1jz wont rev past ~2500rpm *SOLVED*

[chris davey]

so what was the problem in the end?

[Gavatron]

Factory fuel damper on top of fuel filter

[Hydra]

Yup thats right... it's sitting in a box filled with other junk now

Today, the intercooler hose blew off, which was rather annoying. Oh well, I gotta do other work on the damn thing to get the A/C up and running.

[RObErT_RaTh]

Today, the intercooler hose blew off, which was rather annoying.

Intercooler hose or piping? If piping did it pop out at a silicon joiner? This seems to be common for lots of people with turbos and I just can't understand how it happens if you have flared pipes and good clamps

[woggin]

keywords are :good clamps AND right clamp pressure!

over-tightened clamps are more prone to failure, T clamps work well and only need 50lbs/cm or so, which is really almost nothing!, i say replace clamps!!!

[Hydra]

Yeh not sure where the problem lies yet, I've yet to pull it apart to see where it failed. That joint might have been under a little stress, and probably had a bit of oil on it which wouldn't have helped.

Lucky I have a lot of spare clamps laying around Might use two for extra fail-proofing

[Mos]

Most aftermarket intercooler plumbing uses the clamps to hold portions of the piping, whereas on a factory system the hoses only hold air, because all the pipes are attached to the chassis in some way or another. If you don't subject the hoses to tension, they shouldn't pop off.
Mos.

[Hydra]

Yep - unfortunately mine isn't connected to the chassis at any point along the pipes themselves. Something I need to bracketeer up at some stage to ensure I have no more pipes popping off. They shouldn't be under stress - the hose/pipe popped where I had recently (2 months ago) replaced a badly degraded rubber joint with a new silicone one. Perhaps some oil helped it work loose. Tight spot to work in too. I flared the lip of the pipe this time too to help reduce the chance of it popping off. Seems the person who made the pipes (nfi who - the engine has had a few owners) didn't bother with rolling a nice flare on the pipes. Thankfully my previous pipe work is all flared so it's only half a problem

[hamgatan]

can ya check the washers on the damper.. just for shits and giggles?
does it now have a regular banjo bolt on the fuel rail inlet instead of the damper?

Old thread rehash!

Stu whats the chances you or anyone else has a photo of the washers and the correct way they're supposed to go?

I'm also getting this problem with limp mode. Idle is rough as guts, pops like crazy and just does nothing except misfire repeatedly at 3k rpm.

I've changed Coilpacks, Plugs, Checked Comp, TPS, MAP Sensor, Knock Sensors, Changed ISCV.. ECU is about the only thing I haven't done yet but I want to check the Fuel Damper before I go find myself another ECU..

The part Circled in red is the only bit i disconnected during the conversion.. the Damper itself stayed attached to the block.

[oldcorollas]

i can't remember, but will need to pull mine off shortly.

does one of your washers look like this? (but with less teeth)
http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/p...ock_washer.jpg

[hamgatan]

thats a negative. I think that washer you're referring to is 23270B in the above diagram. I never took apart that part of the FPR.. i just unbolted the fuel input line from the FPR.. and the two washers on that 90430-12026 are just standard Toyota parts..

[takai]

The 90430-12026 are plain jane 12mm copper washers.

[oldcorollas]

i realise that, i was referrring to pic of how the funny washers should go

[oldcorollas]

this..
the fuel goes into the damper from the banjo outer.. one side is larger diameter to allow fuel thru the "slots".. then it goes into damper and comes out thru the middle

[hamgatan]

hmmm i see. is it possible for these to become clogged with shit?