working. If the lights moves up and down (0-1v) then the problem is the O2 sensor or may be the location is too far (6.5") from the turbo and this thing is not going enough hot to work well. The elbow junction from both turbos, in stock piece, have less volume and is close to the turbos that the new 3" down pipe, may be because that, stock O2 works at higher temp.

We do not have a dyno... in whole my country, so I am locking for a no to much expensive Wide Band Sensor to tuning the engine before pushing it above 5000rpm and 15-18psi of boost and I will be checking the sparks plugs to read the healthy inside chamber combustion of each cylinder.

[stradlater]

Sorry man, but your a Git for not remembering to remove a cloth.....


Hell, at least you owned up.

[oldcorollas]

Ja, ja, ja..., may be, but mine (A/F) was working well before the project. I will test it using a battery (1.5v) and a small potentiometer to check if it really working. If the lights moves up and down (0-1v) then the problem is the O2 sensor or may be the location is too far (6.5") from the turbo and this thing is not going enough hot to work well. The elbow junction from both turbos, in stock piece, have less volume and is close to the turbos that the new 3" down pipe, may be because that, stock O2 works at higher temp.

We do not have a dyno... in whole my country, so I am locking for a no to much expensive Wide Band Sensor to tuning the engine before pushing it above 5000rpm and 15-18psi of boost and I will be checking the sparks plugs to read the healthy inside chamber combustion of each cylinder.

if you have heated sensor, it will be ok.
buy a wideband from diyautotune.com, they work very well and are about the cheapest ones around.

this sounds just like a certain BMW owner any socks left in the intake?

[romelan]

Problem solved (A/F meter), the O2 sensor needs more temp to works fine (it is heated). I have wraped the down pipe (3"stainless steel) and after a few runs the lights start to go to NORMAL (yellow) when I will put the hood back, I am shure the temp will rise more due less air flow above the engine and the O2 will return to normal operation.

OldCorolla, I was checking diyautotune and found good items, what model have You used or You recommends to map A/F according to RPMs ?