Ucf11 1Uz Toyota Celsior Error Code 13 Help!

[roadkill]

Hi All,

i've just finished changing the timing belt and my car is now throwing up error code 13. It was throwing two others but have since fixed them. It seems to be a little troublesome to start, but when it does it shoots straight up to 1400 revs and as it warms up it comes back down to about 7-800. It doesn't stall or anything, but the code worries me as i think it has to do with it not starting very easy either. I haven't driven it yet as it isn't registered, still need to check brakes etc and refill some fluids.

Any ideas people? Help is much appreciated.

bEn

[dumbass]

200% confident your timing belt is out a tooth
Double check it
Can be a pain to see
If fixed afew have made this mistake
Or u have damaged cam sensor wiring

[roadkill]

Hi,

mate i'm about 400% confident that it's correct! I did it and re-did and re-did and re-did it. I will re-check it though. I didn't get this error before which is what concerns me. I had the tps error and the second ignitor error. Fixed them easy enough.

Any tips though on re-checking it without pulling half of the engine apart (again)

For my guess there could be a higher chance of cam sensor. The crank angle sensor wire i had to re-wire a bit. The P/O has stuffed the plug where it goes onto the sensor, so i soldered in an extra inch so it would reach properly. Could that maybe be what is doing it?

bEn

[dumbass]

ok sounds like it could be the wiring then
i have found not many people can solder properly over the many years
so double check the wiring and how good joint is but fiddly with joint to see if its not properly soldered
maybe check resistance of sensor
did u lengthen the sensor wiring or the sub harness wiring
i would try find a good 2nd hand front sub harness and fix it properly back to std
or if its the sensor and harness that was stuffed then replace that
any join is another place that a problem can occur

[roadkill]

Hi,

thanks for the reply. I wouldn't be surprised if i can't solder well, but i was impressed with the result. One thing though - what is solder like in terms of resistance? Given that this ecu seems to be rather picky when it comes to resistance on sensors could this be enough to have it be out?

Just remembered that i actually cut the wiring just under the cam cover (above the a/c) and ran new wires down to the sensor using the existing terminals. I kept the sheath that went around it to help keep a good uninterrupted signal.

I'll check resistance in the sensor tonight and go from there. Any ideas of what figures i should be looking for?

bEn

[dumbass]

solder has 0 resistance
its just how good its heated up and sucked into the joint
i find most guys twist wires together in a way that makes joint very thick
they sort of have wires parallel then twist ends then spread them apart flat then tape which makes it a thick join
i dont know why people think this is ok

not sure on resistnace ill check my wokrshop manual when i get home

[roadkill]

basically how I do it is I twist it till they hold together, just cos i don't have 3 hands. Heat the wire up from underneath till it is hot enough for the solder to melt down through the wires. Seems to work for me so far.

[George]

Maybe the problem has something to do with sensor shield, if new wires run open too long. Also it's worth to make sure that the shield is well grounded. With insufficient EMI screening , ECU may occasionally pick up ignition pulses instead of sensor reading.

Also, in my area it's not uncommon to break crank sensor gear tooth when doing timing belt

[dumbass]

the shielding should not be grounded in the engine bay
shieldling should only be earthed at one end otherwise u get a loop

thats y shielded wire is always grounded at the ecu end
and goes all the way to cam sensor and stops just befor it
also cam sensor plugs are 2 pin so no shielding in there
cause the shielding stops just before the cam sensor plug

[George]

I can't see any contradiction to the above. I didn't suggest to double ground the shield but recommended to check if there's continuity between it and some ground point.

Since in factory loom shielding stops just before sensor, and roadkill increased wires' length, the two wires apparently run out of shield for a while. This small unshielded length may appear sufficient for picking up noise.

[4th surf]

And the way to fix that is wrap it up in tin foil

[George]

4th surf, that's ok but with some precautions. For example ungrounded shield would make the situation even worse

[roadkill]

Hi,

well, i've now got some time. Anybody know what the timing advance is at idle? I've only found one source and it says -15 at idle. I've gotta pull the balancer off and mark it at 90 deg so i can see if one of my cams is off. I kinda hope it is cos that'll be an easier fix than chasing everything else!!

bEn

[George]

you can get full service manual at http://www.ls400.ru/lexus-89-2000/index.html
I think 1UZ's of the same production year won't differ much across different models

[roadkill]

Hi,

looking through this at the moment, and well wow, it's a bit of a head f%$k! I just wanna know the idle advance. I ****think**** a cam might be out. But the q then is, which one!

bEn