Male 22pin Connector (Cressida) or Toyota pin compatible 20+pin M&F connectors

[takai]

Well i have to rewire the 22pin connector in my cressy, but i dont want to have to do a cut and shut with other connectors, so im after either a source for a 22pin Male connector (female is the body loom) to fit the MX83 ECU plug, or another 20+pin male and female connector which uses Toyota pins.

Oh yeah, and while im at it, does anyone know if you can just buy the crimp terminals, the JZ loom has a couple of smaller pinned wires than the MX83 loom.

[The Witzl]

cut'n'shut it, then move on

Otherwise... go down to a self serve wrecker, find an MX83, find the ECU, open it up, and cut the 22-pin ECU male socket off the PCB.

If you want to make adaptor looms so you can switch between 7M and JZ plugs without rewiring later, then grab the connectors what look like this from just about any Toyota of the late 80s-early 90s era, they are usually all interchangeable (i've only seen 3 different types)

They look like this - you will recognise them

[takai]

Starting to think i might cut and shut.
Been looking through the Farnell cattledog to see if they had any compatible AMP connectors. The only MX83 at the wreckers has already had its ECU taken, so thats a no go.

Dont really want to have to repin the 22pin one, just use a male connector to adapt the JZ loom to it. That being said i might just get a 22pin Molex connector and be done with it.

[takai]

Hm, recognise these:
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/c...9843,46357&N=6

Might be onto something here.

[takai]

Ergh, head hurts, if no-one comes up with a better solution by this afternoon im just going to go get some Narva connectors or something from TrickyDickies and rewire it.

[The Witzl]

hahaha... Tyco supply Toyota with pretty much ALL of the plugs used in their cars.... but just you try and buy ONE.
Tyco electronics are like the Microsoft of the connector world.

Much easier/cheaper to pinch from other cars and solder it up.


Dont you dare use narva connectors, nor go to dickshits.
If you must, type in "PP206" to the search function on Jaycar website.

[takai]

Im figuring the only pins i need off this plug:

are a handful, like IGN, B+ etc.

8way Narva is looking tempting atm. Especially because i just realised (duh, i blame the migrane ive had all morning) that both ends(JZ engine and MX83 Body) are female connectors.

[The Witzl]

From that plug you SHOULD have

• STA - starter
• A/C - a/c clutch
• W - engine check light
• BATT - battery + terminal
• +B / +B1 - EFI main relay power
• NSW - neutral start switch (unless bypassed)

There are a few which confuse me there...

• FPR - wtf is this sposed to be??
• IGN SW - what the???
• SP1 and SP2 - are these speed signals? You might need these

So yeah, i guess an 8-pin connector might do it.
Jaycar now stocks the 2,3,4 and 6pin versions of those standard connectors....
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP2068

[takai]

This is interesting, Im not getting anything through +B and +B1 at all, not with IGN off or on. That said the JZA80 loom has +B in the engine bay, so ill just tap an EFI 30A run for that.

STA isnt giving me anything when turned over to STA on the keybarrel either.

IGN SW is giving me power when keybarrell is set to IGN, cant remember if its STA too.
SP1 and SP2 i assume are speed signals coming back from the dash (mech speedo).

NSW is bypassed elsewhere, so the NSW pin shows 10v (drop somewhere) permanently.

EDIT: Ahh, i needed another of the connectors in to allow the COR to open because it has the bridge for the NSW.

[jzk25]

When I did a JZZ30 engine into an MX83(similiar wiring layout to JZA80) I ended up using only about 6 wires from that plug through a generic narva type connector. Most of the power supplies ended up coming from elsewhere and all the position indicator wiring is in the other body plugs so you are only left with a few in that plug like MREL, W, P,M and SP1. Not sure on your exact setup(NA 2JZ?) so these can vary.

Toyota wiring makes little sense until early 90's. Convoluted wiring and relay layouts to turn things on that the ecu should be turning on via a single pin. *grumble..*

[The Witzl]

stop calling them "narva" connectors!!!!

They are actually "250-series" connectors, as named by Tyco Electronics (who introduced them into automotive use). Another common term is quarter inch connectors, becasue the pins are 1/4" wide.

PLus... the narva ones are sooooo stupidly overpriced (or at least they were when i checked the market about a year ago)

[takai]

Yeah, thats what im finding. Don't need much other than a few power pins, and the sensor wires from the engine to the cluster.

Just have to figure out now which of the 4 wires marked Speed Sensor i need from the body loom.

FWIW: im using Hansa brand ones, which are 2 for $6 for the 6pin ones.

[wilbo666]

Im figuring the only pins i need off this plug:

are a handful, like IGN, B+ etc.

This is interesting, Im not getting anything through +B and +B1 at all, not with IGN off or on. That said the JZA80 loom has +B in the engine bay, so ill just tap an EFI 30A run for that.

STA isnt giving me anything when turned over to STA on the keybarrel either.

IGN SW is giving me power when keybarrell is set to IGN, cant remember if its STA too.
SP1 and SP2 i assume are speed signals coming back from the dash (mech speedo).

NSW is bypassed elsewhere, so the NSW pin shows 10v (drop somewhere) permanently.

EDIT: Ahh, i needed another of the connectors in to allow the COR to open because it has the bridge for the NSW.

Bzz you need a lot of those pins!

• STA = Starter Signal
• A/C = AC On/Off
• SP1 = Dash Speed Signal
• FPR = COR control
• W = check engine light
• M-REL = Output from ECU to switch master relay (The master relay provides the +B, +B1 power to the ECU, this is why you have no power!)
• IGN SW = Ignition switched power
• Batt = constant batt (So ECU can store codes etc)
• +B, +B1 = ECU Switched power (Via Master relay)
• NSW = P/N indicator
• OD1, OD2 = Overdrive ON/OFF signals (from switch and cruise ECU)

+B is meant to be switched via the ECU so that it can leave thing like the ISCV power on so that it can close it after the engine has been shut off. It shouldn't be constant power...

Cheers
Wilbo

[takai]

Bzzz, not on a 2JZ.

ECU pinouts are somewhat different for the 2JZ, especially from the JZA80, with a lot of the main power feeds coming from the engine bay.

+Batt, +B and +B1 all feed from the engine bay.

[wilbo666]

Bzzz, not on a 2JZ.

ECU pinouts are somewhat different for the 2JZ, especially from the JZA80, with a lot of the main power feeds coming from the engine bay.

+Batt, +B and +B1 all feed from the engine bay.

I don't see why you can't tap into +Batt and +Bx for the ECU @ the flying lead plug (Stock body plug) 40 pin ECU connector?

I'm sure 2jzge is different to 2jzgte...but I really would be surprised if +B wasn't switched via M-REL and hence the ECU...



I might go have a look at some diagrams...

Cheers
Wilbo