Fuel pump running?
Timing right?
Big intake leak?
Okay, so i have a 1987 Celica which i just had a jap spec Gen1 3SGE put into it and after many weeks of hard labour and silly problems it finally got in and started. but here is where the trouble begins.
it fires up ok and dosn't even sound bad but once you pop the throttle the engine just dies, if you hold it for a sec the engine just stalls but if you very slowly push it it very very slowly will seem to gains revs before ultimately choking again, does anyone have any ideas as to what my problem may be?
I have maticulously gone over the vacuum lines many times and they're correct, replaced the AFM and still nothing.
Last edited by Jester; 24-06-2008 at 03:03 PM.
Fuel pump running?
Timing right?
Big intake leak?
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Tps?..........
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My guess was going to be intake leak, do you have a vacuum guage to check ?
Blocked exhaust?![]()
Two-smoking barrels.
Ecu? giving any codes, does it stall when you unplug the afm , do the revs increase when you unplug the tps
how old is the fuel in the tank
did you change the fuel filter
is the battery charged and alternator working
timing ?
check the dizzy possibly swap with one off your old donk,
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my first guess would have been big f-off intake leak...
but then again theres a couple of things ive come across this week that might also have something to do with it.
is your water temp sensor (EFI) plugged in and working correctly? i thought this wouldnt play a part in anything, till i took it off my soarer and the soarer wouldnt start..and then when i did get it started it would stall and die if i took my foot off the pedal.
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as Stu said, TPS is a very fair shot.
Had a 5S like this once.
Was in dire need of plugs leads etc and ran perfect after that, Well until a BHG made it stop but that was way later.
The plugs and leads new or what came with the motor?
Maybe start with the basics and go from there.
My sig has been pruned as it was over 5 lines long.
All very good ideas and thanks heaps but some i have done, just didn't want to put too much detail to hinder peoples ideas.
As far as i can tell the AFM is fine i thought that was the problem and i got a replacement.
Plugs and leads are all new, platinum plugs and top gun leads.
Fuel was drained and new fuel put in, plenty of pressure so fuel pump working.
Timing is smack on at 10degrees and cams are set right.
umm, Vacuum leak, there's a good one i hadn't thought of, all hoses are pretty much new, where might it be leaking from or would it be a hose your talking about? i thought a vacuum leak would stop the car from even starting as originally all the hoses where plumbed up wrong and that's why it wouldn't fire originally.
Blocked exhaust......dunno how that could happen but will pass the info on to the mech, actually a mate of mine bought a VL turbo about 6 months back and a few weeks ago it shat itself, turbo seized and all kinds of crap, pulled the piping offf and found a rag in the piping wedged in the turbo fins, got no idea how that happens either.
Car not displaying and codes, bridged the two pins in the diagnostic port and the engine light just flashes steady, not intermittent.
Now the TPS i thought was the side bit on the throttle yeah? the electric bit, haven' changed that but it has the original one on and it was working fine before, can i use the one off the imported one? the whole intake is off the old one due to the lack of EGR system from the import throttle body, would it be ok to use the JDM TPS?
Haven't changed the dizzy over but another thing i can try.
ahhh where might i find the water temp sensor?
and i think that's it, thanks heaps guys for all your help so far, this car is my baby and i just want to see it live again
Water temp sensor is located near the thermostat, correct me if I'm wrong anyone.
Blocked exhausts can happen from a failed catalytic converter, ie melted.
I would think that loosening the tps adjustment screw(making a mark first ofcourse) and advancing or retarding it would show a failed TPS. Either that or just disconnect the wiring while the engine is running and see if that affects how the engine is running. I'd check out O2 sensors as well while you are at it, if you've already replaced your AFM.
Sometimes voltages on sensors can be out but still with in parameters not to trip a Check Engine Light.
thanks greywolf, will be headin down to the mechanics bright and early. ahh but first, any idea how much a new O2 sensor would sting me?
I had a new thermostat and new water pump installed on the engine (new thermo before installation, new water pump after installation) could either of the sensors (water and O2) have been affected by these things, i am fairly confident it is a sensor problem so anyone mentioning a sensor at fault has my full attention.
Also been messing with the idle screw already, it reacts fine to the changes in the turns.
at least i think it did, it was ages ago i did that, might try again to be safe
Alrighty, well it's on the water junction on the other end of the engine to the thermostatOriginally Posted by greywolf
As above just disconnect the TPS and see what happens, I've seen gen 1's run with them unplugged before
Vacuum leak... possibly, check the plastic intake pipe for splits, they're notorious for it and aren't easy to spot
Oh and don't worry about o2 sensor just yet, cars will run without them no worries... just use more fuel![]()
I am the sun
dizzy cap and rotor button new?
vacuum leaks eg, are they all plumbed up right, is all the piping on tight, and cracks in the accordion pipe(black intake pipe)
car idles fine?
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